Whuntmore's Eagle Project - Flicker (Picture heavy!)

[Whuntmore]

Thanks for all that info Dustin, but we are not gonna put in the window, just prep it for the install.  it's $225 installed here, so we're just gonna let the guy do it.  El Matador recommended these guys, and several other suppliers also said these guys do a really good job.

we gotta deal with some rust (no rot) and there's two uneven welds in the top corners (gotta grind them down a bit) and I might have to put some short hair fiberglass to do a bit of fill to even it out.  Or bondo, or whatever.  then some primer, then some paint.  I do know we gotta get the rust completely out. 

So then (from what I've been told), bondo or FG the uneven areas (right to clean metal) then primer, then several thin coats of paint.

[priya]

If the shop is going to install it for you all you need to do is provide a good painted surface for them.  On my Eagle the top corners had body caulking in them to level out the joins and so that was what I put back before the paint went on.  I ordered my windshield about a month and a half ago and hubby sent me an email today saying it finally came in - I was getting worried that they couldn't get one.

[Whuntmore]

Any special type of paint, or just car paint, or tremclad rust paint?  Can it be satin finish, or have to be gloss?  (I'm not going to use any flat type paint)

Also, for the tan/cream outer color, is there a close match in tremclad/Krylon paint?  I know I got rocker paint in cream, and it's sooo close in color, that you wouldn't be able to tell except for the texture.

Thx.

[dustybat13]

Sorry, got a little carried away on that last post. If the rust left craters in the metal, then you should neutralize the rust first. There are many ways to do this, but my dad always used naval jelly. If the rust is just on the surface then you can skip that step and just lightly grind the areas that need filler. after neutralizing the rust you can do a light grinding over the surfaces to be filled. This is to give the filler something to grab on to. A note about grinding: use a flexible fiber disk, or red disk as we always called them, a hard disk will leave notches or valleys in the metal that take extra time to fill and weaken the structure. After that, use the filler of your choice. Let it set, get out the sanding blocks. Sand, fill low spots, sand, fill low spots and on and on. Here's a tip use a coarse sanding paper to sand your filler and then use red putty, or scratch filler on the deep scratches. Then switch to a 180 grit or 220 grit. That will help to minimize the time it takes to step down through all the progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Once you are done, clean the surface with paint thinner, mask off what you don't want to paint and then spray on a good thick primer. Wet sand with 400 or 600 grit paper to get a perfect finish. If any metal shows through, than re-prep and prime and wet sand. When it is just the paint left, use a wax and grease cleaner to get all contaminates off. Last is paint. Too many tips here, so I am going to throw in a good link. There are many good write ups here for a multitude of autobody related projects.
http://www.autobody101.com/content/articles/basics-of-basics/

Good luck!
Dustin

[dustybat13]

There are also some paint tips on this site for using rattle cans. And some paint stores can paint match your car and put it into a rattle can for you. This is not cheap, but it is a good quality paint.

[Whuntmore]

I saw that, and thanks for the website.  I've been reading since you posted it.  Good info to know - Thx Dustin!  egg for that.  I also gotta get some video of the clips and getting the chrome off, as another member asked about that.  So I'm gonna have to shoot some video.

[priya]

Any special type of paint, or just car paint, or tremclad rust paint?  Can it be satin finish, or have to be gloss?  (I'm not going to use any flat type paint)

Also, for the tan/cream outer color, is there a close match in tremclad/Krylon paint?  I know I got rocker paint in cream, and it's sooo close in color, that you wouldn't be able to tell except for the texture.

Thx.

It doesn't matter if the paint you use is satin, gloss, or flat.  The installer will paint the channel with a special black primer that will adhere well to any of them.  Tremclad would be my last choice assuming you have a rust free surface, I don't think it sticks very well, at least to surfaces with any rust on them.  Its been my experience and the opinion of the professional painter who painted my car that rattle can paints are less durable than the paint an autobody shop uses.  Some places can put an autobody paint in a can for you and if you do that you can get the original colour for your car as well.  That'd be my first choice if I were you, but use an etching primer first for good adhesion of the top coat. On the seams in the upper corners although I used body caulking I think fiberglass filler is a better choice.  The body caulking I used didn't seem to have great adhesion so I'm wondering if down the road my car might develop leaks there and I'll be pulling the windhield again to do it over.

[HappyPappy]

Here is an idea that might help removing window glass. I used it on many AMC's to get the glass out. Take a propane torch, small or large, just watch your heat on the larger one, heat the glass all the way around, evenly as possible, then go inside and apply pressure to the inside and gently push it out.  You may want to experiment with an old one so you get the feel of what you have to do. It sure beets using wire  and cutting the crap out of your hands. I mostly used the small hand held propane torches. Too much heat in one spot and you'll have a mess along with a broken glass.

[Whuntmore]

yeah, that would work if it was just the tar stuff, but most of it was silicone.

anyways, it's out now.

[maximus7001]

I have put probably a dozen windshields and rear windows in various cars over the years. The cars ranged from 75-79 novas, 69 camaro ss, 75 Catalina, 79-82 Concords and a few caddys . The best material to install with on these older cars is 9/16 inch butyl rubber on a roll but 1/2 inch will do. This allows the window to float a bit with the body flex that will happen on a vintage car and it never hardens. The Eagle I have now had it's windshield installed with the rigid stuff that is intended for newer cars that use the windshield as part of the structure of the vehicle. Needless to say that it has cracks all over originating from the edges. The guy I got the car from said it cracked like that within weeks of being installed.

Now depending on where you are will determine how easy or hard it will be to get your hands on this stuff. Here in Winnipeg it has been outlawed for the past 10 years but can be found at a places that do conversion vans since they use it for the aftermarket side windows and roof vents.

The last time I needed the stuff all they had in stock was 1/4 inch so I just very carefully doubled it up. That was 4 years ago in a Pontiac Catalina and it is still a perfect seal and will probably remain so for decades.

So if anyone has a line on any of the 9/16 inch butyl rubber stuff then please pm me.

[priya]

The Eagle I have now had it's windshield installed with the rigid stuff that is intended for newer cars that use the windshield as part of the structure of the vehicle. Needless to say that it has cracks all over originating from the edges. The guy I got the car from said it cracked like that within weeks of being installed.

If you check the Eagle service manual Eagle windshields are meant to be installed with urethane, not butyl.  They were done this way from the factory and yes on an eagle the windshield is part of the safety structure of the vehicle in event of a rollover and for that reason urethane is required.   If your eagle had cracks in the windshield that was due to some other problem with the installation, not the use of the factory required urethane.

[68AMXGOPAC]

Great thread Man !! May I ask where you got the new brake drums
Some real ingunity and perserverance with that plastic weld work . Egg2U.

[Whuntmore]

Great thread Man !! May I ask where you got the new brake drums
Some real ingunity and perserverance with that plastic weld work . Egg2U.

Thanks for the kind words.  The plastic welding took a bit of research, but I got it done.  It's good to know we can repair those items considering how easy they are to break, and the fact you can't order them.

I got the new drums at a car supplier.  One of the guys in our AMC chapter has a Car parts store.  He got them in.  Other then that, I couldn't tell you. 

[Whuntmore]

Got all the rear tail lights all replaced and everything done in the back



I know the picture doesn't really show anything, but it's done back there.  Then I got it all put back together



Then got the windshield area all cleaned up, and filled, and primed



Then we started painting that area (we are using plastic to cover up the open area - seats, dash area, etc)


it's gonna need several more coats of paint.

Then between drying times, (putty or paint) I started putting the dash together,


It's gonna take a bit more time, but I'm hoping to have it all back on by the end of the weekend.

[83Eagle!]

Nice work.  Keep the updates coming.