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Whuntmore's Eagle Project - Flicker (Picture heavy!)

Started by Whuntmore, October 18, 2010, 01:50:52 AM

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0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Whuntmore

#180
Finally!  I got the bipass done, and got the 2150 on.

There was a bit of sputtering at the first (just like ya'll said) but on a 35 minute drive up the highway, man, did it clear up fast.  Dean and I went to PnP and we were there for about an hour.

She started great, and drove great.  I don't think the gas gauge moved for the 40 minute drive home.




Here's a quick video of the carb, and the bypass:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f48K1HkeNQM

maximus7001

I am going to be doing this swap as well. How much bigger of an air cleaner would fit? I was thinking about this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1203/
1968 Javelin SST 290
1981 Concord DL sedan, vintage red metallic (now parts car)
1985 Eagle wagon, same colour as the concord (project car/daily driver)
1997 GMC Safari SLT AWD (full time 4x4) G-80 LSD

Whuntmore

From Gronk's post:

ANY standard 4bbl (5 1/8" throat) air cleaner will fit this carb.  Make sure it will clear the fuel bowl vent tube AND THE BRAKE BOOSTER!!

Personally, I would go with a shorter (from top to bottom), and bigger around air cleaner, then the one that it comes with.  It hits the top of that 'blanket' that protects the underside of your engine bonnet.  It will actually indent it.

maximus7001

What I was concerned about is clearance around the circumference. As in will it conflict with the master cylinder or valve cover? Also the cleaner I linked to looks alot better.
1968 Javelin SST 290
1981 Concord DL sedan, vintage red metallic (now parts car)
1985 Eagle wagon, same colour as the concord (project car/daily driver)
1997 GMC Safari SLT AWD (full time 4x4) G-80 LSD

GRONK

Just note the lack of space between the air cleaner and the brake booster.  Remember, the engine will "move" too and the booster is mounted solid.  I have tried just about every style and size I can cram under the hood and the SPECTRE air cleaners (that I included) work the best of all.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

Whuntmore

I'm still having 'knock/pinging' issues no matter where I time this car to.  I've tried everything between 4-13 BTDC.

I've done a video on the plumbing, I'm hoping one of you will see it, and tell me what I/Pat/we did wrong.

The video is only 2 minutes long. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uR3OeAPVlk

Gil-SX4

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Enlist in the Texas Arm Forces.



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     one Nation under God, indivisible, With Liberty and Justice for all."


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1983 AMC Eagle SX/4
1985 Chevrolet C-10 Silverado
1995 Ford Aspire
1978 Ford Bronco


Murphy's Law
"If there are two or more ways to do something, and one of those ways can result in a catastrophe, then someone will do it".

Whuntmore

#187
Quote from: Gil-SX4 on September 19, 2011, 12:54:12 AM
What gasoline are you using?

Regular gas from a Shell gas station  - Shell gas is supposed to be pretty decent.  octane rating IIRC is 87.


GRONK

Try an 89 but it might not be pinging.  Exhaust leak will sound like a knock.  The smaller the leak, the louder the knock.  There isn't a washer sitting on top of one of your pistons is there.  Been there done that.  Check your plugs for damage too.  Don't adjust timing around a knock.  Adjust timing where it should be and find/fix the knock
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

Whuntmore

Quote from: GRONK on September 19, 2011, 10:22:30 AM
Try an 89 but it might not be pinging.  Exhaust leak will sound like a knock.  The smaller the leak, the louder the knock.  There isn't a washer sitting on top of one of your pistons is there.  Been there done that.  Check your plugs for damage too.  Don't adjust timing around a knock.  Adjust timing where it should be and find/fix the knock

besides changing gas, I wouldn't know where to start...  I've been trying to read up on possible solutions.

milliard431

Quote from: Whuntmore on August 14, 2011, 08:58:31 PM
I didn't sandblast that, or the back of the rim.  I used a wire wheel on the bead.  I wanted it smooth - I didn't care how good they look as long as the tire don't leak in around the bead.

Basically I only sandblasted the face of the rim.
what grit/product did you use on the sand blasting? Are you having them polished or powder coated? I have a set that needs work.

Whuntmore

used glass to sandblast them (I think we used fine), Not having them polished or powder coated.  Actually, I didn't know you could powder coat in clear. 

I got some clear rim paint (clearcoat) and I did them myself.

They are on the car now.


milliard431


Whuntmore

Quote from: milliard431 on September 20, 2011, 04:56:13 PM
did you post a pic of them finished?



Several times.  Go back to page 13 (of this post) and check it out.

Whuntmore

Quote from: GRONK on September 19, 2011, 10:22:30 AM
Try an 89 but it might not be pinging.  Exhaust leak will sound like a knock.  The smaller the leak, the louder the knock.  There isn't a washer sitting on top of one of your pistons is there.  Been there done that.  Check your plugs for damage too.  Don't adjust timing around a knock.  Adjust timing where it should be and find/fix the knock

That's one of the problems, I don't know where the timing IS supposed to be.   According to your info, My timing should be about 13 degrees BTDC.

My EGR has been crimped off, so I'd have to get a new one in order to put it back into service (which is supposed to be one fix for engine knock)

My Spark plugs are fine (I had them out recently to re-gap them) but they are those 4 electrode ones (with the cross in them).

The knock only occurs when I floor it (under heaviest load) 

So I don't know what else to do.

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