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Whuntmore's Eagle Project - Flicker (Picture heavy!)

Started by Whuntmore, October 18, 2010, 01:50:52 AM

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0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

priya

My husband says that on most tachs there's a very big change in frequency between 4, 6, and 8 and its a hard switch to change from one to the other.  He says the screw in the back may just be a trimmer to handle small changes to fine tune the tach, particularly if you switch distributors, an HEI for example will probably have a slightly different frequency than a Ford style.  He says AMC might be different, but I'll try to have a look in the Technical Service Manual later on and see if it says anything.

Whuntmore

After my conversation with the seller, (and what he said) it made more sense that the AMC eagle tach, is a common, adjustable tach over a few different engines (considering their keeping costs as low as possible)...  So it made perfect sense that the one tach would serve for both engines.

Maybe that's why the eagle tach is soo prone to failing. 

but, I could be wrong. 

Let me know if you find anything to the contrary.

Sunny

I've had aftermarket tach's that had a switch at the back for 4/6/8. Mine was an actual switch though, not a screw turn... but it's definitely possible to have it a multi engine tach.

priya

The Technical Service Manual doesn't say anything about the differences between tachs for 4,6, and 8 cylinder engines, it says very little at all with the possible exception of the lines:

"Tachometers are not adjustable.  Replace if defective."

I'm not sure in what sense they mean not adjustable, but maybe its referring to adjusting the rpm indicated for a given frequency received which would mean one can't adjust a 4 cylinder tach to work on a 6 cylinder motor and so on.

Sunny

Quote from: priya on July 02, 2011, 08:24:58 PM
The Technical Service Manual doesn't say anything about the differences between tachs for 4,6, and 8 cylinder engines, it says very little at all with the possible exception of the lines:

"Tachometers are not adjustable.  Replace if defective."

I'm not sure in what sense they mean not adjustable, but maybe its referring to adjusting the rpm indicated for a given frequency received which would mean one can't adjust a 4 cylinder tach to work on a 6 cylinder motor and so on.

it probably means that if the tach is off [say by 200RPM] there is no adjustment to correct it.

I've seen some older speedometers that can be adjusted [say at idle it should read 0 and reads under or over.. you can adjust it]. So maybe it's just saying the tach does not have that feature?

priya


Sunny

Quote from: priya on July 02, 2011, 09:03:35 PM
Your guess is as good as mine, Sunny.

Yeah. I'm just completely guessing haha.

Smitch

#172
I think it was determined a few years back that the tachs are engine specific. That's why I asked in the first place.
If you can get it to work on a six cylinder please let me know how you did it so I can archive the info.

I tried to do a search but it seems that most everything back past 2010 is gone.

Whuntmore

I mean if it doesn't work, it doesn't matter anyways, 'cause it's the wrong tach anyways, so what difference is it gonna make if I try to adjust it?

And if it does work, well, it will be like Smitch said, it will be a really good write up for the Eaglepedia.

My other tach is shot, this one is the wrong one, so who cares?

I'll keep ya all posted regardless, I'm just surprised no one hasn't tried it yet...

GRONK

I haven't read throught he entire thread yet but Tachs are cyl specific.  Some have a switch on the back (some have it inside) where you can switch it from 4-6-8 but most do not.  I have a few universal tachs that have an external switch for doing this.  They will still read on the incorrect application but will noy be accurate.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

Whuntmore

#175
well, I haven't posted in a while, but I thought I'd update this.

I now have a set of winter tires (complete on jeep rims).  The rims have been cleaned up, and powered coated (according to El Matador)  the tires are those Nokian Hakkapeliitta R's.  Not studded, but still they're like brand new, like only maybe a few hundred miles driven on them (so like 99% tread on them) and the rims are perfect.

here's a pic of all 4 tires:



and a better look at a single tire:




Now here's the Summer tires I also got at "Crazy Dean's Discount Parts Emporium"





They just need to be put onto rims.  I also got the rims from him as well.

Whuntmore

I sure hope so! 

I've got the NP129 off the tranny of my first donor car (it was down at Mechanic's here on the forums), and I'm hoping to have that rebuilt before summer is out.

Maybe after that, rear end done.  Then tranny.

Once all those have been done, it's gonna be Stroker time.  I'll probably do a budget or mid stroker.  4.5 L  with some decent numbers on it.   I don't care about huge HP, or mudding...  I want good fuel mileage for long tours down the highway.

Whuntmore

finally got the rims off of Dean (El Matador) and took them to Keith's to have them sandblasted.

they're not perfect, but they look alot better.  I still need to clear coat them, and Hopefully I can get them mounted up soon.


Before:



After:


maximus7001

That wheel is lookin pretty good. How did the bead surface turn out?
1968 Javelin SST 290
1981 Concord DL sedan, vintage red metallic (now parts car)
1985 Eagle wagon, same colour as the concord (project car/daily driver)
1997 GMC Safari SLT AWD (full time 4x4) G-80 LSD

Whuntmore

I didn't sandblast that, or the back of the rim.  I used a wire wheel on the bead.  I wanted it smooth - I didn't care how good they look as long as the tire don't leak in around the bead.

Basically I only sandblasted the face of the rim.

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