Whuntmore's Eagle Project - Flicker (Picture heavy!)

[Sunny]

Yeah. I was really holding off..
I got it 50% off on sale though.. just my luck It ended up being like.. 50$ more than a new Taylor, when it's normally over twice the price.

The Taylor worked great, while it worked.. but it started having problems within about 7 months.. and by 8 months it was completely fried... I took it apart and noticed they cheaped out on certain parts....
I checked the MSD out before I bought it, and it's solid..so.. cross my fingers? I dropped it in, and it fired right up, so I'm hoping for the best haha.

On the otherhand, I've found Taylor WIRES work amazing. I definitely had more spark through them than the MSD wires that were on my dad's car. [We swapped one of each wire on to mines and tested it just for fun.] I've read MSD wires have a lot higher resistance, and result in a bit lower spark output.. I didnt use a multimeter or anything, so there could be no truth to that..I just judged based on how bright the spark was from my spark tester.

[Whuntmore]

I rarely shop on Evilbay.  The only time I've bought anything off evilbay is something I couldn't get anywhere else  - Actually I've only ever bought one thing off a seller... ever.

I got the dist. cap at a AMCA members car parts store, and the Accel coil I just bought (exactly like the one here) I had to get at a performance shop.

[Sunny]

I love E-bay. You can find some great deals if you check often.
I managed to get a set of headers that a shop here wanted almost 1000$ for, for 200$, shipped to my door. I was the only bidder. They were slightly used, but the guy said they were too loud so he took them off.

I had to fight with him a little to send them to me though.. He was apparently expecting around 600$ for them.. and it cost him 144$ to ship them to Canada..So he only made like 56$..so he was really unhappy I was the only bidder.. but I did get them, so I call it a victory.. hah

[Whuntmore]

that's cool...

Well, we got it running.  The coil was fried.  Actually, it was fried so perfectly, that it had damm near the same ohms that it should new... that was confusing...

So I put the new coil on, and bang, she started up first click of the key.   Now Pat just needs a T-35 Torx head, to get out one of those bolts holding the coil onto the block, and she should be ok.

Thanks again for all the help.

[GRONK]

Suggestion, run a 12V ceramic resistor to trhe + side of your coil wiring.  It will help regulate the voltage and save your coil(s) from burning out.  I always use a stand alone resistor for the HEI swap and I've never had one burn up (yet)

[Whuntmore]

Suggestion, run a 12V ceramic resistor to trhe + side of your coil wiring.  It will help regulate the voltage and save your coil(s) from burning out.  I always use a stand alone resistor for the HEI swap and I've never had one burn up (yet)

do you have a pic of this steup?  any part numbers for this resistor?  What kind or type?

[GRONK]

Mount to something metal because it will get hot!  

http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/store_product_detail.cfm?Product_ID=3955&Category_ID=2&Sub_Category_ID=29

Product info:

1947-55 Ignition Resistor 12V
Part Number: AD-475-IR
12 volt ballast resistor is used when your 12 volt coil does not have one built in.

[Whuntmore]

I've edited your post, and posted the product number and page to find it.

Thanks for the much needed info Gronk.

[Whuntmore]

it's been awhile since I really did any work to the car - I've pretty much been enjoying it like I should.

But I found someone who was selling a brand new (NOS) gauge! (system, package, whatever)




check out the odometer:




I'm considering winding the odometer to the proper mileage, so I'll need my dremel, and my flex cord, or another speedo cable to do it.

I've tried taking an old one apart to do it manually, but it's just to fidgety....

[Smitch]

Is that tach adjustable according to the number of cylinders?

[El Matador]

Is that tach adjustable according to the number of cylinders?

I've never personally tried it (yet), but I believe it is.  There's a hole in the back and what appears to be a potentiometer, so a small screwdriver can be stuck in to turn it.

The tach pictured here is factory calibrated for a 4 cylinder.

[68AMXGOPAC]

Dude , I have one of those , and one in Mph too. That s sweet. How did you find out if it was for a 4cyl. or a 6cyl ? I didn't think to ask when I got mine. I got the Kph one thinking someday someone here might be looking for one.

[Whuntmore]

I think they are for either/or - I was told you can adjust them for either a 6 or a 4 cyl.

There's a little piece of tape on the back of the tach, and you put another tach on the car, and you adjust it, till it's right on.

[priya]

Dude , I have one of those , and one in Mph too. That s sweet. How did you find out if it was for a 4cyl. or a 6cyl ? I didn't think to ask when I got mine. I got the Kph one thinking someday someone here might be looking for one.

The one's I have are stamped on the back with "6 cyl".  I know the V8 ones are stamped "8 cyl" so I presume the 4 cylinder ones are stamped "4 cyl".

[Whuntmore]

it's stamped "4 cyl" on the back.

I was told you can adjust the 'pot' in the back, between 4 and 6 cyl engines.  From what I understand, that's all they do. 

It's the same tach for both cars, it's just adjusted differently, stamped for which number of cyl's it's adjusted for, and shipped off.  It's not like a company would buy two separate tach's for two different motors, when they can buy one type tach, and be able to adjust it for either motor.

You can use two tach's, re-set the one I've got here while comparing it to the 'Second tach', and it should be good.