I'm trying to not get too technical without leaving out info this guy or his mechanic should have.
The speedometer adaptor you need costs 122 dollars at the Hesco site. It costs about 30 dollars everywhere else. I'm using a 1991 YJ adaptor. Those had a 4.0 and a mechanical speedo.
Yeah, there are
definitely a couple of items that the "full-price complete HESCO kit" has in it that you could get elsewhere cheaper. I bought my MPI kit directly from HESCO without the intake manifold. I probably should have had them also remove the speed sensor and the fuel lines that come with the kit. I also could have just used a Jeep CPS, since I'm using an external slave AX-15 Jeep bellhousing and correct Jeep 4.o flywheel for my particular drivetrain swap. I didn't feel like peeling the CPS sensor wiring out of the HESCO harness location to return it to the stock Jeep location on the bellhousing, so I went with the HESCO crank sensor pulley, which needed a spacer to allow me to install it onto the nose of my 4.2 crank. HESCO now offers this spacer, but I turned one for mine on my lathe.
Our Eagles have the fuel line leading to the fuel pump located on the passenger side of the car, so the HESCO fuel line kit, which is designed for Jeep CJ/YJ, is worthless on my Eagle. I have had to bend a new fuel line that crosses over under the engine above the front crossmember and use some corner-parts-store fuel rail disconnects. I'm not finished with the new fuel line, since I need to make a tubing bead tool or find someone who has one, since stainless tubing doesn't flare with the usual tubing flare kit available. Its too hard. For the return line, theirs runs way past where it needs to go to connect to the stock Eagle fuel return, so neither line from the HESCO kit seems necessary for an Eagle. Coulda saved some money there and bought the tubing bead tool, which is around $130. I'm making my own tool, now.
Back on topic, I figure you might appreciate a pic of the engine bay on my unfinished Eagle project with the HESCO MPI stuff installed.
For all you gearheads, the ridicuLIST of parts I threw together : My block is the original 4.2L, bored 0.020 over, with a forgotten brand/spec of performance cam for the 4.o, a 4.o head from Clearwater Cylinder Heads(just their standard head, they now offer a performance upgrade with larger stainless valves), and I ported and polished the head myself, intake and exhaust are port-matched. The cam and lifters are for a 4.o-application, but I recall having to measure for custom pushrods, since I installed a set of Yellaterra roller rockers, and the valvespring seats were machined for bigger springs, er somethin like that(built over 3 years ago and still haven't gotten it back together to run, so I've forgotten some stuff). The intake is a '99 and up Jeep 4.o "equal length runner" manifold with FAST(not Accel, like I had listed earlier) 21lb/hr injectors, a 60mm throttle body, and HESCO's adjustable fuel pressure regulator, while the exhaust is a used/repaired/modified Renix non-HO 4.o log-style manifold with the EGR port removed and the exit turned away from interfering with the front axle and its associated brackets. The fuel rail is for a '95 4.o, since the one that came with the '99 intake didn't have a fuel return line, and I didn't buy HESCO's returnless fuel pump setup. Since I decided to use the '99 intake, I went with a mid-'90s 4.o serpentine setup medley, starting with a Be-Cool XJ water pump, XJ power steering pump, XJ AC pump and brackets from a 4-cylinder XJ to eliminate the extra idler that the XJ 4.o brackets have, and a Nippondenso/Chrysler non-internally-regulated alternator. I could have added the wiring to the HESCO/MOPAR computer to control the alternator, but found it much easier to just use a mid 70's Dodge voltage regulator to control it. In order to use the mid-90s XJ serpentine setup, I had to use the correct Chrysler-Jeep timing cover, not my stock 4.2's cover, since the bracket would have required spacers. I also had to drill out the threads in a couple of bolt hole locations in the AMC 4.2 block to allow bolts for the Chrysler setup to pass through where AMC had bolts thread to the block. You cannot mix AMC serpentine accessories woth MOPAR/Chrysler serpentine accessores - the pulleys are offset differently between each setup(I planned originally on using the accessories from an '86 AMC 2.5L XJ serpentine setup, but you can't mix n match AMC with Chryco serpentine). I plan on using a mid 90's Ford Taurus SHO dual-fan electric setup on the radiator. The starter is for a 4.o HO XJ/TJ with the external slave bellhousing. - that about sums up the engine build. I shoulda built a stroker!
I just recently got around to mounting the fuel pump near the tank, and have a few things to finish up on the fuel lines, and need to fabricate a exhaust to allow me to finally get this thing started. I'm glad I emptied the fuel tank and Sta-Bil-fogged it, and also fogged the engine, and capped eveything for its two-year timeout. I'll have to pull the distributor to prime the engine before I can crank it, and my warranties on everything from my engine to my transmission have long-since expired. I never should have let it sit so long, but, what the hey.
Topic: New 4.2 or new 4.0? (Read 33878 times)