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Author Topic: New 4.2 or new 4.0?  (Read 33849 times)

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Offline shaggimo

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #45 on: February 08, 2012, 08:38:19 AM »
I just found a 99 and 2000 jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 with the engine for sale for $850. Because its low miles, 54k I think, and cheap because it's wrecked that it would come with all the accessories/wiring harness, it's an automatic 4x4, would this work as a bolt in? I wanna keep my T5.

Not to throw another hitch in this, but, I'd avoid the later 97+ models, they are much different than the earlier ones, harness systems and layout (my 97 was a pain in the arse when it came time to strip the efi out of it). They are no fun to work with. Being that you want to keep it a 5 speed, you could find a cherokee with a 4.0/5 speed combo, (again 93+ would be the best options)  and swap the whole thing.
A) You get a better strength  tranny that will handle much more stress than your T5.
B) you wouldn't have to buy a aftermarket crank sensor kit.
The issue, you would have to have your mech fab a crossmember for you, and likely have driveshafts made. Again this is just another option, both tougeagle, and txjeeptx put ax15's (cherokee 5 speed) in their eagles, touge has a nice write up on here about what he needed to do.
88 xj cherokee- ((4)(4))2
81 malibu 4dr- Identity Crisis
81 SX4- gf's
84 Eagle 4dr sedan- it followed me home... ::)
http://www.cardomain.com/id/Oldsmoletic
CNY

Offline captspillane

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #46 on: February 08, 2012, 01:17:45 PM »
A camshaft has lobes on it that push against tiny cylinders called lifters. They in turn push up on a "pushrod" that is shaped like a huge straw. Inside the lifter is a tiny spring and mini oil pump. As the camshaft turns the lifter fills with oil and pumps that oil through the pushrod and then sprays it up on the top of the engine. A lifter has a very smooth bottom that is said to mate to the camshaft, so you're supposed to replace the lifters at the same time you replace a camshaft. Its also a very good idea to replace them because they are an important part of the oiling system inside the engine. Your original lifters probably have tired springs inside them that no longer put out the same amount of oil they used to.

I would not bother using a dyno. All you need to know is if the engine has the proper compression in each cylinder. Your mechanic can tell you that if you bring him the engine in a pickup truck. I also would not bother replacing the camshaft if you get a 4.0. It will already have a respectable camshaft, lifters, and head as is. I do have a 258 with Hesco MPI kit and it works great in terms of starting and smooth idle. It just doesn't have the power and fuel efficiency it should because of the poor head and camshaft. There really is a very small difference between the engine choices.

With the T5 you need to use your original flywheel. A 4.0 has a thinner flywheel with notches in it that tell the computer which cylinder is ready to have fuel sprayed into it. The Hesco kit is a special harmonic balancer on the front of the engine made with those same notches, so that you no longer need to have a 4.0 flywheel for MPI to work. Its expensive and they are also prone to breaking because they have a fragile "hall sensor" (an electronics term) right there on the front of the engine instead of inside the top of the bell housing. Hall sensors are also very sensitive to distance, so you need to adjust the bracket once in awhile if it gets bumped. The engine cannot run without the crank sensor. Thats why Hesco offers a trail kit that includes a spare sensor and a spare fuel pump.

Today I purchased a brand new speed sensor for a 1991 YJ at autozone. It is identical to the one Hesco sells for 122 and it cost 70 dollars there. A used one can be purchased for about 30 dollars if you can find one.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2012, 01:20:42 PM by captspillane »
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline captspillane

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #47 on: February 08, 2012, 01:41:30 PM »
Yes you can use an automatic XJ as a donor. A manual XJ is much more desireable however. First the manual XJ will come with an AX15, which is much stronger and smoother than your T5 and it uses the thinner 4.0 flywheel with notches that eliminates the need for the 350 dollar Hesco kit. It takes alot of work to install one, however, so I advise you to keep it simple and stick with your T5.

The automatic computer and the manual computer are exactly the same. The wiring harness is not, however. There is a single wire that gets grounded when the car is in park, telling the computer that it is safe to start. That single wire is permaneantly grounded on the manual car because its not needed. If you use an automatic donor car you will need to find that wire and ground it yourself. I'll be doing this soon, but haven't done it yet. There are descriptions online.

Any 4.0 will come with a flywheel or flexplate that you don't need. You will remove them and bolt on your original flywheel. If its a manual it will have a pilot bearing that needs to be removed. An automatic will be bare and ready to accept your T5 pilot bearing. If its an automatic, the flexplate bolts will be too short for your thick flywheel, but you can reuse your 258 bolts just fine. Its a good idea to replace flywheel bolts, but plenty of us have reused them without a problem.

Do not get a newer XJ. Stick to the 1991 to 1996 version. The Hesco kit is based on the 1992 version because that had the best head casting and the most power of all the years. The newer heads restricted the flow to meet government regulations. They also changed the wiring harness and the AC pump to no longer be easily compatible with our Eagle. Most if not all the available resources online is based on the early stuff, so you'll be without that valuable help. Txjeeptx used a newer intake manifold because he knew that it was slightly better and easily compatible, but he otherwise used older stuff.
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline captspillane

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #48 on: February 09, 2012, 02:18:12 AM »
Score! I just found the speed sensor we need on the evil bay new for 28.03 (buy it now, more than 10 available, free shipping). In comparison Autozone wants 70 and Hesco wants 122 dollars. Helpful search terms to find what you want include the words "new" "speed" "sensor" "transmission" "vehicle" "Dodge" and "Dakota".

The same one was used on 88-93 Dodge Dakotas as well as 91 to 93 YJ's. The Speed Sensor has an input and an output. It screws into the CJ style transfer case adaptor that is also used in a 1992 XJ. The XJ speed sensor is nearly identical except that it doesn't have the threads and hole for the mechanical speedometer.

The first picture shows the YJ speed sensor I'm talking about. The second pic, in the middle, shows the 92 XJ version that does not have the hole or threads in the center (to be honest it shows a Dodge speed sensor that’s nearly identical). Later XJ’s replaced this two piece design with a one piece electronic only design.

Option 1: Mount it directly on the back of your Speedo using a brass adaptor to go from tiny threads to big threads. It’s tight but this keeps everything else stock. “Tougeagle” used this method in his popular write-up.

Option 2: Mount it on the firewall, have original speedo cable go to it, then an International Scout upper speedometer cable which is only about 2 feet long go from that to your speedo cluster. Scouts had some doohicky on the firewall that interrupted the speedo cable just like this does.

Option 3: Get a common 92 XJ adaptor that plugs into the side of the transfer case. Thread this 91 YJ speed sensor into it. Get a 91 YJ mechanical speedo cable (threaded at both ends) to go from your dash to the speed sensor on your transfer case.

Option 4: Combine option 2 and 3. This is my choice and my recommendation. You use a YJ mechanical speedometer cable instead of the original Eagle Speedometer cable. Screw one end of the speedo cable directly into the XJ transfer case adaptor and the other end into the speed sensor mounted in a convenient spot under the hood. I’ll have the short Scout cable to go from the speed sensor to my dash. This keeps all electronic junk organized inside the hood.

Option 5: Eliminate the mechanical speedometer totally by modifying an XJ speedo to fit into the Eagle dash. I included a picture of the dash I’m making for my main car with an XJ tachometer and Speedo.

The last three options are the best in my opinion because you can just unscrew the speedo cable and leave the transfer case fluid alone if you’re just removing the transmission to work on something else. It’s a mess to deal with popping that stupid integrated speedo cable out of the transfer case all the time. All Jeep transfer cases are interchangeable if you upgrade later, so you’ll only have to buy these parts once.







« Last Edit: February 09, 2012, 03:13:36 AM by captspillane »
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline captspillane

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #49 on: February 09, 2012, 02:52:47 AM »
Here's the whole two piece design. Only the speed sensor and the colored gears are available new. I'll be getting the middle piece from an XJ because they are much more common than a YJ.

Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline carnuck

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #50 on: February 09, 2012, 12:45:14 PM »
Hahahaha  :hello2:
Ya It's definitely a lot but I'm grateful for it! Seems like every answer brings two questions, but that's ok;)

So do you all think that getting a 4.0 engine, installing a better cam, getting the mpi done, and getting the new exhaust manifold(eventually I'd like to do dual setup) is the fastest, probably cheapest option with the least amount labor?

Keeping in mind all the extras I'd have to do if I stayed with the 4.2, installing the mpi either way, and assuming that all the components bolt over to the 4.0 with the exception of the exhaust?

Right now I have a 1981 eagle with shift on the fly, it handled GREAT in the snow up here in Seattle so I think I'll keep that the way it is. I haven't even thought about new gears in the rear and really have no idea what I have. I can squeak the tires in first no problem and I can squeak em going from first to second easy. Although there does seem to be some wheel hop in the rear in the lower gears if I don't shift just right when it's in 2wd.
 
Initially I just want it to be a great road warrior and I'll take it off-road, trails, and hill climbing occasionally. When I upgrade to a solid front then I'll put in a new tc but still will prob want something that can operate in 4high on dry pavement with an air locker option.

I'm planning to assemble my 4.6L stroker in a couple weeks (while I'm still unable to work and recuperating from getting the rest of my teeth yanked) after I organize my shed so I can get in and move about.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline carnuck

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #51 on: February 09, 2012, 12:48:25 PM »
Score! I just found the speed sensor we need on the evil bay new for 28.03 (buy it now, more than 10 available, free shipping). In comparison Autozone wants 70 and Hesco wants 122 dollars. Helpful search terms to find what you want include the words "new" "speed" "sensor" "transmission" "vehicle" "Dodge" and "Dakota".

The same one was used on 88-93 Dodge Dakotas as well as 91 to 93 YJ's. The Speed Sensor has an input and an output. It screws into the CJ style transfer case adaptor that is also used in a 1992 XJ. The XJ speed sensor is nearly identical except that it doesn't have the threads and hole for the mechanical speedometer.

The first picture shows the YJ speed sensor I'm talking about. The second pic, in the middle, shows the 92 XJ version that does not have the hole or threads in the center (to be honest it shows a Dodge speed sensor that’s nearly identical). Later XJ’s replaced this two piece design with a one piece electronic only design.

Option 1: Mount it directly on the back of your Speedo using a brass adaptor to go from tiny threads to big threads. It’s tight but this keeps everything else stock. “Tougeagle” used this method in his popular write-up.

Option 2: Mount it on the firewall, have original speedo cable go to it, then an International Scout upper speedometer cable which is only about 2 feet long go from that to your speedo cluster. Scouts had some doohicky on the firewall that interrupted the speedo cable just like this does.

Option 3: Get a common 92 XJ adaptor that plugs into the side of the transfer case. Thread this 91 YJ speed sensor into it. Get a 91 YJ mechanical speedo cable (threaded at both ends) to go from your dash to the speed sensor on your transfer case.

Option 4: Combine option 2 and 3. This is my choice and my recommendation. You use a YJ mechanical speedometer cable instead of the original Eagle Speedometer cable. Screw one end of the speedo cable directly into the XJ transfer case adaptor and the other end into the speed sensor mounted in a convenient spot under the hood. I’ll have the short Scout cable to go from the speed sensor to my dash. This keeps all electronic junk organized inside the hood.

Option 5: Eliminate the mechanical speedometer totally by modifying an XJ speedo to fit into the Eagle dash. I included a picture of the dash I’m making for my main car with an XJ tachometer and Speedo.

The last three options are the best in my opinion because you can just unscrew the speedo cable and leave the transfer case fluid alone if you’re just removing the transmission to work on something else. It’s a mess to deal with popping that stupid integrated speedo cable out of the transfer case all the time. All Jeep transfer cases are interchangeable if you upgrade later, so you’ll only have to buy these parts once.









91 only XJ has a 1 piece with passthrough sensor and cable attachment (I have one on my shelf for the '93 Grand Cherokee AW4/Rubicon NV241 4:1 transfercase combo I'm putting in my J10.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline carnuck

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #52 on: February 09, 2012, 12:51:41 PM »
Yes you can use an automatic XJ as a donor. A manual XJ is much more desireable however. First the manual XJ will come with an AX15, which is much stronger and smoother than your T5 and it uses the thinner 4.0 flywheel with notches that eliminates the need for the 350 dollar Hesco kit. It takes alot of work to install one, however, so I advise you to keep it simple and stick with your T5.

The automatic computer and the manual computer are exactly the same. The wiring harness is not, however. There is a single wire that gets grounded when the car is in park, telling the computer that it is safe to start. That single wire is permaneantly grounded on the manual car because its not needed. If you use an automatic donor car you will need to find that wire and ground it yourself. I'll be doing this soon, but haven't done it yet. There are descriptions online.

Any 4.0 will come with a flywheel or flexplate that you don't need. You will remove them and bolt on your original flywheel. If its a manual it will have a pilot bearing that needs to be removed. An automatic will be bare and ready to accept your T5 pilot bearing. If its an automatic, the flexplate bolts will be too short for your thick flywheel, but you can reuse your 258 bolts just fine. Its a good idea to replace flywheel bolts, but plenty of us have reused them without a problem.

Do not get a newer XJ. Stick to the 1991 to 1996 version. The Hesco kit is based on the 1992 version because that had the best head casting and the most power of all the years. The newer heads restricted the flow to meet government regulations. They also changed the wiring harness and the AC pump to no longer be easily compatible with our Eagle. Most if not all the available resources online is based on the early stuff, so you'll be without that valuable help. Txjeeptx used a newer intake manifold because he knew that it was slightly better and easily compatible, but he otherwise used older stuff.

You want late '89 up for an AX-15 (if you look at the shifter tower, it has 4 bolts holding it in as opposed to 3 screws for the earlier and weaker BA 10/5) Some claim there are no 21 spline AX-15s, but '91 up XJ, including AW4s are all 23 spline for sure. The spline depth after '95 changed at some point and the gears became helical cut for less noise too.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline carnuck

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #53 on: February 09, 2012, 12:58:14 PM »
A camshaft has lobes on it that push against tiny cylinders called lifters. They in turn push up on a "pushrod" that is shaped like a huge straw. Inside the lifter is a tiny spring and mini oil pump. As the camshaft turns the lifter fills with oil and pumps that oil through the pushrod and then sprays it up on the top of the engine. A lifter has a very smooth bottom that is said to mate to the camshaft, so you're supposed to replace the lifters at the same time you replace a camshaft. Its also a very good idea to replace them because they are an important part of the oiling system inside the engine. Your original lifters probably have tired springs inside them that no longer put out the same amount of oil they used to.

I would not bother using a dyno. All you need to know is if the engine has the proper compression in each cylinder. Your mechanic can tell you that if you bring him the engine in a pickup truck. I also would not bother replacing the camshaft if you get a 4.0. It will already have a respectable camshaft, lifters, and head as is. I do have a 258 with Hesco MPI kit and it works great in terms of starting and smooth idle. It just doesn't have the power and fuel efficiency it should because of the poor head and camshaft. There really is a very small difference between the engine choices.

With the T5 you need to use your original flywheel. A 4.0 has a thinner flywheel with notches in it that tell the computer which cylinder is ready to have fuel sprayed into it. The Hesco kit is a special harmonic balancer on the front of the engine made with those same notches, so that you no longer need to have a 4.0 flywheel for MPI to work. Its expensive and they are also prone to breaking because they have a fragile "hall sensor" (an electronics term) right there on the front of the engine instead of inside the top of the bell housing. Hall sensors are also very sensitive to distance, so you need to adjust the bracket once in awhile if it gets bumped. The engine cannot run without the crank sensor. Thats why Hesco offers a trail kit that includes a spare sensor and a spare fuel pump.

(trimmed a bit)

With the T5, you can use a 4.0L flywheel and the starter, depending which bell housing you use. The nose of the 4.0L starter may hit the bell (if it had the Ford type starter) and keep it from engaging the flywheel.

With fuel injection you can't go too wild on the cam because the sensors would need changing and the computer reprogrammed to make it work right.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline carnuck

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #54 on: February 09, 2012, 01:03:07 PM »
Ok it looks like koller is no longer in business, I'll check out hesco, I'm def more into the mpi over tbi.
It looks like there's two kits, one is a mopar mpi kit for almost 2.5k and the other is a jeep DFI MPI kit for about 2k.
I can't find any real difference, is there?


I'm taking the harness from a '91 XJ (bought from a local 4x4 shop for $200 already pulled, complete with intake and injectors. I already have an HO head I need to grind valves on) and putting it in my Eagle (using one from a std trans because I still have a 727 and not the AW4 in it) I'll be making an adapter plug to go from the firewall connector to this harness
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline carnuck

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #55 on: February 09, 2012, 01:24:32 PM »
Ya there's definitely a lot I don't know, what's a lifter?, but I google a lot. And it's true there is a lot of info on this site but having a conversation is helpful. When you observe two people who know what they are talking about it's easy to get lost in the lingo. Bell housing sensor what? But actually your both right. "A person who knows everything can't be taught anything." And that's exactly where I'm at, I have no problem asking the "dumb" questions but try to google as much as I can before I ask.

That's a good point tho, if I could just find a newer jeep with everything I need already in then I'd do that. And even upgrade the cam.

I just found a 99 and 2000 jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 with the engine for sale for $850. Because its low miles, 54k I think, and cheap because it's wrecked that it would come with all the accessories/wiring harness, it's an automatic 4x4, would this work as a bolt in? I wanna keep my T5.

Is there anywhere that would tell me what year make and model of jeep swap directly in to my eagle and bolt up to the T5? Obviously only newer wih mpi already on. Itd be nice to have a brand new engine with a 70/10 warranty but if I can get close then that would be great to. It's all about balance, price, reliability, time, power. If I can find a jeep, like you said, and just go grab the engine out of it, I'd even be willing to throw it on a dyno, ~$300, just for the piece of mind. The more options the better. I use an app on my phone to search all of the "list" at once.

I can always grab an engine and throw it the bed of my f150 and take it over to my mechanic after I get it dyno'd.



If your mechanic balks at the job (with too many "ain't done it befores", things can be daunting) see John over at Auburn car repair in Auburn just off highway 167 by the horse track. He has a swap guy that's done a lot of YJ conversions with the XJ harness.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline captspillane

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #56 on: February 09, 2012, 04:20:51 PM »
This is the list you gave earlier in one of your replies. Some of them didn’t make sense, but I think I know what you meant. I added options 6, 7, and 8 to make it complete as possible. It took me 5 hours of active typing and editing to write this.

I’m going to guess at reasonable numbers for horsepower and cost just to compare the options. Your mechanic quoted 3K to rebuild your transmission, transfer case, and install a crate motor. That means he is charging you 2K for the crate motor and 1K to rebuild everything exactly stock. It’s a lot easier and faster to put something back together exactly how you took it apart. That’s a great deal and I do not think he’ll still charge you 1K if you add the time and labor of a conversion. I’ve estimated what I think he’ll charge you in labor for each option based on that information.

You’ve stated “get a performance camshaft” at each option, but that doesn’t make much sense. There is a negligible difference between the Crane cam (Crane is a company) and the original 4.0 camshaft. The only camshaft that sucks is the original 4.2 camshaft. There should be a 40 or 50 horsepower difference between the 4.2 and 4.0 camshaft. There should be no power difference between the “RV” Crane cam that I use and the 4.0 cam. The only advantage is that the power increases differently and peaks at a lower RPM. Crane also makes performance camshafts that will see a minor increase in horsepower, we’ll say 5 HP, at the expense of rough idle and decreased fuel efficiency. A Crane cam costs much more than a stock 4.0 cam. Considering the cost and benefit, I assumed you would stick with the stock 4.0 cam for options 4 and 5 but opt for the performance cam if you buy one for options 1, 2, 3.

1) Stay with the original 4.2 motor because it runs fine.
2) Get a long block 4.2 crate motor
3) Get a short block 4.2 crate motor
4) Get a long block 4.0 crate motor
5) Get a used 4.0 with low miles
6) Get a 4.7L Stroker crate motor
7) Build a 4.7L Stroker motor using your old engine and used parts
8 ) Install an AMC V8


1A) Stay with the original motor as is and install the Hesco MPI kit. Pay 1K to rebuild your transmission. Pay 2K for the Hesco kit and have it installed. For 3000 total you’ll have a used engine that starts and idles much better than stock. You’ll have a used engine with 125 HP for $3000.

Adding a performance camshaft gives you a used engine with 165 HP for $3250.

Adding a 4.0 head without replacing the camshaft is foolish because its less power for more money. You’d have 155 HP for $3500.

Adding a 4.0 head and performance camshaft gives you a used engine with 195 HP for $3700.

1B) Stay with the original motor as is and install Gronk’s Motorcraft 2150 carb. This is not something you or I would do because we love MPI, but it’s an important option for someone else reading this list. In comparison to option 1A, many would argue the benefit of MPI is not worth the cost. Pay 1500 dollars for transmission rebuild, the cost of the kit, and the installation. You’ll have a used engine that starts and idles much better than stock but needs annual adjustments. Most people would go this route because it literally costs half as much as the first option with negligible difference in performance. The restriction from the original intake and exhaust manifold doesn’t matter initially, but its effect diminishes the increase from head and cam upgrades. It also is a very simple upgrade that leaves most of your engine alone. It’s very easy to troubleshoot.  You’ll have a used engine with 125 HP for $1500.

Adding a performance camshaft gives you a used engine with 150 HP for $1750.

Adding a 4.0 head only gives you a used engine with 140 HP for $2000.

Adding a 4.0 head and performance camshaft gives you a used engine with 180 HP for $2200.

Rebuilding your lower end similar to option 1C but with a 2150 carb would give you a nearly new engine with 180 HP for $2900.

1C) Have your mechanic rebuild your engine with new main bearings, rings, rod bearings, gaskets, seals, and timing chain. This is easier than rebuilding a transmission. I expect that he would charge you between $700 and $1000 including all the parts. A short block crate motor with this work already done would cost $1200 to $1400 dollars but it would include machine work to make it slightly more reliable. This is also a good option if you can find a low mileage motor below 60K miles for less than 300 dollars to have rebuilt and ready to install before dismantling your roadworthy car.

This option means that you’ll have a nearly new engine with 195 HP for $4500.

2A) You could take the mechanic up on his original offer and get a long block crate engine installed. If you left it totally original it would cost you 3000 dollars for a brand new engine with 115 HP.

2B) You could add a Hesco MPI kit to the long block 4.2L. 1K transmission rebuild, $2000 to 2200 for the crate motor, and 2K for the MPI kit. It will cost you $5000 for a brand new engine that gets 125 HP.

2C) You could be foolish and buy a long block 4.2L instead of a short block crate motor. This costs 2000 to 2200 dollars. Afterwards you could buy a new head gasket, camshaft, and head to replace the brand new camshaft and head the long block came with. That will cost you $700 dollars. You’ll still get the Hesco MPI for 2K. You’ll have spent $5700 for a brand new engine that gets 195 HP.

3) Get a short block 4.2L crate motor and add a Hesco MPI for 2K. This costs between 1200 and 1400 dollars. Add $700 for a new 4.0 head and performance camshaft. Install engine and rebuild transmission for 1k. You’ll have spent the same as option 2B but gotten much more power. You’ll have created the identical engine as option 2C for cheaper. You’ll have spent $4900 for a brand new engine that gets 195 HP.

4) You could start with a 4.0 long block crate motor before adding MPI and installation costs. You will have a new engine with 190 HP for $5000.

In comparison to option 3 you will have spent a meager 100 dollars more for a meager 5 HP less. The minor decrease in power is the result of the slightly smaller displacement and negligible difference between stock 4.0 and performance camshafts. The advantage is that you may protect your crate motor warranty if you do not disassemble the engine. It will take slightly less time to install. Your engine will be equivalent to a stock 1992 Cherokee instead of a hodge-podge of different parts. You will have the metal timing gear already. You will have the bolt bosses on the block to accept 4.0 accessory brackets with ease, which makes it much simpler to install a superior serpentine belt system.

5) You could get a low mileage used 4.0 along with all the serpentine belt accessories, computer, and wiring harness for about $600 dollars. You would not need most of the Hesco kit but still need a crank position sensor (Hesco’s notched harmonic balancer kit), speed sensor, and a fuel pump ($600 total). Installation would cost 1K still, but minor issues during installation will add up to 500 dollars in labor. You will already have a respectable camshaft and head.

You will then have a used motor with 190 HP for $2700. (In comparison option 1A which gave you a used engine with 195 HP for $3700 and option 1B gave you a used engine with 180 HP for $2200)

6) A 4.7L stroker motor is available as a crate engine for about $2700. A stroker is externally the same as a 4.0 motor. It uses a larger volume of fuel and will get less fuel mileage. It gives alot more power for a relatively small amount of money. 0ption 4, in comparison, gives you a new complete 4.0 engine with warranty and 190 HP for $5000. The stroker crate motor would provide a new complete 4.7 engine with warranty and 260 HP for $5500.

A 4.9 crate engine is also advertised with three year warranty for $3700. Its advertised to provide 315 HP but I find that to be possible only if they tested it at a very high RPM. If you used it in a reasonable RPM range I bet it would provide 300 HP. That's still quite respectable. You'll need special high volume injectors and you'll lose considerable fuel mileage but gain lots of power. That gives you a new motor with 315 HP for $6700.

7) Build a 4.7L Stroker motor using your old engine and used parts. Option 5 could be modified by machining the used 4.0 block and adding your old 4.2 crank. I estimate a $1500 dollar added cost for the rebuild and machine work. You would then have a new 4.7 engine without a warranty and 260 HP for between $4500 and $5200.

I would suggest buying a different 4.2 crank to use while your Eagle remains roadworthy because the machine work and rebuild would take two to three months for your mechanic to complete (he has to wait to send parts out and get them back) and another month or two to source the parts. If your donor parts have low miles and you simply rebuild and assemble everything without machine work, you can expect it to cost $3500 to $4700 (including 1K for transmission rebuild and engine removal). This is a popular option because it compares well to the cost of the crate engine options but gets more power while all the expenses come slowly and in big chunks instead of all at once.

8 ) Install an AMC V8. This is a viable option because of Terry’s conversion mounts that he makes for $350 dollars. A donor AMC V8 in good condition with all the accessories and manifolds included costs between $400 and $900 dollars. The radiator must be upgraded ($150) and your front coil springs should be upgraded to heavier Javelin spring ($100). The rear axle should be upgraded, but I will not include the rear axle cost because a stock 4.0 is also too powerful for your stock rear. I will not include the upgrade of the transmission because a T5 works fine behind a 304 and mild 360, but it should be upgraded to a NV3550 or TF727 behind a 401. I included the 1K transmission rebuild and engine swap labor, but included an extra $200 dollars to modify the exhaust. I assumed a basic engine rebuild with new bearings and rings but no machine work at a value of $800 dollars. Since we’re comparing to the quality of fuel injected 6 cylinder, I included a 1300 dollar fuel injection kit for the V8 as well as $200 for a performance cam. An MPI kit is available for $2900 dollars but it’s much more common to install the Howell TBI kit on an AMC V8.

With a 304 V8 you’ll have a nearly new engine with 225 HP for $3500.

With a 360 V8 you’ll have a nearly new engine with 295 HP for $3600.

With a 401 V8 you’ll have a nearly new engine with 340 HP for $4000

Crate motors with warranties are available for AMC V8s. They would add between $1500 to $5000 to those cost estimates. A professionally built AMC 401 has the potential to provide well over 400 HP.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2012, 03:14:27 PM by captspillane »
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline Baskinator

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #57 on: February 10, 2012, 11:26:11 PM »
Dang.
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (Work In Progress)

Photobucket Album: http://s1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/

Offline captspillane

  • The Perkiomen Eagle Sanctuary
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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #58 on: February 19, 2012, 03:40:28 PM »
I won't be using the expensive Hesco CPS kit because its expensive and relatively fragile. The Crank Position Sensor can be installed on your TF998 if you buy a flexplate with the proper notches. Here is some information I found today for the DIY types who read this same thread.

You need to get a flexplate from a 1991 to 1995 YJ Wrangler. (A 93 to 96 Grand Cherokee supposedly has the same flexplate). You can use either the square XJ sensor or the round YJ sensor. If you use the round YJ sensor you just need to drill a half inch hole in the bellhousing. If you get the square one you will need to make a much larger hole in the bellhousing. You put a thin piece of cardboard the thickness of a matchbook cover on the sensor and then adjust that snug to the flexplate. A new sensor actually comes with the cardboard in place. I attached a picture from the Novak website with their solution.

A Renix style flexplate and an AW4 flexplate will not work. 1990 and older sensors had different trigger notches. The AW4 flexplate puts the torque converter 5mm closer to the transmission, which will quickly do alot of damage. I've also seen evidence that the 97-04 CPS sensors use 5 volts while the 91-96 use 8 volts. That means you need to be careful which sensor you use. They look identical but they likely have a different resistance.

Today I also found this awesome write up here on the Eagle nest. He had a fan clearence issue because his engine came from an XJ. A YJ has the fan in the center and an XJ has the fan off to one side with an electrical fan on the other side.

http://www.amceaglenest.com/images/PDFS/Joshs%204.0%20Walkthrough.pdf
 
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline olymunch

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Re: New 4.2 or new 4.0?
« Reply #59 on: February 19, 2012, 04:31:29 PM »
Good to know!!

 

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