Need help getting her started! Updated 4/10

[NoCoEagle]

Any ideas? Swapping the plug wires resulted in a loud bang much unlike how it sounded when the car was able to start. So I'm assuming that's a non-issue and I'm wired up right. I checked TDC on #1 before installing. I'm really lost here. I've never even set timing on a car, let alone set it after yanking a dizzy without marking it.

[eaglebeek]

I'm understanding it starts but won't stay running unless it's given throttle. If this is correct...and you've plugged all sources of vacuum leaks...I think the distributor rotor installed in the wrong position can be ruled out. I believe you said you did a 4.0 head conversion...did you change the can or timing chain at the same time?

[NoCoEagle]

Well, it won't start unless I flood it with gas, then it'll fire up strongly and I need to continue flooding the heck out of it to keep it running. Basically I need to keep the RPMs up above a certain level and she'll run, but doesn't sound great (not sure if that's cus of an issue or because I've never heard a L6 with an open header). I did do a 4.0 head swap, but no, I did not swap the cam or timing chain. In my mind the fact that it will "sort of" run rules out the dizzy.. the firing order has to be correct in order to keep the engine going, right? The only vacuum leak I have that I didn't realize before just now is my 4x4 vac line isn't hooked up. I believe that just goes to the back of the intake manifold, right? There's a couple ports sticking up back there.

I feel like that small of a leak wouldn't affect it starting, but I'm obviously no expert. I actually tore the engine back down because my theory on the water jackets was incorrect, so I'll be pulling the head again and reassembling. My carb is leaking gas a little bit under where the electric choke is, so I may need to pick up a rebuild kit for it and just go through it.

While I'm typing, I've been meaning to ask about torquing down the head. I was reading to torque the bolts down to 110 ft lbs, and I believe that's around where tougeagle had them torqued when he regasketed the car the first time with me, but I could be wrong. Anyway, I've now split apart two 5/8 sockets and broken a nice Husky torque wrench going to these specs. Further research shows some people suggesting torque as low as 85 ft lbs. Silly thing to think about now, but I thought I'd ask so when it goes back together it's correct.

[eaglebeek]

According to the AMC manual the correct torque if 85 ft/lbs.

[carguy87]

110ft./lbs. is for the 4.0L engine, you will want to torque yours to 85ft./lbs.  I torqued mine to 85 on my 4.0L swap and is still holding very well after 7k miles.  You will want to make sure your water jackets are JB welded good, but I am assuming you already did that.  Sounds to me like your carburetor is gunked up and your float and needle are not properly moving.  What kind of carburetor are you running? You might have to re-jet it if you had to mill down the cylinder head or the engine block any.  Either way, your carburetor seems to be the major culprit.  As far as timing, to start off, I would put #1 cylinder at TDC Compression, then index your distributor and drop it in so that the rotor is pointing just after the post on the cap for #1 wire and so that it points somewhere around 4 o'clock, that will give you a good starting point and allow you to adjust timing once it is running better.

[NoCoEagle]

Updated the OP.

[NoCoEagle]

I used the 4.0 gasket and slotted my manifold like you described.

[NoCoEagle]

Anyone? I'm really stumped here. Went out and tried it again, same thing. Doesn't even sound like it wants to run while cranking, then a big pop out of the carb.

[mudkicker715]

Well, it won't start unless I flood it with gas, then it'll fire up strongly and I need to continue flooding the heck out of it to keep it running. Basically I need to keep the RPMs up above a certain level and she'll run, but doesn't sound great (not sure if that's cus of an issue or because I've never heard a L6 with an open header). I did do a 4.0 head swap, but no, I did not swap the cam or timing chain. In my mind the fact that it will "sort of" run rules out the dizzy.. the firing order has to be correct in order to keep the engine going, right? The only vacuum leak I have that I didn't realize before just now is my 4x4 vac line isn't hooked up. I believe that just goes to the back of the intake manifold, right? There's a couple ports sticking up back there.

I feel like that small of a leak wouldn't affect it starting, but I'm obviously no expert. I actually tore the engine back down because my theory on the water jackets was incorrect, so I'll be pulling the head again and reassembling. My carb is leaking gas a little bit under where the electric choke is, so I may need to pick up a rebuild kit for it and just go through it.

While I'm typing, I've been meaning to ask about torquing down the head. I was reading to torque the bolts down to 110 ft lbs, and I believe that's around where tougeagle had them torqued when he regasketed the car the first time with me, but I could be wrong. Anyway, I've now split apart two 5/8 sockets and broken a nice Husky torque wrench going to these specs. Further research shows some people suggesting torque as low as 85 ft lbs. Silly thing to think about now, but I thought I'd ask so when it goes back together it's correct.

How certain are you there isnt a leak at the manifold

[NoCoEagle]

Fairly certain, I just installed the manifolds while the head was out of the car, proper torque sequence, look absolutely flush, good gasket, and can't see anything wrong using the carb cleaner test.

[NoCoEagle]

It needs to be running by May or I will be forced to scrap it, unless someone with a trailer wants to buy it. I could really use some expert help, I've done about all I know how to do.

[mr.mindless]

Anyone? I'm really stumped here. Went out and tried it again, same thing. Doesn't even sound like it wants to run while cranking, then a big pop out of the carb.

That sounds like timing now.

Have you put a timing light on it and confirmed spark is happening in the proper place?

Have you double checked your firing order?

I think I read that the computer is bypassed already, so that shouldn't be a concern...

[NoCoEagle]

I've checked plug wires, I set #1 to TDC when I dropped the dizzy in, I'll run out and check one more time where the rotor is facing at TDC and make sure everything lines up. Had this issue with my 68 Javelin and the new demon carb, ended up being a distributor issue, but I've looked and re-looked at this thing so many times now.

[mudkicker715]

My stroker carb (for tink715 hence the color)  looks like this.
 
 

i blue printed this to the gasket to be certain of no leaks. as i did with my other carbed stroker

Hope this can hel0

[mudkicker715]

Should of said for the bottom side pic look at the stud for the intake. is yours similar?