Need help getting her started! Updated 4/10

[NoCoEagle]

Recently finished a 4.0 head swap, trying to see if the thing will run. Don't quite have timing dialed in (didn't mark distributor) but it's to the point that the car will fire up if I give it enough gas. Problem is, it seems like as soon as it starts it wants to rev to high heck and I have to shut it down. The throttle linkage assembly isn't hooked up, so I'm just working off the carb. What could cause the car to rev high even without any throttle?

UPDATE: So I tore down the engine again, reassembled, checked and rechecked plug wiring, vacuum ports, etc. Only things not hooked up are: Throttle linkage/kickdown/whatever that other cable is that goes to the passenger side of the engine compartment. Shouldn't be an issue to get it running, right?

So, the issue this time is, I cranked for a while, gave it some gas, cranked, and got a decent sized detonation out of the carb. Stopped there, waiting for my battery to charge back up, but I'm unsure what this could be now. The reason I decided to swap the head (in addition to the power gain) is because I got a loud popping out of the carb with the 258 head, which was thought to be a stuck valve. But, with the 258 head, the engine would at least run.

Any ideas? I don't wanna hurt this engine by cranking and cranking when something could be wrong.

[doc65]

stuck on fast idle cam, major vac leak...

[GRONK]

Major vacuum leak or the lack of a return spring on the throttle shaft/carb.

[GRONK]

Find TDC and give it a 1/2" advance form there for the initial start.  Make sure your plug wires are in order.

[NoCoEagle]

Might as well just do it right, how do you set initial timing if you're installing a new distributor (since it wouldn't have been marked)? Anyone got time to walk me through that process so that I know which point on the distributor represents the #1 cylinder?

Also remembered I didn't put my EGR valve on (or block it somehow). That'd be a major vacuum leak, right?

[doc65]

If you just plain have NO EGR valve OR block off plate??? Yeah, I'd call taht a major vac leak, not even sure it would run at all in that configuration...

[NoCoEagle]

Not sure how to block it off, I suppose putting the valve on and plugging it would work (maybe?) but I'm not sure how I'm going to plug the hole for the exhaust on the bottom of the intake. Any ideas?

[mudkicker715]

I cemented a pipe thread plug into one. incorrect thread but close. it works.

[ammachine390]

Yeah, I'd call taht a major vac leak, not even sure it would run at all in that configuration...

Mine did, started and instantly revved up to about 2300 rpm.

[NoCoEagle]

Yeah, it'll definitely run, and like ammachine390 said, rev up pretty high instantly.

[NoCoEagle]

EGR valve is installed, capping off the nipple should be enough, right? Then blocking off the exhaust part of it should provide a complete seal, unless I'm missing something. And every vacuum port coming off the intake should be either used or capped, correct?

[doc65]

Capping the nipple shouldn't even be necessary, that nipple feeds a vacume diaphragm that opens the EGR, so no vac on nipple, no open EGR...

[NoCoEagle]

Still haven't figured it out. Manifold vac lines are capped, carb lines are capped (except to vac advance), EGR valve is installed, capped, and exhaust portion is blocked. PCV feeds to back of carb, carb feeds to booster. Car will start if I flood it with gas, and will run if I keep feeding it too much gas. Checked my spark plug wires, all are good, even tried moving them clockwise just in case. Turning the distributor seems to have no effect on how it sounds when cranking, haven't tried turning the dizzy with the car running because it takes way too much gas to keep it running and I figure there has to be a better way.

So close, yet so far away. 

[JayRamb]

Have your ICM tested or replaced.

[NoCoEagle]

It's been converted to HEI and the emissions equipment has been removed.