Modified Vacuum line diagram for the 258

[Bird-o-Prey]

Furstratingly, I have not had much chance to run the car since the plumbing job.  I have been re-wiring the hack job the previous owner made of the wiring system in the cab & replacing the dash as well.  Also, the power steering puked all over the garage floor, and I just got the new hoses today and I still have to pull the pump from my parts car.  While I had it running, the ride had smoothed out greatly and the sputtering has all but dissapeared!  I need to look int cleaning the carb jets out and properly adjusting the timing, although I believe I will give it the TFI upgrade before I do that.  I will keep you all posted.  Also, If anyone else has anything to add to the vacuum diagram, just post it here or PM me and I'll test it out and add it to the diagram if it works out.  However, I believe I got all the major systems covered. 

Cheers

[BenM]

I have a different style CTO with just one pair of fittings. I have the EGR valve just through it and it's off your capped fitting. That's the "Emissions" fitting on the carb. It's a ported vacuum. I have the canister through the TVS also off of that port.

Run your dist. off of its own vacuum port to avoid leak-down problems off of an accessory. Since it's sensitive to vacuum, I recommend one off of the base or off of the manifold near the carb.

All accessories can be grouped together. Leave your Sol-Vac disconnected if you don't have the solenoid. mccastlej is right about it being extended all the time.

[Bird-o-Prey]

I had noticed that there were several different CTO configurations in the TSM.  I did make the caveat that this was for an '82 Canadian Eagle with the Carter BBD.  Also, I noticed in the TSM that different ports were used on different engine configurations depending on where the car was built for.  Mostly what I wanted to do here was not to make a definitive vacuum diagram, but just to show how the basics can be routed fairly simply with the removal of all the pollution controls.  The idea for running the distributor off it's own vacuum line is a good one because the more connections added to a line the greater the chance to have a failure somewhere.  As I mentioned earlier, this is just a place to start sorting things out since everyone will have a slightly different set up.

Cheers

[El Matador]

Is this the complete diagram?  If so, then that means all of the stuff by the firewall (solenoids and such) and most of the items over on the passenger side can be eliminated? 

Also, the line on the bottom which says "to 4WD shift motor"... where exactly IS the 4WD shift motor?

There must have been some change in components used between 1982 and 1984, because the symbology on the diagram doesn't quite match what's in my car in some cases.  That's been the most confusing part for me.  That and getting my head around the fact that so much stuff is done away with.

[IowaEagle]

The 4WD shift motors are the ones that change the transfer case from 2WD and 4WD and for cars with the disconnect axle it also operates the shift motor that engages or disengages the axle.  IIRC the cars with the disconnect axle had an indpependent reservior on the passenger side and the cars without the disconnect axle may not have had that extra reservior.  Eagles can have 1 - 3 reserviors depending on equipment.  One on the driver's side, one on the passeger side and one on the passenger side firewall for cruise control.

[Bird-o-Prey]

Sorry!!  I have been incogneto for some time now.  I have not had much time to work on the eagle lately.  Then, we had a dump of over a foot of snow overnight, last week.  I don't think I'll be getting much done on the car till the spring now.  To answer your question El Matador, yes, that is the whole shebang!!  Once you remove all of the pollution control lead weights, that is what you are left with.  As I posted earlier, this is just a bare bones, essential systems, diagram.  I think it should allow for more flexibility in adjustment with respect to emmissions controls testing too!  It is surprising how much crap (unnecessary) there is under the hood, though, eh?

[trapperjack]

Bird O Prey Iowa Eagle and others who have done this,
This may have been answered, but want clarification. the vac switches on the pass. fenderwell, those can be eliminated?
Thanks,
trapperjack

[IowaEagle]

I have not done it according to the diagram.  Mine was just gut instinct.  I forget if those are still functioning.  I think so, but not to sure.

[Bird-o-Prey]

The Vac switches on the pass ferder wall were connected to the Pulsed air injection system, I believe.  The electric connections are to open and close the switches.  Mine are still on the fender simply because I haven't removed them yet.  The car runs just fine without them, and better since I simplified the VAC plumbing.  So, the short answer is yes, you could remove them without harming anything.

Cheers

[trapperjack]

I removed the remaining vac lines this afternoon, the ones from the switches on the fenderwell. Does not run right, not sure what's up. Followed the modified vac diagram, but definatly dissapointed. gonna try to re-rig everything back like it was. After disconnecting everything, the bird would turn over like crazy but wouldn't fire. Finally figured out I had busted a connection at the coil while pulling vac lines.

[Bird-o-Prey]

Have you replaced the vacuum lines?  I had some problems with mine at first because the rubber was old and cracked and leaking in some places?  Sorry, it didn't seem to make a difference to your engine!  Mine ran awsome & smooth after I  changed the lines and simpified the plumbing.

[trapperjack]

Well, I learned something today. I know nothing about these vaccum set ups. I arranded and re-arranged so many times using this diagram and that. Finally just left it running and started pulling and moving, plugging and splicing, capping and moving again. Finally all of the sudden it smoothed out. runs good again. Wish I knew why, so I'd have some words of wisdom. I'm basically just left scratching my butt and glad it's running right. Seems to be the vac to distributor causing problems. If I hook it to manifold or carb, runs rough and wants to die when put in gear. Hook it to the CTO like it shows in Chilton's runs good.
Whew!

[IowaEagle]

That's kind of how I did mine too.

[Nick]

I need a diagram for an '83wagon with a straight 6??? Need so much help it aint funny.

Thanks
 Nick
[email protected]

[cross-x]

I need a diagram for an '83wagon with a straight 6??? Need so much help it aint funny.

I have an original AMC service manual for 1982 so I run a 6 cylinder and a sytle of carb a bit different than the scematic shown on this page by other nesters here. My carb style is here; http://home.comcast.net/~hollaus/AMC/schematic_vacuum.htm
Looking at the vacuum connects to the carb and If this is your style then don't pay attention to the previous hacks above.

Bird O Prey Iowa Eagle and others who have done this,
This may have been answered, but want clarification. the vac switches on the pass. fenderwell, those can be eliminated?
Thanks,
trapperjack

FYI, i run my car with all the original smog accessories and a fully functioning central processor with a home made LED display wired so that I can see all the signals in real driving time that are presented through the electrical diagnostic connector. The 2 vac switches you speak of are telling the processor to change the mode of closed loop driving and does such things as shunts out the oxygen sensor. If you don't have a functioning oxygen sensor or functionable carb stepper motor then it's not going to make any difference if you remove these vac switches. My point is that you probably can't pass an IM test with out these, but you might if you had an air injection pump like I do. I'm an electrician and do lots of troubleshooting, not an IM specialist.
(now I'm going to load my vac image into the link slot above)