84 sedan project (beginners luck)

[vangremlin]

its the rollover fuel shutoff valve. no longer available. If your car is running, its ok, if it fails, you can take it out of the line.  gz

I think someone said that you can use the rollover shut off valve from a DeLorean if you want to replace yours.

https://www.deloreango.com/us/roll-over-valve.html

[Murdoc1905]

I wonder what would happen if you roll over 88 times.

[vangremlin]

You'd disrupt the space-time continuum!

[Murdoc1905]

Also holy key wear..

[Murdoc1905]

So after repairing the seat and re-installing it, I can't get it to adjust forward and backwards more than 1 click. Did I do something wrong?

[Murdoc1905]

Figured it out, rails were misaligned. Good thing I forgot to route the seat belt thru anyway and already had to remove the seat again.

Looks like I have a little bit of welding ahead of me.
bottom hinge is really wallowed out.

[mudkicker715]

Try replacing the bushing that belongs in there. Also new hinge pin. That might be the easy fix, if not to wallowed out.

[Murdoc1905]

it looks pretty bad, whats the stock hole supposed to be?

I think thru research its either .363 or .305 possibly.

[Murdoc1905]

went to go take the Eagle to a friend of mine that has a bunch of eagles to help me work on it a bit, he was a few miles up the road but alas she couldn't make it up the 1,000' elevation change over 6 miles. in fact it only made it a mile up the road before it refused to go up hill anymore. Originally I had an Idle issue. fixing that seems to have caused a power issue.. I'm almost certain there is a vacuum leak or the stepper motor is bad because the metering pin is 100% of the time pinned forward. is there a way to test the stepper motor? like jam a 9v battery in some of the pins to make it move?

[mudkicker715]

You need to talk with amcofhouston he knows carbs better than anyone here. He is the in house expert.

I hope i got his name right.

[Murdoc1905]

I think I'm going to try my hand at building a simple diagnostic tool. One for air fuel as well as all the other diagnostic features.
The idea is to use 2 dial voltmeter, one that is a 0-1 volt gauge for the air fuel gauge, and another that is 1-15 volts connected to a 12 pole rotary switch for the other aspects of the diagnostic port. The reason I want to try this and not just the led lights like in the other homemade tool on the sprynet site is I want to see how much voltage is going to each system to try to find power leaks. So far I'm down $45 shipped for 2 of everything that I will need, including connectors which were the most expensive part tbh. I bought 2 in case it works properly and I want to make another, or in case the $5 gauges don't work properly, which is more likely lol. I will be scrounging wire from somewhere as wire is always too expensive.

[Murdoc1905]

Did a quick Check on the stepper motor on the diagnostic connector, when ignition turns on, there is no movement that I can see in the metering pin, unless it moves extremely quickly before I could see it. The voltage tests were: pin 11 = BØ was 11. 75v. Pin 14 = AØ was also 11.75v. At high idle both 11 and 14 were at 0.80 and once I kicked it into low idle pin 11 was at 14v and pin 14 was at 0.80v. There is no fluctuation in the voltages, they are pretty much pegged all the time.
since BØ was pegged at regular idle I think it means it's running waaay lean. which would account for the metering pin jammed closed, but it could point to a malfunctioning O2 sensor as from previous voltage readings the O2 never even got to 0.1v let alone 0.6v. that or there is a massive hole in the engine I am missing that is allowing a lot of extra air into the engine. but allowing it to idle fine.
Pin 10 = air temp only got down to 0.05v I'm not sure if the computer identifies this as "closed. Pin 12 = coolant temp was 13.69v so it was Open. So I'm leaning more and more that it's a bad stepper motor. But I don't know for sure.

[Murdoc1905]

Sooo.. I couldn't help myself. Found this online for relatively cheap. And the best part is, someone already pre-cut it to the exact size that I needed. It's a bit tall thou. And I think the radius it moves is a tiny bit larger but all part of the fun and frustration of modification.

[amcfool1]

hi, good luck with that new shifter. btw, your original AMC  shifter, is the SAME (with minor detail differences) as the Ford Pinto/Mustang II, shifters, available at most Ford Mustang restoration shops. Before modifying, get the thing running right. You need a "baseline" from which to work. The stock shifter is actually a pretty well designed piece of equipment. It's actually quite elegant in its simplicity. the only weak spot is the cable pull fraying,.  Pull the whole thing out, derust it (Evaporust works wonders), clean it, lube it, put it back, go drive. If you feel you need a fancy shifter, ok, your car, but ...WHY? don't fix it if it ain't broke! there's lots of other "broke" things to get to first! good luck, gz

[Murdoc1905]

Yeah I know I should just leave well enough alone. The shifter works perfectly fine, I really just wanted to see if I could tbh. The plan was to make something that could instantly be swapped out for old and new style shifter. I didn't want to just hack and weld things. But we will see. As of right now it's the only thing that I can try to do by myself until I try to figure out how to carburetor. Amc of Huston is helping me a bunch but still a lot to just jump into with very little car knowledge to begin with.