84 sedan project (beginners luck)

[TEagle85]

If I could give any advice from my sedan struggles I say the first thing you should do is the ECM Test bypass and run a motorcraft 2100/2150.

I had my problems with that motorcraft as well but you are going to be pulling your hair out and spending a lot of time and labor costs going in circles trying to get all that old emission stuff back in working order. And if you are waiting on others for help in that area then even more of a reason to dig in yourself and do the bypass. Its pretty easy to do and lots of info on how to do it. Once you do that you will have more confidence to start digging into other stuff.

I could be wrong, and not considering what state you live in and the laws but simplify that mess under the hood would be my number one.

It will be both a upgrade and a step towards getting the thing on its way to being reliable. If the problem is the vacuum mess then get rid of it. If the carb is giving you issues get rid of it. I know its not the cheapest methodology but its a sure way.

[Murdoc1905]

Yeah, unfortunately my county is under the emissions blanket, so I'll more than likely have to keep what I have. I've read stories of emissions shops around here straight refusing you if you have an aftermarket carb without the vacuum lines here. I am going to be getting a carb rebuild kit as they are really cheap and I'll probably want to take the carb apart anyway to make sure there's no issues. I went to open up the idle bleed tubes on it yesterday and found it had already been done. This car has never left CO and it's last registration was 2012, it could be that it never had to deal with emissions but the re-built exhaust gives me hope that it was at least passing as of 2012.

[vangremlin]

I live in Colorado also, in an area with emissions testing.  Along with the tailpipe sniffer, they also do a visual inspection.  I can't say that they always know what they are looking for, but I do believe they have diagrams or pictures of what to look for, and if the original emissions equipment is missing, they will fail you, regardless of the actual emissions. 

[Murdoc1905]

Okay, so I tore the carb apart. I'm 90% now that the stepper motor is bad. The rest seems pretty beautiful to me.
Are these supposed to be different?










On a side note I found the ringing noise I kept hearing in the back...

[TEagle85]

I should have read a little earlier in the thread I'm sure emissions were mentioned, my bad.

Curious for states with emissions if you did a whole engine / driveline swap from a newer Jeep do they nail you for that ?

[derf]

I should have read a little earlier in the thread I'm sure emissions were mentioned, my bad.

Curious for states with emissions if you did a whole engine / driveline swap from a newer Jeep do they nail you for that ?

Depends on the state.  Some states are easier than others.

There are rules for swapping in engines from newer vehicles.  Generally, you have to take all of the emissions stuff off the donor and keep it with the engine in the older vehicle.  So, for example, a 4.0 would have to have the factory fuel injection with the catalytic converter, O2 sensor, etc.  You can re-route the exhaust to make it fit but all of the pieces would have to be there and working.

In states like California, they're more focused on keeping it stock than what comes out of the tail pipe so its harder to get a swap approved.  Other states care more about what comes out of the tail pipe and are fine with most of what you do as long as it blows cleaner than the factory original.

[DAVE]

I have emissions here in Oregon and fortunately they only do a visual for a Cat. and then the sniffer
they used to open the hood to hook up a tach but they don't even do that anymore

[AMC of Houston]

That metering rod plunger looks extra-gonzo-crusty!   Was it even able to move??   Was there a spring under it like there should be??

[Murdoc1905]

Yeah it's pretty crusty, there was a spring yes and it didn't bind as far as I could feel. I've got some carb cleaner and I'm gonna attack everything while I'm waiting on my rebuild kit. So doing a quick look and finding stepper motors for like $70 refurbished.. Anyone know a place I could get one cheaper? I might try a pick and pull or something

[Murdoc1905]

Looks like she's been thru the mill.

[Murdoc1905]

Finally took the cover off. Boy was that fun. In order to get the back bolt off I had to put the socket on the nut and wiggle it for about 15 min to get the crud out from around the bolt, then try to put the universal joint onto the socket then put the extension on that. It wouldn't fit any other way. The metal lines that run along the firewall only allowed me to put the thinnest walled crappiest socket on it. All others wouldn't fit between the cover and the lines. Once it finally got it pried up it looks like this wasn't the first time (kinda already knew that because of the all Rtv gasket)

With the ac line running directly across the cover it took another 10 min just to wrestle the cover off. I can't imagine how fun it will be to do it again with rtv everywhere.


I'd love to say I'll get an aftermarket cover but I don't have the money for that currently. I'll see how bad this cover is, but from the looks it just seems like oil ate thru the rtv.

[amcfool1]

hi, make sure you get the good gasket, Felpro #VS50244R, about $37.  don'get a cheap one!  A good gasket is better than just silicone. good luck, gz

[Murdoc1905]

I found that gasket at rockauto for $20 are there different versions of that part number? All the other places I can get it from are like $45. Amazon won't ship it to my address for some reason.

[johnbendik]

Searching this site for 'valve cover removal' will reveal many tales of misery concerning that back bolt, mine included.  You probably already figured this out, but removing the wiper motor also helps a bit.  I replaced the original bolt with an Allen key-cap bolt to make it easier to remove (and replace) next time.

I will also say that the PITA aspect of that bolt also makes a compelling case for replacing the valve cover now, rather than later, just so you don't have to screw with it again.  I'm just sayin'...

I saw some chrome-plated steel ones in the low $40's on Ebay.

JB

[mudkicker715]

I will never understand the problem with that rear bolt. It honestly takes me a minute or less. None of mine had ac in the way so i know nothing of that misery. They should of had that, but i gave up on that and removed it.