84 sedan project (beginners luck)

[Murdoc1905]

A single bolt under the dissy that goes into the block. It has a wishbone "washer" under it. Its either 1/2 " or 9/16".

Probably 1/2".  There is a special wrench to loosen and tighten.  That bolt should only need a 1/2 a turn to move the dissy. Mark the base and engine block to see where you started, incase you want to return to where you were. A timing light is useful here.

Thanks for the info, it was a 1/2" sounds a lot better now. I'll probably have to go back thru the carb tune process as it's a bit out of wack again. Putting it in gear after I first turn it on and move it to low idle kills it, but any attempt to lower idle causes the engine to stutter, putting it in gear now you hear a loud thunk from the diff. I think it's at too high of idle but I can't check until I get my tach in.

[Murdoc1905]

It has been a while but I have not given up on the Eagle, I just hate working in the cold lol. I have been doing a lot actually. working on a new Vacuum diagram, I'm planning on adding it to the forums as soon as I get the bugs worked out. I will also make a how-to install the aftermarket valve cover as well. Currently on my Eagle I am working on getting the vacuum system hooked back up and after that I'll tune the car once more before attempting to pass emissions, hopefully for the last time.

[Murdoc1905]

Well, didn't end up passing emissions again. Got really close but not quite enough. I'm giving in and taking it to a mechanic to look at it. I'll see if he can find something that I missed or don't understand.

[vangremlin]

I had a 78 Gremlin that wouldn't pass emissions and took it to a mechanic.  He tuned it so that it would pass, didn't run all that great but it passed emissions.  After it passed, he said bring it back to him and he would tune it so that it ran better, which is what I did.  Good luck!!

[Murdoc1905]

On the emissions front I removed the intake and exhaust manifolds and replaced the gaskets, re-re-built the carburetor with parts from another carb that I had, properly this time, and it seems to run a lot better now. Next round of repairs to include, cracked flexplate, cracked, but not leaking yet, power steering return hose, non-working windshield washer pump, splitting stabilizer bar links, and once I drop the trans pan for a look I'll see if I need to start tearing that apart, but at least going to replace the trans filter.

[Murdoc1905]

So I finally got the transfer case and transmission down. I didn't struggle too much except when I twisted off one of the transmission coolant lines so I'll have to deal with that now. transmission came out pretty easily, I couldn't for the life of me remove the transmission tube so it had to come out with it. Once I got it out I cleaned both up a bit.
 

The flexplate was pretty cracked, no surprise there, the bolts attaching it to the engine were torqued to holy , but with a breaker bar I finally got it off.


Here's all the new/old parts just because.

[Murdoc1905]

Woops. That's what I get for trying to guess. Got the wrong torque converter. Bought the lockup one. At least I got it from oriley so I can pretty easily get it swapped. I hope. When I read "the lockup cutoff year was 84" I thought it meant everything past 84 was non-lockup.

[rmick]

Might think about doing a shift kit while you're that deep to improve firmer shifts and down shifts.

[Murdoc1905]

Might think about doing a shift kit while you're that deep to improve firmer shifts and down shifts.

I was looking at that, does it really help? How difficult it is to do?

[rmick]

Defiantly helps give friend shift points and kick down is firmer. Not hard to do just a matter of following the directions . Remove the valve body and separate changes out a mid plate and some check balls. Most kits  have couple of different settings depending on what kind of shifting you want look at summit and see the kits and reviews.

[djm3452004]

Here's all the new/old parts just because.

It may be a good idea to upgrade to the Mopar 4295875AC transmission pan gasket to replace that rubber gasket.  Both the rubber and cork gaskets always seem to weep trans fluid over time.

The Mopar one costs $20-25 from a dealer and I believe Crown also offers a cheaper equivalent at roughly $15 per gasket.


Hope this helps --
David

[Murdoc1905]

It may be a good idea to upgrade to the Mopar 4295875AC transmission pan gasket to replace that rubber gasket.  Both the rubber and cork gaskets always seem to weep trans fluid over time.

The Mopar one costs $20-25 from a dealer and I believe Crown also offers a cheaper equivalent at roughly $15 per gasket.


Hope this helps --
David

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when this one starts leaking.

[Murdoc1905]

Finally passed emissions! Woo hoo! Don't have to worry about it now for at least 5 years. Got some new interior parts to replace old and busted ones.

Replaced my driver side seat belt because for some reason it would keep getting loose while I was driving. I got a replacement grill for my old'n busted.

I finally got around to putting a hood ornament on. Was going to put an original AMC one but all the ones I found were either in bad shape or expensive. So I went a different route and found a 1965 crystler imperial badge to use instead. Made it work with a spare spring from my atp shift kit and a windshield wiper insert. Turned out well so far, we shall see.




All and all it has been a good couple of weeks. I'm going to have to replace my driver side cv shaft soon due to a leak on the outer joint.

[RallyEagle]

Nice!