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Tips for protecting engine during slow rebuild?

Started by blk-majik, February 17, 2013, 11:08:06 AM

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blk-majik

I started a head swap and internal refresh project a while ago and got side tracked before I got too far. I've started again, and inevitably am being side tracked by two more projects. Needless to say, the car's been sitting for a while, and will likely remain that way for at least a couple more months.

I'm worried about the engine seizing up while it's sitting. Right now, the valve cover and manifolds are off, so the ar isn't in running order (cant cycle fluids). That shouldn't expose the system to much more moisture than before, but it'll only get worse as I pull the head, get the machine work done, etc.

Can any of you more experienced builders lend me some tips that can help keep the engine from freezing up during this process?

Thanks!

lapoltba

for intake/exhaust it's common to stuff clean rags/towels into the ports.  Make sure you count in and count out so you don't leave one behind.  I wouldn't worry too much about the valve covers being off, just make sure you cover things well so you don't drop something in that doesn't belong and dust doesn't settle.  Once the heads are off you can stuff some rags into the coolant channels.  For the cylinders, spray lightly with WD40 or wipe a light coat of oil and stuff a rag or cover. 

That should be sufficient, but others probably have better suggestions.

carnuck

When I go to pull a motor apart, first I trickle water down the carb while low revving to clean out as much carbon as possible. Then you can trickle ATF or get engine fogging spray (boat shops and NAPA) to spray in till it stalls.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

priya

When you get it apart lube down all the internal and mating surfaces with oil.

txjeeptx

Sta-Bil brand Fogging Oil. This stuff is great. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SBL0/22001/N1737.oap?ck=Search_N1737_-1_-1&pt=N1737&ppt=C0139 Perfect preservative ingredients.

I also use this stuff on my tools. Drill chucks, mill & lathe surfaces, hammers, anything steel that rusts from humidity while not in use. Anything. Not too greasy, doesn't attract tons of dust. Perfect.

I'll stuff mildly doused clean red rags in intake and exhaust ports of an engine or openings in a transfer case, trans, etc. Douse the cheap red rags with ATF and stuff into opening after fogging with Sta-Bil. I'll wrap the whole thing with a construction-grade trash bag if I plan on storing it for a longer time and even duct-tape the bag closed(Gorilla tape is awesome)
'82 Eagle SX/4 "Golden Eagle", '89 YJ 2.5L '93 MPI-converted rock-crawler, '79 Jeep Cherokee Golden Eagle "FSJ", 'o7 F150 Supercrew FX/4 daily driver

blk-majik

Is there any easy way to rotate the crank while the head is still on? I sprayed a bit of wd40 in the manifold ports and plugged up the holes, but I'd really like to get everything to move once in a while :) Or is this a bad idea?

priya

#6
Quote from: blk-majik on February 19, 2013, 10:59:41 AM
Is there any easy way to rotate the crank while the head is still on? I sprayed a bit of wd40 in the manifold ports and plugged up the holes, but I'd really like to get everything to move once in a while :) Or is this a bad idea?

You should be able to put a large socket and ratchet or strong arm onto the bolt holding in the harmonic balancer and turn the engine that way.  I'd say it would be a good idea to do that.  Remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn and then re-insert finger tight afterwards.  

blk-majik

You gotta take the main drive pulley off to get to the harmonic balance, right? Figured I'd ask before I make more of a mess :)

carnuck

Nope. It's in the middle of the belt pulleys and can be access from under the Eagle, even with the fan shroud in place.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

blk-majik

I think I know which one it is. Does is have two pulleys with two belts on it? AKA crankshaft pulley. If that'st he one, trying to turn it, the bolt came out without the crank moving. I torqued to tighten, but was worried about a couple things. First, over-torquing. is that an issue here? Second, am I sure this is the right bolt? not really... hence why I'm asking :)

carnuck

The one in the middle. If the motor doesn't turn and trans is in park (neutral with ebrake if stick) when turning forwards (tightening) then the motor is probably seized.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

priya


mudkicker715

Quote from: priya on February 20, 2013, 06:36:28 PM
Remove the spark plugs and then try it.

with no sparkys i bet it could be turned by hand if good.



Manitowoc WI

blk-majik

Ok, i pulled 5 of the plugs... too lazy to pull the AC compressor today to get the 6th. Should that matter? Still not budging and I feel like I'll strip the bolt if I try any harder.

Just to make sure I'm doing it right, here's a pic taken from under the car, looking up. Am I working the right pulley? I can't imaging it being anything other than this. I loosened the belt that goes tot he PS pump. Do I need to loosen the other belt, too?


carnuck

That's the right one. Undo the belts and if it still doesn't move, it's seized or the starter is stuck. (I've had LOTS of AMCs and Fords do that!)
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

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