Finally got to install the new flexplate today.
It wasn't a very difficult job, but you do need the right equipment (a lift and two transmission jacks) to do it.
If your downpipe is bad and the transmission mount is 25 years old, now is the time to put new ones in.
Don't forget to buy a new gasket for the downpipe/CC mating face.
No need to drain the oil, you will loose about a quart, that can be added once everything is back together.
Start with removing the inspection cover and the 4 bolts that hold the torque converter.
Mark the flexplate position on the converter (a paint dot on both).
Remove the exhaust downpipe.
Remove front and rear drive shafts (mark them to and remove the C-clips and put some masking tape around the bearing caps to prevent them from falling apart)
Remove the tranny filler pipe (one screw and then pull it out)
Remove the starter motor (two bolts and the + wire)
Remove the speedodrive from the T- case (mark the position with a paint dot)
Remove the everything connected to the transmission:
Cooling lines, the kickdown rod and shifter rod, vacuum motor connections and (as a special reminder for Regalwizard
) the cable to the neutral safety and reverse light switch.
Now you can set-up the transmission jack under the end of the T-case and remove the transmission support.
Lower it a bit and remove all the bolts of the bell housing.
Set-up the second jack under the transmission. You can pull the transmission to the back of the car.
When you have moved it about three inches, you will have enough space to unbolt the flexplate.
Put the new flexplate in (note the position of the old one) and tighten the bolts with the required torque and use a little loctite on them.
Slide everthing back together and start with the bell housing bolts and flexplate to converter bolts, so you are sure everything lines up well. Use loctite on the convertor bolts as well.
All other parts can be mounted in the reverse order.
Note the length of the cracks!
Topic: Cracked flexplate! (Read 9229 times)