Cracked flexplate!

[Jurjen]

Today I found out that the flexplate is cracked.

I installed new timing gear @ 80K because I thought it was ticking. It was also leaking pretty bad from the front seal. After the repair there was still a light ticking in Park and Neutral.
During driving everything was OK.
The last year the knocking got louder and I have been trying to locate the source.
The knocking sounds a bit like a big end bearing knock, but big end knock is proportional with the rpms.
This more like a rattle, like the exhaust vibrating or knocking against the body.

So I put the Eagle on a lift today (@my sons work place) and took the inspection cover of.
Only four bolts, one that is holding the reaction bar to the passenger side CV-shaft shift system.
I could see the crack immediately.
It was from one of the 4 bolts holding the torque converter, going to the left and right of the bolt hole about 2" each side! I didn't even rotate it: I knew enough, I need a new flexplate.

I have searched the forum for identical problems, but could not find them.
I have also searched the Cherokee forum and there I found multiple cracks pictures and everything.
Is it not very common for the Eagle to crack it's flexplate?

[mudkicker715]

I have 3 spares. How bad is shipping?

[Jurjen]

New flexplate from Rockauto is $30. Shipping is $60.
Are your spares new?

[SleepsUnderCars]

it seems somewhat common to me, I am sure that's what is wrong with my '85 wagon. symptoms sound exactly like what you are describing. I know Truckboy13 also had this problem.

[mudkicker715]

New flexplate from Rockauto is $30. Shipping is $60.
Are your spares new?

Thought one was new in new shape but it is not in new shape. Bad storage from where I recently acquired it.
The other 2 are used.  So for that price buy new.

[Jurjen]

I will.
Even with shipping from the US, that is a low price for a part like that.
I would probably have to pay €200 ($280) here.

[Sunny]

Ask Regalwizard about flexplates 

[Jurjen]

If it doesn't flex, it cracks.
Better rename the thing to crackplate....

[Jurjen]

Hard to resist, but I won't.

[Sunny]

Hard to resist, but I won't.

Oh I think you should.
It's a great story, really. 

While you are at it, you can ask how she ended up with a new one

[Jurjen]

Haha, still trying to resist here.
I ordered mine from the auction site today: Dorman Help 04301
Bit worried about the "Help" part

[Jurjen]

Finally got to install the new flexplate today.

It wasn't a very difficult job, but you do need the right equipment (a lift and two transmission jacks) to do it.

If your downpipe is bad and the transmission mount is 25 years old, now is the time to put new ones in.
Don't forget to buy a new gasket for the downpipe/CC mating face.
No need to drain the oil, you will loose about a quart, that can be added once everything is back together.

Start with removing the inspection cover and the 4 bolts that hold the torque converter.
Mark the flexplate position on the converter (a paint dot on both).
Remove the exhaust downpipe.
Remove front and rear drive shafts (mark them to and remove the C-clips and put some masking tape around the bearing caps to prevent them from falling apart)
Remove the tranny filler pipe (one screw and then pull it out)
Remove the starter motor (two bolts and the + wire)
Remove the  speedodrive from the T- case (mark the position with a paint dot)
Remove the everything connected to the transmission:
Cooling lines, the kickdown rod and shifter rod, vacuum motor connections and (as a special reminder for Regalwizard   ) the cable to the neutral safety and reverse light switch.


Now you can set-up the transmission jack under the end of the T-case and remove the transmission support.
Lower it a bit and remove all the bolts of the bell housing.
Set-up  the second jack under the transmission. You can pull the transmission to the back of the car.
When you have moved it about three inches, you will have enough space to unbolt the flexplate.
Put the new flexplate in (note the position of the old one) and tighten the bolts with the required torque and use a little loctite on them.
Slide everthing back together and start with the bell housing bolts and flexplate to converter bolts, so you are sure everything lines up well. Use loctite on the convertor bolts as well.
All other parts can be mounted in the reverse order.



Note the length of the cracks!

[rohnk]

I need an education please! I'm not familiar with flexplates so I do not see the obvious defects. Are you talking about around the four outer holes or the center?

[ammachine390]

Think I may have the same problem. But I'm in the same boat as rohnk, I don't see the defects, where are the cracks?

[rollguy]

An obvious one is at about 8:45 to 10:00 in the photo