So going from your first set of photos, the black two-port fitting in the manifold jacket is the ECR CTO. I believe starting in 1983 they got rid of the dual-action CTO valve which did cold spark delay (I believe it was integrated into the computer along with electronic spark retard?) and the EGR and you got that much more simplified valve. The TVS should be the blue plastic thingamajig on the back of the air cleaner with two ports. Seeing how you don't have the original air cleaner you neither have the TVS AND I've yet to find the cross-referencing Ford part (it is a Ford part originally.
In a pinch you can drive without the TVS, however the EGR will then operate unnecessarily when it's cold outside.
The single post brass fitting at the back of the manifold is your Early Fuel Evaporation switch. There's a relay in the engine bay somewhere that would be turned on/off with this and turned the heating element under the carburetor on/off.
The brass fitting at the front of the manifold with the wires clipped off flush was the coolant temperature switch for the computer. Those at least you can still buy over the counter at AutoZone.
The brake booster has only one place on the engine it will go and as you can see that's in the correct place.
I made a video a number of years back that's somewhat of a crash course on the vacuum routing and visually shows where most of the lines should go. It's different before and after 1982 but a lot of the components are still there.
https://youtu.be/hen6KRTwricRedoing the 4WD and AC vacuum lines, those are the fun ones. SelectDrive used rigid plastic lines with rubber end fittings. The fittings are mostly Ford parts but the lines you'll have to be creative because they were thin and small so they routed easily. Same with the A/C vacuum lines which I'm guessing PO didn't pull the controls out of the dash to delete the lines and you will find three small hoses running the the blend controls that are clipped and pushed under the dash. Both also need vacuum canisters (and check valves?) which would of been bolted to the firewall or down by the brake proportioning valve.
Edited:
A vented gas cap won't cause EVAP performance or vacuum issues but you'll get that gas smell on hot days. A new sealed cap is $15 anyways so if you are going to fix the EVAP system it doesn't hurt to replace the gas cap.
Watch out for the check valve hiding in the fuel return hose up by the carburetor! Once the EVAP is pressurizing the tank again if that check valve is missing the carb will chronically flood. There's also a pinhole restrictor in the port running to the charcoal canister from the fuel tank vapor line. PO may of already tossed the hose with it stuck in there.
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