"Newbie" here! I've had my Eagle since 2013, but most of that time has been spent fiddling with it in one way or another... (let's just say the previous owner was less than honest)
Much to my chagrin, what I was hoping (and initially told) wasn't going to be a major issue has turned into me needing a new engine. Now I have literally no experience in this department, which is why I've come to you guys for advice. What is my best option? As far as I can tell, the car has 82,000 miles on it and is in pretty solid shape. A local shop quoted me $3300 for a rebuild, while my mechanic was able to locate a remanufactured engine with a 3 year warranty for about $1600 (with fluids, labor, etc. it would cost me around $2200-$2500). We also found a couple of used engines for under $500, but I have no way of telling how well they run and fear ending up with another headache. Somebody suggested going with a newer Jeep engine, and another suggested I just buy another Eagle wagon and keep mine around for parts.
While buying it in the first place probably wasn't the smartest thing I ever did, I'm not just going to give up on it. It's my problem child, but I love it and it's stuck with me whether it likes it or not :)
Welcome to the Den!
I had good luck with buying a used engine off Craigslist for a great price, and had the ability to hear it run before I bought it. And I was also able to able to do the install at my friend's house, who is a pretty good shadetree mechanic. So I wouldn't necessarily be scared off by it.
However, in you case, I would go with the remanufactured engine with a warranty. Doesn't sound like you can go wrong with that, as long as the rest of the car is pretty solid.
Good luck!
I am even less of an expert than you are, but I know the 4 liter inline 6 used in Jeeps until 2006 is a popular swap. Dunno if that's what they meant by "newer engine."
Unfortunately the engines I've found on craigslist were all already pulled, so while a $300 258 would save me money right now, I think in the long run it might make more sense to get the remanned. That's how I'm leaning at the moment, anyway.
By "newer" they mean pretty much anything fuel injected, which I'm not entirely opposed to, but I did put on a brand new aluminum valve cover and Motocraft carb last summer. However for the right price, it's something I'd consider. I originally planned on keeping it stock, but after the valve cover swap that idea kind of went out the window.
Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/dakazi/instaeagle.jpg~original)
Ol' money pit. Paint's a bit dinged up and the headlights sag (among other things), but it's not bad for a Pennsylvania car. Even with all of its problems it's been a trooper.
headlight sag is an easy 8 dollar fix. Can buy the adjustment screws for cheap on eBay.
I went with the remanuactured engine in mine, it was chaper than a rebuild and I liked the three year warranty. One year down and 10,000 miles and so far all is well
Quote from: Prafeston on June 19, 2014, 08:01:36 PM
headlight sag is an easy 8 dollar fix. Can buy the adjustment screws for cheap on eBay.
You should be able to pick them up at your local auto parts store too. Get the pink ones!
Do you live in PA? I live about an hour north of Philadelphia. I have about twenty engines sitting around and I can do the swap at my shop for time and materials at a very low labor rate.
I'm in Scranton. Car was driving until my mechanic pulled the head and went to flush the coolant... He was holding on to it until I decided what I wanted to do, but just asked if I could take it back temporarily as he needed the space. Barely made it the two miles home without overheating, and now the left half of the engine is covered in oil.
I might take you up on that, if I can find somebody to help with transport.
http://allentown.craigslist.org/pts/4532472940.html
258 on Craigslist about an hour and a half from me. Supposedly a "fresh, complete rebuild" pulled from a totaled car for $150...
that's a pretty good deal on that engine, hard to say if it was really rebuilt but for that price you cant go too wrong
its worth that in scrap
That is a heck of a deal. I would ask the guy how it has been stored since being pulled to make sure it wasn't just sitting in his back yard exposed to the elements. Good luck!
Quote from: Amc1320 on June 23, 2014, 11:33:55 AM
its worth that in scrap
$150 in scrap for a 258? Dang I wish.
I got $0.09 a pound last time. That adds up to $9 for 100 pounds. An engine weighs about 300 pounds. That's a whopping $27. The entire Eagle is worth less than $300 in scrap.
By scrap I mean parting out the pieces and then selling whats left
I've seen rusted 258 crankshafts go for about $150. People use them to make strokers out of the 4.0L and they are getting harder to find.
So i found a reman site my budget is about 3k so if i can get areman for roughly 1-2k what all will have to go into the swap completely?? & will the 998 and 2.35 gears handle a 360?
Or 4.0 stroker bolt up to the 998 and transfer case? or am i better off getting a hp kit for the 4.2 and rebuilding her...
I am currently in the middle of a similar fiasco. I live in a hick town where there are NO parts available except the city, which in my case means Tacoma or Portland. Recently Olympia is finally added into the mix for suspension pieces but lets focus on the engine for now. Here's what my current billing looks like:
BILLING - $2094.28
------------
Jul 21 - Used Renix engine = $150 - Craigslist (Kirkland)
Oct 17 - Pipe plug extraction 4.0L AMC = $40.50 - BRITCO
Nov 1 - Block + Head cleaning = $60.00 - Barry's Quality Machine
-------- Magnaflux Head = $20.00
-------- Magnaflux block = $40.00
-------- Tax = $12.84
Nov 8-Feb 21 - Rebore block +0.060" = $130.00 - Barry's Quality Machine
Nov13 - Omix-Ada Gasket Set (17440.06) = $61.35 - CSE Offroad
Nov30 - Hydraulic Lifters (66031-12) = $65.68 - Crower
--------- AMC Flat Tappet Camshaft (44243) = $157.67
--------- Camshaft Assembly Lubricant (86096) = $3.08
--------- Discount ($10 OFF, Thanksgiving sale, Free shipping) = -$42.46
Dec 16 - Crown Exhaust Valves x5 = $37.55 - JC Whitney (NULL)
Dec 17 - Standard Exhaust Valves x5 = $39.95 - Morris 4x4
Jan 15 - Premium Stem Seals x12 = $12 - Barry's Quality Machine
Feb 21 - '92 Cherokee Manifold Gasket Set = $13.85 - NAPA
Mar 11 - '96 Cherokee throttle body = $53.15 - Pick n Pull Vancouver
Mar 12 - '99 Grand Cherokee intake manifold = $51.26 - Pick n Pull Lakewood
Mar 17 - Engine paint = $6.59 - O'Reilly
--------- 6x Freeze Plugs = $5.78
--------- Camshaft Plug = $0.79
--------- Cylinder head Plug = $0.79
--------- Sealed Power Cam bearing set = $32
Mar 31 - Speed Pro Hyper Pistons = $98 - Summit Racing (NULL)
--------- Sealed Power Piston Rings = $78
--------- Fel-Pro Head Bolts = $40
--------- Omix-Ada Timing Chain Guide - $6
Apr 28 - Keith Black Piston Set 3241HC-060 = $179 - Summit Racing
May 12-Jun 27 - Crankshaft Reconditioning x2 = $463.32 - Barry's Quality Machine
--------- Grind crankshaft 0.010" = $240
--------- Grind 2nd crank 0.010" = $0
--------- Heat-press rods with new pistons = $36
--------- Balance/Fill crankshaft = $150
--------- Tax = $37.32
May 16 - Clean Intake Manifold = $0
May 22 - '93 Injector Rail = $14.88
May 24 - NP229 Transfer Case core = $109.30
Jun 7 - Headlight bucket set = $20 - Pick N Pull North
--------- Thermostat Housing = $4
Jun 20 - '96 XJ 4.0L Wiring Harness = $100 - 205 Auto Wrecking
Jun 28 - Sealed Power Rod Bearings 0.010" = $40 - O'Reilly
Jul 15 - Lunati Valve Locks 7º 1 groove = $11 - Summit Racing
--------- Sealed Power Main Bearing Set 0.010" 7211M10 = $62
Jul 31 - Harmonic Balancer = $80 - Summit Racing
Oh and I'm constantly in hangup because Summit and O'Reilly keep derping and sending me the wrong items. Typical consistent GMC/AMC hearing failure when going back and forth with makes and models. I need the time gear and oil pump before I can start building but because I'm insane and like doing all the work myself, I'm in the market for special tools like a Piston Ring Filer and possibly an Oil Pump Primer. I originally decided to rebuild the 258 but when I tore the last one open and saw what all went wrong with it, I arrived at the conclusion that rebuilding would result in the same anemic behavior with very little improvement besides not having to worry about constant excessive blowby. This is why I scrapped everything but the crank and decided to go with a bored, stroked, cammed, injected, shielded 285 that has become a valiant uphill battle against my sanity. Is it worth it? Probably not but it will be a LOT of fun when it's finished. I know this. :)
There's one more thing. My Eagle has been seemingly incomplete ever since I first bought it. This has put me in the habit of looking around junkyards to fill in the missing pieces and that's opened me up to a world of what this car was "supposed" to be. I recently hit the grand jackpot for restoring the suspension and possibly the entire interior minus headliner. So that's been a fun distraction too. I'm going to indulge on these labors in the morning now that I have some time off.
So what about this. would the 998/904 bolt directly to the 4.0? maybe i can by it and strip it before it gets ran and drop my 258 crank from the current engine? core is only 285 so i could just keep my old engine for parts..
I see no reason why it won't bolt up. I see plenty of reasons why it won't work. If you're modifying a 4.0 with a bigger crank, you're going to have problems if it isn't a full rebuild. Keep that in mind. If you intend to do fuel injection on the 4.0 with the Torqueflite behind it, expect poor reliability with the expensive crank sensor up front or drilling a hole to mount one in the Torqueflite bell, getting the appropriate wiring harness and ultra rare computer, flexplate and modifying the original wire block assembly.
If you decide to go with the 4.0 L route, I have one that already has the oil pan switched over as well as the different style exhaust that clears the front diff. The engine has sat in my garage since earlier this year when I bought it from a 1993 Jeep Cherokee with 140k, it ran when it was in the Cherokee. I live near Bloomsburg, PA. If you are interested feel free to message me.
Quote from: dleberfinger on August 08, 2014, 04:23:35 PM
If you decide to go with the 4.0 L route, I have one that already has the oil pan switched over as well as the different style exhaust that clears the front diff.
This is an area that I wondered about when I first started the teardown. The oil pump can be either or. The pump pickup and pan HAVE to be the older 258 model. The newer 4.0L pan does NOT clear the engine cross member and the 4.0L oil pump pickup isn't compatible with the 258 pan. :-\
SOOOOO all in all from yals experience everything other than rebuilding my 258 is gonna be a head ache... Im totally okay with buying an omnix head and getting a rebuild kit for my pistons rods ect and Going that route. heck i'd probably hae money left over for a shift kit in the 998
Cause i should be able to do a rebuild kit and throw an aggressive cam and make a fun mobile.
If you rewind the 998, you can go with a 999 case and flexplate from a YJ with 4.0L to go EFI (or TJ) so it's an easy swap afterwards.
Oh, and when you order most motor parts, tell them is a Jeep Wrangler @ '87 for motor parts and it'll almost always cure the Derp Squad screwups!
Been thinking a bit.... If i buy a brand spanking new 4.0H.O head and bolt her on can i use my stock Intake/Exhaust manifolds and go with the Motorcraft Conversion kit and keep her that route?
The 4.0 head uses a different exhaust port design and you have to use a 4.0 exhaust manifold. It requires some custom exhaust fab.
Explain Fab.. Like easy fab or i may need a whole case of budlight to keep from smashing my new head with a hammer fab??
http://www.hescosc.com/products/7735/cylinder-heads/42907/cylinder-head-conversion-kit-hes4240chc#.U-pZbBqkp3I is this a good deal or is there another retailer out there with better parts for the price?
OR http://www.rebuiltcrateengines.com/jeepamc-40l47l-wrangler-p-2146.html
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51107_0005.htm
http://www.autopartsfair.com/jeep-car_engines/wrangler-1988-rebuilt_engines-amc_258lb_6.html?campaign=theautochannel
http://www.jeep-engines.com/engines/jeep4.2literengine.htm
Quote from: AMCLOVER258 on August 12, 2014, 02:04:19 PM
Explain Fab.. Like easy fab or i may need a whole case of budlight to keep from smashing my new head with a hammer fab??
Fab as in custom exhaust to connect the 4.0 exhaust manifold to the existing exhaust.
Quote from: AMCLOVER258 on August 09, 2014, 11:53:15 AM
SOOOOO all in all from yals experience everything other than rebuilding my 258 is gonna be a head ache...
No here's the real issue. The Eagle is a light body hotrod that doesn't need a big engine that can't breathe. It's the typical "too young to die, too drunk to live" scenario with engineering. The 258 is a great engine choice for Jeeps but in the AMC it suffers from a low breathing profile and very torquey low end with a poor middle and NO top end. I would be all for using a 232 for a bottom end and injecting it with a high flow head and late 1999+ intake. The transmission is archaic and deprecated. Nobody knows what the A-998 is and despite being the easiest thing to rebuild, mechanics tend to go full retard on it whenever one arrives on their work bench. AVOID.
Quote from: AMCLOVER258 on August 09, 2014, 11:53:15 AM
i'd probably hae money left over for a shift kit in the 998
The Eagle needs a shift kit for improved function but it would be more appropriate for an overdrive automatic like the AW4 or a 700R4, At this point, I would junk all of that for a 6-spd gearbox with a 2-spd 4WD case.
That's another point. These birds are in desperate need of upgrades and even THOSE tend to be obsolete. In other words, it's an uphill battle. Is it worth it? I don't know. I'm still in the middle of my fight.
Quote from: DaemonForce on August 13, 2014, 03:19:49 AM
That's another point. These birds are in desperate need of upgrades...
I can't imagine where you get that idea from. I couldn't be more pleased with my 258 and 998 - they are not in the slightest need of an upgrade.
Quote from: priya on August 13, 2014, 12:53:05 PM
I can't imagine where you get that idea from.
From having to pull the engine or transmission every year because either one blew up. This car is a great utility but horribly weak and seems to get much worse with each dumb mechanic that gets their hands on the parts. My driving is 90% freeway and 10% backwoods. There is no excuse for this noise but it continues to happen.
Quote from: DaemonForce on August 13, 2014, 02:44:50 PM
From having to pull the engine or transmission every year because either one blew up. This car is a great utility but horribly weak and seems to get much worse with each dumb mechanic that gets their hands on the parts. My driving is 90% freeway and 10% backwoods. There is no excuse for this noise but it continues to happen.
I find it hard to believe you're not grossly exagerating. You are virtually the only one with such complaints, the vast majority of people have no major problems with the Eagle drivetrain. The problem is almost certainly what you're doing to the car rather than the car itself. The Eagle was never intended to be a "backwoods" car, it is not an off-road car, it was designed as basic transportation in low tractions conditions and it excels at that. If you think its such a horrible car sell it and get something else.
He doesn't have the mechanic taking care of his car that you do. ;)
I don't use mine as a backwoods beast car, but I do go to my cabin and I do tow stuff. The previous owner of my Eagle gave up on it after the 3rd 998 trans (and his wife passing as it was really her car) Torque converter neck was broken when I got it so I went with a 727 I already had. Since it was already out, I went to a NP229 tcase which has low range locked and improved the traction.
Better gearing (factory ratio, but a better axle than the Model 15 with 2 piece axles that almost killed the sales of Eagles in '82 due to breakage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg369klCiIU
More power and less emission rubbish that was only a panacea compared to what we know now. Fuel injection or LPG is in the cards for mine. I already have an XJ tank set to fit in the back.
More ground clearance because getting in and out of low riders is really hard on my knees and bashing the underside of my 4x4 car on the stupidly tall speed bumps and potholes we have here in Seattle is ridiculous.
You guys crack me up... lol umh yeah i actually found a REALLLLLLYYYY good deal today a reman for 1399.00 175.00 for shipping no up front core and 7 year 100,000 mile warranty so im REALLLYYY leaning towards that route! and i got out today and primed my passenger side, got all my emblems Amc blue trunk black and 2 amc blue stripes and she looks as OUTSTANDING!
So today i was really slow at work and decided to do some research and apparently some jeeps equiped with the 304 Came with the a-998. If i buy a crate will she bolt up??
The front differential is supported by the engine. The 304 will not have the provisions to bolt up the differential. The engine mounts are also most likely different.
I can't help but wonder if this situation would be much easier if the car in question was a Concord or Spirit. When you put a V block engine in an Eagle, you're changing a LOT of essential pieces that are critical to the Eagle identity. You're getting rid of the IFS Dana 30, appropriate spring balance, the crossmember gets changed along with the vacuum and exhaust system. Hood might be a little more appropriate with a blower and the 4WD functionality might be retained with a straight axle(and a bit of work) but nobody wants that. There's a few reasons I have no interest in Jeeps and that's a pretty fair chunk of it. Aside from all of that, you're probably looking for a 2WD transmission and that is not what the Eagle is about.
??? The AMC V8 has been done in an Eagle several times, BUT it requires some custom work. A non-engine dependent front axle hanger and modding the engine crossbar with Bulltear weld in V8 motor mount brackets (offset to the passenger's side like the 6) Custom exhaust and rad.
But im a speed demon and my eagle isn't.... lol i may be better off just getting another project to make fast and keep my eagle the way she is... IDK. Thanks For the input! i think theres a matador for sale about 40 minutes north of my in Cincinnati i may go after 0.o
If you really want more power, just build a 4.6L stroker for your Eagle. You can get 270 hp and over 300 ft-lbs torque out of one relatively easy. And it would fit with the least modification.
Woah there sparky. You would think that's a good idea but when I attempt builds like that the supplies are light and the numbers appear a bit higher than I really want. The Eagle was already a speed demon with a tired 258 that died at every stop sign and puked oil everywhere. A big cammed, injected and shielded 285 is my one stop solution for this but if I end up having over 300hp/400tq at the engine alone, there's going to be a serious problem keeping it on the ground. Unfortunately, I find myself cleaning more than modifying.
The entire front end looks beyond pathetic and I have little patience for all the worn out bushings, paint scrubs and excessive dry mud cluttering parts that shouldn't be so messy. No rust here but Jesus it's annoying. :banghead: The only thing keeping me from proceeding is finding an OBDII (96+) computer from a Cherokee that had a manual transmission mated to the 4.0L. So far I'm convinced they don't exist. This is like a panic attack and I'm probably going to visit Torgerson or some archaic boneyard before finally giving up and then shelling out $$$$ for Chrysler to reflash some crappy computer that's likely to cause worse problems than the carb'd 258. Yay. :-\
Someone mentioned the oil pump/pickup on the 4.0 not working with the 4.2L pan.
If I'm doing the full 4.0 / AW4 / 231 conversion is this something I have to contend with??
Do you have to haphazardly attempt to drop in a new 4L to find out? Just do some measuring on the oil pan and you'll see three problems:
• The lowest section of the 4L pan is too big to clear the engine crossmember
• The oil pumps have nearly identical design
• The oil pump pickups use their respective oil pan
There have been issues noted with all three. I'm probably going to go with a 4L oil pump just because I like the bigger selection for this engine but aside from that, the crankcase and pistons, my parts are intended for a 258. Any other combination would be a worse situation than trying to force a square peg through a round hole and you really don't need that kind of headache.
I'm using the 4.2L oil pan with my 4.0L (from a 94 XJ) when I do my swap. Do you think I'll come into a problem if I just stick the pan onto my 4.0L?
You sure will. The oil pickup tube stays with the respective pan.
Each different designed pan must have the matching pump screen with it. It's not hard or rocket science.
Never removed any of this before...it's my first swap. I'm an engine swap virgin.
Anything I might need to buy?
4' long extension and impact quality swivel sockets 1/2", 9/16", 5/8" and 15 mm. Breaker bar and quality ratchet. First time in 4 years I helped do a motor swap between yesterday and today (not quite done) on a '98 GMC 4x4 with Vortec 350.
Avoid doing it on gravel! If you have to, then use thick plywood to roll the hoist on.
Triple check everything is loose and check again as you lift and even go so far as to catalog which bolts go where and take photos to remind you. Bell housing bolts are the worst part. If you have the AC, then the hole for the drain through the floor allows you access to the top center bolt. I do the bottom 2 bolts last (even with the crank and bigger than the others) with the hoist attached and a chain to hold the trans up under the bell. The 2 or 3 small splash pan bolts come off first, then the Converter bolts and if the trans torque converter pops forward more than 3/4", you will get an ATF shower, even with a drained transmission.
In the Eagle, if you plan to change motor and trans it is possible to do them together, BUT solid ground keeps you from being crushed by a hoist flipping over. Never do that part alone and preferably with someone strong and experienced if you aren't. Slow and steady keeps you alive!
I have a friend who happens to me a 25 year long mechanic doing most of the work (with all required tools). I'm there to do what needs to be done and buy all the necessary parts lol.
As long as the oil pan swap doesn't necessitate buying anything new besides a new gasket I'm happy ;)
I'll be doing a write up with pix after to the swap. Prior to it (this week or so) I'll be making a final post with my plan of action, the parts I'm buying, and so on, so I can be picked apart to ensure it's done smoothly.
I have to find the link on my personal computer at home, but I came across an engine building company on the west coast that sells 4.6l stroker engines for $2000 shipped and something like a 60,000 or 100,000 mile warranty (with certified mechanic installation).
That would be a pretty big waste of money if the builder didn't know they're making it for an AMC. Might want to keep that in mind. :/
Quote from: DaemonForce on August 27, 2014, 12:11:45 PM
That would be a pretty big waste of money if the builder didn't know they're making it for an AMC. Might want to keep that in mind. :/
Can you clarify that? I'm not understanding what you're trying to say.
Oil pan, belt style, intake/power steering, exhaust...Well, it's not an issue for anyone reading these threads because we fully understand what's going on but the parts and arrangement of accessories that are on a traditional 4.0L directly conflict with simply fitting one into a Hornet or Eagle. It's not a simple drop-in replacement and you know that.
If you were to buy an stroker engine from a builder, it would be a long block so most of that wouldn't matter except for the oil pan and it might not even include that.
When you put it that way it just seems a bit expensive to me. I guess I have more time than money. :-\
IMO you'd be better off finding a 4.0 with lower KM sitting in a OBD1 Cherokee that you can hear running. Should be able to dig all that up for $600 or so, snag the whole XJ with the engine, transmission and transfer case.
Buy the gasket set for rebuilding the engine if you have any doubts. Pull the 4.0 apart, have the head checked to see if it needs decking/planing and whatnot. Pull the crank and rods from the 4.2, have them looked at to ensure they aren't crap.
Replace the 4.0 crank and rods with the 4.2L, there's your ghetto stroker. Toss the old 727 and t-case from the Eagle. Slap the newer drivetrain in with OBD1, profit...if you're running that stock trans and t-case with a stroked motor good luck.
That's sort of my plan right now, except the drivetrain is going in and I'm stroking it down the road. I found a XJ that was running for $250 (body rusted to snot), buying the rest of what I need for around $250-300 (engine runs nicely), and all I need to do now is the swap.
For the price of a rebuilt engine, you can have a much beefier and better performing car with a lot of new goodies under the hood. If you have more time than anything, than you know that making a few low cost local purchases is where it's at. Take a look at options you can do locally before blowing a huge wad of cash on a rebuilt motor.
Take the time to do it right and you get exactly what you want...and you can modernize your Eagle for less in the process :)
Quote from: DaemonForce on August 27, 2014, 01:48:04 PM
When you put it that way it just seems a bit expensive to me. I guess I have more time than money. :-\
About 8 years ago, when I had my Mustang SVO, I spent over $2,000 in machine work and assembly on a 2.3L engine. I supplied all the parts. $2,000 for a rebuilt engine seems like a good deal to me. Not that I have $2,000 to throw around.
The third time our 1999 Subaru fried its head gaskets it was too warped to repair and our only option was a crate engine for $3,200. We let it sit for a year before I found a low mileage engine someone bought for $1,500 and then sold to me for $1,000. That is normal prices to pay for newer cars.
Most reman Jeep engines are $1,200 for a short block and 2,500 for a long block. Several place offer the stroker but its about $3,200. The $2,000 price sounds too good to be true.
You might think that's expensive but you will buy a car for $600, lug it home, fight rust and take 30 man hours cutting it up, the engine will sit in your garage for a year or two, then you'll spend about 40 hours cleaning and rebuilding and about $300 in gaskets, then you'll install it and it might break in a few months. Been there, done that.
$3,200 for a crate to show up with a warranty, chemical acid wash all the grease an rust off, nicely tapped holes, fresh bored and decked engine perfectly true, and a warranty with confidence. It can be ordered and installed in a week instead of hunting and rummaging for a year. Best deal ever.
For me, that price tag is too high. Maybe it's because where I live we have a few well known engine rebuilders who have good rates and would rebuild an engine, or build a stroker, for about $1000-1500 depending on the engine and what was wanted.
Found it. It's the one Brentmo is using in his '83 SX/4 project, and I'm entirely jealous: http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43044.0;all
4.7l Stroker:
https://www.sandjengines.com/Engines/Details?partNumber=AMC-288LB-1&type=auto-engines&make=JEEP&model=JEEP&subModel=_&productApplicationID=10626 (https://www.sandjengines.com/Engines/Details?partNumber=AMC-288LB-1&type=auto-engines&make=JEEP&model=JEEP&subModel=_&productApplicationID=10626)
For a lot of people, engine building is quite intimidating; it requires a plethora of tools, takes much time and planning, and can be easily botched (which can cause exponential repairs, costs, and safety concerns). For those of us who are brave enough to do it on our own, it is quite possible to do it on a budget. However, when you factor in the man hours it requires, it all depends on your income and how much you really value your time. In comparison to what guys spend on their performance engine builds and pristine show cars to win a plastic trophy, $2000 is a drop in the bucket.
In my case, if I had the money, that would be unbelievable. With a 40 hour work week and the Eagle being my only daily driver, that engine could be swapped in over a weekend and not have any down time. Granted, I could buy a newer car for that price, but I wouldn't have gotten my Eagle in the first place had I wanted to go that route. When it's done, I'll have built my dream car.
Quote from: Nightpath on August 27, 2014, 06:42:46 PM
For me, that price tag is too high. Maybe it's because where I live we have a few well known engine rebuilders who have good rates and would rebuild an engine, or build a stroker, for about $1000-1500 depending on the engine and what was wanted.
Keep in mind, though, they may build you that stroker for $1500, but you still have to supply the block and crank...
Which can be found very easily ;)
They charge a $400 core charge, so I would assume it would still be $2,000+ if you supplied your own engine.
If I had the money and was doing a total restoration of a sweet condition Eagle that would be a bangin deal. The builders here would charge about 25% less I think, but then it'd be a waiting game.
That engine looks really nice though. Had to wipe away a bit of drool.
I have a stroker in pieces in my shed I've been trying to find time/energy (when I wasn't working) since '02 to put together
I think I know why the difference in ideals regarding pro rebuilt engines, and why I'm kind of shocked at the high prices you guys are quoting for used motors.
In my area (Nova Scotia) there's a LOT of rust from salty air, salt on the roads, salt salt salt...and moisture. Engines really aren't affected by it for some reason, so there's a lot of low KM vehicles that were never undercoated properly or at all. Like my XJ, thing is Swiss cheese but the engine runs smooth as butter, quiet as a whisper.
It's the same reason why a lot of car guys around here LOVE to go up north to find old cars. Bodies are in amazing condition but the engines/trans are usually shot.
In saying this, some engines around here fetch a premium...the old 258 in running condition is one of them that does to the right people.
Around here (in PA), the 4.0 has to be the most common engine in the yard. I could probably pick out 10 of them sitting in XJs and WJs. On the other hand, older jeeps and wranglers are usually the first ones stripped, so 258s are hard to come by at the yard. Craigslist is a different story though, the 258 will pop up all the time. Prices vary.