New Car, new eagle owner, new problems

[Nephrim]

Hey everyone! New to all this. Never been much of a car person, but I'm good with my hands and if I can tear it apart, I can put it back together!
Here's my lil story: saw a badass car the other day at the gas station. So cool in fact I took a picture and showed my mechanic/tattoo artist/friend. He kindly pointed out that the car of my dreams was an AMC eagle. This one to be exact: https://goo.gl/photos/aeg9nbkXCRtpjs3y6
As luck would have it, exactly 2 weeks later I saw this car on Craigslist around 10pm. An hour after he posted it. He said it blew out a bearing and he wanted 1200. What could it hurt to go look at it? Looking it over I immediately fell in love with this car. I ended up buying it off him for $700.
This was on Monday. On Wednesday I took it to the shop (barely without being thrown into traffic) where they replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings, seals, and gaskets for $244. They did however show me some crushing details. The frame of my dear new (old) car is completely rusted out on the front left right before the wheel, where it arches up at 90°. https://goo.gl/photos/NS83vJW17oJ63Vwe8
https://goo.gl/photos/5zkE3TS5Rop9yXkb9
https://goo.gl/photos/LJRLz4P2bY5TwnK58

However, after discussing the possibilities with my mechanic/tattoo artist/friend. I believe we're gonna do some fabricating. We're planning on cutting off the frame, and building a tubular one from scratch. All the tools, work, etc will be done by my two friends. One a mechanic for 35 years, and the other a welder (the best of the best) for 20 years. I'm looking for ALL input on how to go about doing this. They have the knowledge, but I'd like to hear from you gurus!!! What issues will we run into? What frame build works best? Will the new frame support the car equally as well as the factory? You could say I'm paranoid, but rightfully so when my budget is so tight.

In other news, I'm taking her to a inspection today to have all her fluids changed and checked out. Let's pray for good news. Things I know it needs is a valve cover seal/gasket (top of the engine, seal is shot and is leaking oil), as well as a donut gasket for tlwhere the engine meets exhaust. Where should I purchase these?? Will any auto parts store carry them?

I also have a question which in searching on here has puzzled others. When I start my beautiful machine, she idles roughly like she's choking on something. I have to give her some gas consistently to keep her from stalling out. Even still, I usually stall out when changing into drive. What would cause this?? It's disheartening to say the least.

As far as other info, here it is:
1984 AMC Eagle 4dr wagon. Original 258 straight six with 163,000 miles. I believe a different distributer is in it. Running 15x7 Jeep rims with Hankook all terrains LT215/75/15. All original paint. Comes with a CB radio installed and 8 foot antennas on top! Lolol

Pictures:
https://goo.gl/photos/aLXyaBcXZJQ8GWKU6
https://goo.gl/photos/MPNog74GXf7kcf3g7
https://goo.gl/photos/sSX4B8AXBcc15KtX7
https://goo.gl/photos/EwF9y3dXvi2JXUD96
https://goo.gl/photos/qcHb7FuYPkrZikzv9
https://goo.gl/photos/HTMRM7q4cFwmhMnM6
https://goo.gl/photos/s32fUrSJBxiKz9jXA
https://goo.gl/photos/1jYfQCjcoVJ3F5ct6


Thanks for stopping by! Please educate me on anything I've said or settings you see! Thank you all again
-Neph

[johnbendik]

Neph,

Congratulations, dude!  Looks like you got a pretty good deal if the frame rot is the only big problem (and it's only present in that one place).  As it happens, I have a very similar model: 1984 wagon with the 258 and about 163,000 miles, same color and same interior... except I got the 5-speed.

One positive thing I noticed from your pictures: the PO has already replaced the funky original valve cover with a nice aftermarket one.  The original was made of plastic, leaked like a sieve, and is often one of the first things that gets replaced on a newly-bought Eagle.

I think the plan to build an all-tubular chassis is awfully ambitious, especially since you say your budget is tight.  You implied the labor would be 'free', but still... that is a huge job with a lot of possibly-expensive forks in the road.  Since you have access to a first-class welder, have you considered seeing if he could just rebuild/replace the bad bits of the original uni-body structure?  It would be a lot faster, meaning that you could enjoy your new toy that much sooner...

Good luck with whatever you decide to do,
JB

[Nephrim]

Hey JB, thanks for the advice. However it's turning into a project that needs more money than I can afford. So far the list is:
-New frame/repair frame
-Tie end rods
-Rotors
-Brake pads
-New seals for the ENTIRE engine.
-New bell housing
-Alignment
-Donut gasket
-Timing/float adjusted
And the list keeps growing. At this point I just have to try to get the $1000 I have into it back out

[mo.eagles]

Rock Auto has most of that stuff for good prices. Bell housing for an automatic ? Am I  seeing that sign correctly ? Is gas  $1.75 in Ohio ?

[Nephrim]

Rock Auto has most of that stuff for good prices. Bell housing for an automatic ? Am I  seeing that sign correctly ? Is gas  $1.75 in Ohio ?

Yeah they do, and with a little patience and time it may be possible, but I unfortunately need a running car immediately!

However, would someone be able to walk me through adjusting the float and timing on the carb?