Substitute Window Channel Seals

[amarshall]

I needed to replace the crumbling window channels in my 88 Wagon, and looked in the usual places for a replacement.  There are a couple sources typically mentioned here, but I couldn't find a source with 90 degree molded corners.  Some were sold by the foot, and you would need to cut a corner yourself by trimming some material.

I found a good substitute seal from a Jeep Wrangler.  The TJ wranglers from 1998-2006 sometimes had full steel doors with roll-up windows.  These channels have hard molded corners at the front corner, but the channel can simply be flipped.  I ordered a set of 2 from RockAuto for about $25, the Fairchild KD1012 and they work well.  You would need 2 kits (4 pieces) to do all the doors on a wagon.

Note that the seals are exactly the same width on the Jeep and the AMC's, but the Jeep seals are a little shallower/shorter.  In other words, the AMC channels (the steel doors) are a little deeper than the Jeep's.  On my wagon the seals originally had about 1/8" visible to the outside when the window was closed.  The Jeep seals are exactly flush with the steel door so nothing is visible from the outside.  There is no functional difference and I'm very happy with the fit and the price.

[amarshall]

Here is an image of the 1/8" size difference.  The window on the left has an original seal and my finger is touching a little bit that is exposed.  The window on the right has been replaced with the Jeep seal and is completely flush to the door.



Here's a shot of the corner showing the molded corner.  The ruler was there to show that the seal is flush with the door, not a great shot though.



There is one other difference with the Jeep seals.  They have some relief cuts to help with some of the Jeep door curves, as in the photo below.  On an Eagle, these land in the straight section of the door near the mirror.  No problem at all, can't even tell they are there once installed.

[rmick]

Check with Tennessee Farmer in the forum I bought mine from him reasonable price as well.

[Firebolt0788]

so im sorry but im new on here and it seems like tons of the images are all broken links or not able to be viewed even on the new topics such as this one ... anyone have any insight on how to fix this ?

this is from viewing on my up to date computer and phone ?

[amarshall]

On this specific post, the problem is likely my fault.  I'm fairly new around here also, and not sure I've figured out how to post images yet.  I'll try to edit.

[Firebolt0788]

whatever you did fixed it 

[amarshall]

whatever you did fixed it 

Great, thanks for letting me know!

[DAVE]

how much extra did you have on these just curious if they would have enough for a 2 door eagle

[amarshall]

There was at least 10" extra on both ends that I trimmed.  Hang tight for a day or tow and I can measure one. I didn;t install them all yet so I have a couple that are uncut.

[racerkilla]

Did you pull the door panels and install the new rubber all the way down into the track. I know on the 2 doors that rubber goes almost to the bottom of the door front and back. Curious if it would work on a 2 door. Much cheaper then anything else out.

[amarshall]

I was lazy for the first one I installed and didn't pull the door panel.  I just shoved as much as I could into the long track and clipped the rest.

I measured a fresh one.  The short leg is 19" from the corner, and the long one is 60 1/2".  I don't know how long the door is on a coupe, but that seems plenty long to me.

[racerkilla]

I think on a 2 door that will still come up short. I measure 19 from top of the glass and only gets you to the upper part of door handle. I know that channel rubber extends almost to the bottom of the door. It is what holds the glass tight when the window is down. Maybe if you left some old in and spliced it would be fine. Most of the time every bit of that rubber is rock hard and brittle.  Same goes for the front wont reach to the bottom of the track either.

[amarshall]

Makes sense, this may not be a perfect solution.  Does the full track need to be filled?  Seems like a little missing at the bottom may work, as long as the top is secure.  When I finally get to installing the other 3 doors, I'll pull the panels and try to do it right.  And will take some pictures.

[racerkilla]

I like to have the full track on my 2 doors. When the window is down that track is what keeps the window tight inside the door along with the sweeps. This is a great idea for the 4 doors or if the rubber still good inside the doors. 2 of my amx's and sx/4 rubber was rock hard and had to be chipped out of the entire track. I found a supplier online for the 2 door but close to 75 shipped for pair. But with the money I have in them what another 75 at that point lol.

[vangremlin]

I like to have the full track on my 2 doors. When the window is down that track is what keeps the window tight inside the door along with the sweeps. This is a great idea for the 4 doors or if the rubber still good inside the doors. 2 of my amx's and sx/4 rubber was rock hard and had to be chipped out of the entire track. I found a supplier online for the 2 door but close to 75 shipped for pair. But with the money I have in them what another 75 at that point lol.

I guess another option would be to buy one extra window channel, trim off what you need from the straight side, and splice it into the window track down in the door.  Just tossing out an idea here.  I'll need to be doing the same thing to my coupe as the rubber is as you described, rock hard, and already missing some sections.  If you try this out, please let us know how it works!  Thanks.