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Aftermarket slave master hydraulic clutch

Started by 85AmCfreak, November 25, 2016, 09:49:51 AM

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85AmCfreak

Ok so I'm having an issue with my brand new clutch master I bought recently it seems the seals are blown and I'm sucking are in. Very strange because I'm not leaking fluid anywhere but non the less I'm thinking of using an aftermarket part from wilwood. Here's the part I have in mind.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-6088

Has anyone tried this or have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I Don't know why. But everybody's always talking about their STI or That guys EVO, I think I'll stick with my old, but reliable AmC. Did I ever tell you I was Full blooded Eagle?

85AmCfreak

I Don't know why. But everybody's always talking about their STI or That guys EVO, I think I'll stick with my old, but reliable AmC. Did I ever tell you I was Full blooded Eagle?

AMC of Houston

I've never had a manual-trans Eagle -- don't know why tho.   I did lash up a Wilwood slave on a neighbor's Mercedes Gullwing kit car a while back.   You can make anything work with a good welder!!

Only advice I could add is to get a slave with the same diameter bore as the AMC original (I don't know what that diameter is), so the pedal travel will be the same as you're used to.

Good luck with it.
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo
'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
'10 Nissan Maxima

85AmCfreak

Hey Houston thanks for the reply, I know the bore is the same but I'm not sure of the throw/stroke.
I Don't know why. But everybody's always talking about their STI or That guys EVO, I think I'll stick with my old, but reliable AmC. Did I ever tell you I was Full blooded Eagle?

AMC of Houston

I wouldn't worry much about the stroke if the new one is the same or longer than the original.   You should be able to fine-tune/tweak that with the linkage adjustment at the pedal rod, so the pedal hits the floor before you bottom out the clutch and/or slave cylinders.   Or if you don't want the pedal to go that low, add a stop to the pedal arm that'll hit the floor before any damage can be done.

If its shorter, of course may run out of travel before the clutch cylinder releases the clutch.

May take some fiddling, but I bet it can be done!     Easy to say when its someone else's car!!

Good luck; and be sure to let us know how much of a pain it was.
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo
'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
'10 Nissan Maxima

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