Looking to do a 727 (update:or 999) swap. Is this the right one?

[TEagle85]

So back with another trans question.  working on pulling the current 998 to rebuild and update it as much as possible. Willing to drop a little cash on the rebuild so I don't have to worry about it as much and also get a little more performance. Figure it will be a butt load of my time and after the parts be around $400-500?

Came across this on CL near me, looks pretty fresh. Would it be a bolt on for the 258? I'm pretty sure its a lock up torque converter on my current setup but would be getting a new one anyway so doesn't really matter I guess.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/5470185104.html
 
Reads: tf999 trans with 1200 miles on it, hd clutches&steels and vent relocated,removed for v8 conversion

Asking $350

Also will note Im rebuilding a 242 T-case to mount to it.

[TEagle85]

also emailed to ask what year its from but I think pre 90' is what you need,  before they switched to the computer controlled Torque converter
 
Update, from a 88' so now just need to think is it worth going the used 999 route or for the same amount rebuild my 998. Think Im going to go for it. he also has a tf999 there that has been overbuild with poly bushing, seals etc, with the torque converter for $550.

Will that 88' tf999 bolt to a NP242 fine? 

[carnuck]

Again, they changed the converter to flexplate bolt pattern around '88. If it's a Jeep 4.0L style starter, then the bolt pattern is even and the teeth for the ring gear are 10 mm closer to the motor.

[TEagle85]

Thanks carnuck, Ill look into a little more, paying attention to that area. Pulling my trans slowly this week and going to check that 999 out so at least Ill have some reference pictures. I know Im going to learn some lessons on this trans T-case swap but thats probably the best any only way to learn (and blow money).

[carnuck]

Too bad you're not closer to me. I have a '99 TJ  with 4.0L 999 bare case in the pile that is going away. It has the bolt in rear sprague (needed for heavy loads or hill climbing) and coupled with a braze welded billet torque converter neck, it becomes almost bullet proof. As for the NV242, make sure it's 23 spline and not too shallow. '87-90 XJ ones are 21 spline with AW4 or BA 10/5 standard trans.

[TEagle85]

Thats one reason Im looking at that 999, non lock up converter and then I can get the braze welded billet torque converter neck (whenever I find it online) 
will miss the lock up on the highway but does it really make that much of a difference between the two.  Basically your handing off better millage for strength? Higher RPMs on the highway?
Can I put in a bolt in sprag in my current 998, or a 999 or is that a factory thing?

seeing them here for the 727, assuming that will slip into the 998/999?
http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/127000/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710579318&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CJTZ8O2loMsCFQ4zaQod84kKhQ

[carnuck]

999 comes in lockup and non-lockup version. They make a bolt in for 727, but not sure for the A904 hydraulic lockup version of the trans.

I guess there is! http://www.aandatrans.com/departments/chrysler-727-trans/bolt-in-sprag.aspx

[TEagle85]

thanks for the link. Would it matter if it were lock up or not for that bolt in sprag? I dont see it posted anywhere if the bolt in sprag is for a spacific 904/998/999?
Id like to get it for either the 999 non lock I get or if I decide to rebuild my 998 lock up.  sorry for side tracking this thread.

[carnuck]

The sprague is different 727 to 9xx. Aside from that, I don't know of any difference other than maybe 9XX (aka 32RH) to 32RE (999 with electric converter lockup control in the valvebody)

The lockup converter needs the correct valvebody, input shaft and '79 or newer case (with correct passages for fluid pressure)

[TEagle85]

update the trans and T-case are out.   

With it out and not started on I feel like this is a good time to give myself more of a headache of options.
What would you do??

------Either just rebuild my 998 to some decent specs and then rebuild by stock T-case?----- 
Saw midwest trans sells remanufactured viscus couplers. Mine feels fine but I think there is chain slop and thats what I noticed on the highway when maintaining speed. Felt like there was slack in the drivetrain like when you let off and accelerated slightly there would be a small jerk. Thats why I decided to pull everything for a rebuild. Pretty sure its a NP119 and I see there is a rebuild kit on ebay. BUT Im not seeing a replacement chain.
So thats option 1, low headache rebuild with all stock stuff.

------Option 2, use this as a opportunity to swap it all. Starting to see a 242 swap will be a pain in the butt. I dont know what to look for and it seems I need someone to just tell me what to buy. I can install anything mechanically but just about to explode with all the fitting issue info out there. Shaft input length and what not. I know its all hidden in the forum but I seriously have spent like 6 hours a day on here and feel like Im not getting anywhere. SO other option is getting a 999 from a 88 or before Jeep. Then use that new 999 interface and shaft to place a new Tcase on there with less fitting headaches. At this point I dont care if its a 242, starting to rule that out. So looking for the next best thing.

What would you do If you had a 85 sedan sitting in your garage with the trans and Tcase pulled and ready to get a drivetrain back. Got cash burning a hole in my pocket but need to keep it between a the 998 or 999 since thats what within my capability.

The one thing I can add is getting the driveshafts lengthened or shortened could maybe be a option since I would just bring it to a shaft shop and have them do it assuming its not like $1000 to do. Or buy new ones but again someone would have to tell me exactly what ones to buy. Drive shaft length I get. The input and output shaft lengths I get but cant explore unless I have them all laid out in front of me. So I ask you.

Someone tell me a trans t-case combo to buy!!!!!

As always appreciate the advice hopefully soon I can give back to this site as much as I have taken from it.

Untitled by T A, on Flickr

[amcfool1]

hi, I usually apply the KISS method (Keep It Simple, Stupid!:) and rebuild the stock system. You have it, it's bought and paid for, and you KNOW it will fit and work. Again, I have seen too many cars "improved" so that they never run again. I am not against upgrades/parts swaps per se, but usually only do them only when the original is beyond repair. good luck, gz

[TEagle85]

We were always told to use the KISS system in design school and I don't know why I'm not using it now. Just excited at all the possibilities I guess, I will take that advice and I think I will avoid a lot of trouble.
Maybe down the road I can get crazy. Which I still would like to do with this car. Its already unique but Im a tinkerer and just looking for excuses to tinker.

[amcfool1]

hey, it's ALL good, tinker away, i do all the time, just finished swapping out the old cast iron intake,exhaust manifolds on my 77 Hornet AMX to the more "modern" 82+ Eagle aluminum  intake and separate exhaust manifolds, but again, I did this because  the original exhaust manifold, 39 years old, was leaking and had a crack in it. Nothing wrong with tinkering, just make sure the car runs when you're done! good luck, gz

[carnuck]

You need to swap the front yoke from the original NP"whatever" Eagle tcase to Grand Wagoneer tcase and add a low range lever and re-clock the speedo housing. Also swap the 998 shift and passing gear linkage to the 727. Dipstick tube was the hardest fix.