Clutch Bleeding Procedure

[RookieSX/4]

I think there should be a sticky on how to properly bleed the eagle's hydraulic clutch. I search and come across thousands of posts with many people suffering from the same few issues...

anyway I am having trouble getting all of the air to come out. I just fully rebuilt my clutch system (Repaired firewall, new master, new slave, new lines, new bolts, thoroughly cleaned and re-used reservoir). If I recall don't you have to rig something up to fully compress the slave in before you bleed the system? I believe that was my problem last time but that was probably 6 years and 100 posts ago....

[johnbendik]

I was able to bleed mine after replacing the slave cylinder without doing that (compressing the slave piston).  I didn't have a helper, so I used a 'speed bleeder' valve (around $6, I think).

The Eagle seems to have a lot of built-in slop at the top of the clutch pedal movement before it engages the piston.  Maybe that's what you're feeling?

Good luck,
JB

[carnuck]

I used a bicycle pump to pressure bleed many hydraulic clutch systems. (I bought one specifically for it and lubed the pump seal with PBR rubber grease to avoid contamination) I added a valve to an old clutch master lid or used a bike inner tube with just the valve and a chunk of the hose next to it clamped over the reservoir and the other way vulcanized shut to make a "bag". it takes very little pressure this way and I only crawled out twice to refill the master while doing it.

[Draekon]

When I replaced my master and slave cylinders, I did the standard helper method of compressing the pedal then letting fluid out. Didn't work perfectly so I did a gravity bleed after that and it seemed to cure my issues

[RookieSX/4]

in my scenario I gravity bled, I then used a helper to hold the pedal while I cracked the bleeder...a ton of air came out but after doing this for awhile the pedal still had no feel and the slave cyl has 0 movement so either its still filled with air or I have a more serious issue.