Vacuum

[AMCLOVER258]

So  with my hectic schedule lately i have been able to work on the eagle for about 15-20 minutes a day, however i have just about everything pulled. My question is when it comes to reassembly (i want a clean look) which vacuum lines are absolutely required to be put back on(not for legal but so it will actually drive) and what lines can be capped off. Also i am looking to replace EVERY bolt and nut does any one have links for a master bolt kit or a kit with at least MOST bolts and the remainder i can get from a local nut shop.

[macdude443]

You need 4x4 vac, PCV, choke pull-off and vacuum advance at a minimum.  Sure it'll drive without vacuum advance but driveability and economy may suffer.  I would keep the line to the EGR and if the vapor canister is still present you want the lines connected to that as well or it may fill up with fuel due to it not venting.  If you have AC, you want the heater valve vac connected unless you like to sweat.  But, it'll still drive.

[macdude443]

Oh and I don't know of any master bolt list.  I think that's normally referred to as a parts car 

[AMCLOVER258]

Thanks, i do have A/c However it is already non functioning. I will be looking for a way to delete before assembly but if push comes to shove ill keep it as an ornament. haha.

[macdude443]

The heater control valve closes coolant off to the heater core when a vacuum is applied (control switch in AC/Max AC positions).  Even if the AC doesn't work, you'll still get heat in the cabin on a hot day with coolant circulating through the core.  The non-AC cars didn't have this valve, so they just lived with it.  It's a minor annoyance but it drove me nuts on my wagon before I fixed the valve.  Nothing like an 80 degree day with heat coming out of the vents at all settings.

[AMCLOVER258]

2 pieces of info for yal. I pulled the intake yesterday, the last bolt closes to the fire wall is a bear to get to,  i ended up removing the egr and it allowed a tight fit for my hand and ratchet. Number 2 Mr wrench and a dish scrubber is AMAZING for cleaning the aluminum parts (Intake ect.)

[amcfool1]

hi www.headbolts.com  has complete engine fastener kits in stainless steel for our AMC motors. one for 1980 and older, one for the 1981 and up, and one for the 4.0. about $70. I recently bought a kit for my 84, #6-3594, and its pretty nice stuff. The only thing to watch for is to make sure the int/ex manifold bolts are as long as they should be. Adds a little eye appeal to the engine.good luck, gz

[AMCLOVER258]

Your a life saver on that kit!!! i have been looking EVERYWHERE!!!!!!! 

[macdude443]

Boy, I'm dense.  I thought you wanted a master bolt kit for the WHOLE CAR.  That'd be nuts I thought.  Pun intended.

[AMCLOVER258]

Hahah that comment just made my work day a little better 

[carnuck]

On the AC, I recently checked into a bypass setup for a friend. Ended up with a double pulley on the alt and taking the AC belt off. I'm looking at using a semi-truck AC clutch/pulley to put a serpentine belt on my York compressor eventually. (as long as it still cools, I may as well keep it since I have the factory on board air system)

[Nightpath]

There's a swag mod for the A/C comrpessor that allows you to convert it to air compressor (just need an air pig in the rear or where ever)

[amcfool1]

hi, on that engine bolt kit from www.headbolts.com. good stuff, and i have one. only thing, the manifold  bolts are the same length as stock. good, right? well, I have come to find out, manifolds hold seal a lot better with a bolt 1/4' LONGER, and a lockwasheer. Just something to think about. gz