1984 Eagle wagon

[Seagulls n Eagle]

This was the work for the morning. Finding the proper position for the torque converter.
Had to try three times befor I got the right orientation.



Although Im going to end up with the 4.0 ax15 I think time and money wise I'm going
To have to so it in phases.

I'm going to prepare the clutch master slave. Plan for the rear crossmember mods.

But I'm going to have to go with the 4.2, 727 for now.

I would like to document preformance charituristics of different configurations so a comparison of each can be made for a reference fort self and others

[mudkicker715]

That is not isolating it from what i see but rather clamping it to the cross member. The trans mount floats it in rubber, not clamp it.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Your right mudkicker the proper ones would be the type that was more like a vibration isolator, where the actual mounting points were not thru but rather molded into the top and bottom. It would look similar but there would be no need for the bottoms ones.  could even use the actual transmission mount carnuck suggested alittle earlier in this thread. 

What I'm reall looking at would be the configuration with the cross member. Where the mount would be kinda inside the crossmember. It's hard for me explain exactly what I mean. So ill try to take more picture.

[carnuck]

This was the work for the morning. Finding the proper position for the torque converter.
Had to try three times befor I got the right orientation.



Although Im going to end up with the 4.0 ax15 I think time and money wise I'm going
To have to so it in phases.

I'm going to prepare the clutch master slave. Plan for the rear crossmember mods.

But I'm going to have to go with the 4.2, 727 for now.

I would like to document preformance charituristics of different configurations so a comparison of each can be made for a reference fort self and others

If you spritz a little paint through the flexplate hole with the converter aligned it makes it easier. I meant to say before that if the 727 comes from a Grand Wagoneer built '87 or newer, the flexplate won't line up to yours. Do you have a lockup converter and trans? That helps a bit for highway driving. You can't just put a lockup converter on a non-lock trans however.

Top is lockup and bottom is non-lock.

[carnuck]

Your right mudkicker the proper ones would be the type that was more like a vibration isolator, where the actual mounting points were not thru but rather molded into the top and bottom. It would look similar but there would be no need for the bottoms ones.  could even use the actual transmission mount carnuck suggested alittle earlier in this thread. 

What I'm reall looking at would be the configuration with the cross member. Where the mount would be kinda inside the crossmember. It's hard for me explain exactly what I mean. So ill try to take more picture.

I was thinking cut open the top of the crossmember and tucking the mount into it IF it won't hit elsewhere. You would need to add some bracing to the crossmember after that. On SOTE we used the XJ trans crossmember and put spacers up to the floor (rather inelegant but functional)

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Must be winter when the temp isn't in the single digits is warm.

I didn't get much done  this morning. Looks like I have the non lock up. Tf727. The torque I have bolted to the flex plate from the stock auto tranny. I want to fit it so I could follow the suggestion of painting it while it was bolted in the proper position.



How would one tell the differance between a non lockup and a lockup torque converter?

I was also following up on the manual transmission swap in Parallel with the auto install.

Wow wee if this is were the master clutch cylinder goes there really isn't much room to put it in the wrong place.


It can really only move around less than 1/4 in!

[carnuck]

There is a tag on the converter or you can look down inside and make sure it's splined all the way to the bottom.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Thanks again Carnuck. I really appriciate your help, your knowlage, And your time. Really to every one here and this sight. It's a really great place! Not sure I can say it enough.

I really liked AMC's when I was younger and it's great to be back. I like Turing wrenches and the eagles den is such a great reasource, it is so helpful to have input from kind people with lots of Experiance and similar interests. It makes working on them alot easier.

The help, input and insight is greatly appriciated.

Ill Check out the converter in the morning. I'm guessing its ok.

 I would really rather be going the manual transmission route but I'm going to have to do it in stages I guess because I have to get up and running.

I may go pick up the wrangle rear transmission mount and see how it might fit into the rear crossmember as is.
It will me neat to see.

Thanks again to you, to all and the eagles den

[carnuck]

You have to set the converter all the way into the 727 before bolting it up or you will crush the front pump.

[eaglefreek]

You have to set the converter all the way into the 727 before bolting it up or you will crush the front pump.

I was just about to say the same. You need to install the converter into the transmission and then after you bolt the bellhousing up to the engine, you install the bolts to the converter. When you put the converter on the shaft, turn it while applying pressure so that it seats all the way into the pump. I learned the hard way on a Mustang a few years ago.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Thanks eagle freek. I'm guessing that's what happened to the transmission that's coming out. I was told that it just leaked like a sive. Any other heads up ideas prior to install. Anything that would be easier on the floor as oppors to installed

It was minus numbers again this morning. I don't mind so much but the tools suck the heat out of your hands.

I'm going to pick up the Pace of reassembly. Partially because I need to and partially because Ive decided to do as much as I can for the manual swap but proceed with the TF727 NP229 install. Autos spook me a bit because I don't know them as well. The previous owner rebuilt them so I hope that went well and they function as intended.

So is it true that your supposed to put a quart of transmission fluid in the torque converter prior to installing it?

Also, I understand type F is the correct fluid?

I'm curious too, if I have questions should I post them here or in the correct parts of forum, like transmission questions in the transmission sections and soforth?

Thanks

[carnuck]

Dexron/Mercon III is the correct fluid. Type F will eventually take out the bands and clutches. It was made for early Fords with asbestos clutches and bands. It's fine in a GM Powerglide too, but that's about it. If it was a lockup or you were going to tow with it then I would go to the Mopar semi-synthetic fluid.

The major leak point in the 998 is usually a cracked torque converter neck.

Change the passing gear and shift linkage while it's on the floor. Put both trans in park before doing it and note the position of the shift lever and passing gear lever carefully so you will have minimum mods needed after install. Front yoke of a 229 tcase needs swapped as well if you replace the NP129. Test fit the dipstick tube. The 998 tube is bent a bit different and I tried to bend it around the tab that sticks out, but it cracked the tube. Sawzall took that ear tab off in a flash but the damage was done. I have a Lokar tube for replacement I bought either on Ebay or Amazon for $35 delivered. It's for a Mopar big block, but that doesn't matter since it's "universal".

Make sure the trans cooler isn't clogged or full of old clutch material from the old trans. and partially fill the converter before installing it. Lube the trans seal lip to keep it from burning up and make sure the spring is still inside the lip.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Thanks again carnuck. I appriciate yours and everyone's help. I just couldn't give up on the manual swap.

Well, I got up yesterday at 4:30am
Again and went to go outside to work on the eagle and it was            -10 degrees F. I couldn't do it. Today was a balmy 7 so .... Out to work.

Not wanting to give up on the manual swap (and I had) I fit the NP242 just to get an idea of what It was going to look like when I went back to it.

Well it fit really well. So I revisited the crossmember. As I photographed before, there are two mounting holes over the crossmember.
I found some vibration  isolation mounts rated at 230pounds apiece.

Ill post pictures of what I'm going to assemble when the parts come in.

In the meantime I pulled the cover off the 3.55 I was happy to see that it looked ok.

I prepared the 3.08 front diff for removal. Next week I'm hoping to have the time to begin process of reassembly.

The 8.25 rear is in. I was luck and found one that had the shock mounts that were already removed and the guy selling it was willing to swap over my shock mounts from the 2.35 that were in the car.

My phone is currently full so I cant take any pictures but ill fix that and take some.

The adjenda for this week;

Swap out 3.08 fronts
Lock down rear end bend up brake lines
Waiting on clutch kit
Install clutch
Install master clutch cylinder

I would like to put more on the list but ill leave it at that and shoot for getting more done.

Would like to have it moving under its own power by the end of the month.
We'll see.

Does anybody have a part number for the pilot bushing for a 258 and an ax15?

Thanks

[captspillane]

The pilot bushing for an AX15 isn't a brass plug like a T5. It is a tiny set of roller bearings pressed into a larger aluminum ring that in turn gets pressed into place on the crank. When I last got one Autozone had the same price as Advanced but Autozone's was just the roller bearing. That's useless. Advanced was same price but it was in the larger aluminum ring. Make sure you get the whole assembly. I tried swapping roller bearings into an old ring and its pretty hard. I damaged the old one in the process.

[carnuck]

You need to measure the AX-15 pilot shaft diameter (I recall .70 and .75 but could be wrong on the first number). Test fit the trans to the motor without anything else to make sure it doesn't have the longer input shaft. It should fit flat with no gap, even without the tin plate.  If not then you need to grind a bit off the input shaft or use a drill to make the crank hole slightly deeper. IIRC it's not a problem with the plastic cover 258s but the tin cover 80/81s only.
   Get me the diameter of the trans pilot and I can get you the bearing number, but I recall it should be the same as a '79 CJ7 with 304 and 4 or 5 speed.