727 help!! What's need to identify to convert

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Greetings,

I'm working on a project that someone else started. I have a 727 transmission out of a Grand wagoner (supposedly)
Currently there is a stock transmission in the car that is toast.

So here's my problem. I need to get the car up and going. How do identify the 727?
That's the first question

Second how to I figure what I need to change to install it, I
I.e.  do I need a different flex plate? Pilot bushing ANYTHING?

I don't want to have to do it twice.

Also I have a new torque converter in a box, I assume he bought the correct one,
Is there a way to varify that?

Is there anything I'm not asking that I should? Anything else I should be asking


Thanks, I appreciate any input

[rollguy]

I am no trans expert, but check to make sure the tail shafts and housings of both transmissions are the same.  If you are using the TC from the Wagoneer, then disregard.   I believe everything else should directly change over from what I have read.

[carnuck]

Change the shift and passing gear linkage after noting their position (make sure it's in park!) The two trans should look exactly alike except the 727 is a little fatter. Same length, same bolt pattern.



Run the part number for the new converter to make sure it's correct for that trans. Lockup was used in early years of GW and 80-83 Cherokee/Wags and the converter was different. Lockup on top and non on bottom.



As for the flexplate, it depends what year Eagle you have and which 727. In '87 Eagles and FSJs went to the same starter as XJs and got rid of the PITA Ford style ones. At the same time they changed the offset of the flexplate 3/8" or 10mm closer to the motor as the XJ starter is shorter. They also went from 3 evenly spaced and 1 offset converter bolt to 4 even spaced ones. You can find out by matching the plate to the converter holes. Early flexplate has a dual pattern for the converter bolts (9XX and 727) Not sure on the later one, but one bolt won't line up. You can save $$ and drive/file the odd hole to fit but the flexplate from an '87 to? Wrangler 4.0L 999 will work and you can drill the 727 for the crank sensor while it's out to upgrade down the road.

Clear as mud? If you run the FSJ tcase, you have to bend the shifter away from the trans slightly to clear the low range linkage.

[Seagulls n Eagle]

Wow, what an increasable form. Thank you for help. This give me a place to start.
I'm glad to know this resource is here.

How do I identify a ford vs non ford starter?   

[carnuck]

See the other thread. On my phone so I can't move it over easily

[Seagulls n Eagle]

So...I could use the flex plate that's in the car (think its a 1987)
Currently I front of the stock transmission? If the holes don't line up I could make them fit. That way it would work with the starter.

I heard about internally balanced vs externally balanced.

It's there any truth to that.

I really really don't want to have to pull the tranny and transfer case out again in the cold concrete.

Also I only have the one flex plate (the one currently in the car)

[carnuck]

AMC V8 are externally balanced. ALL AMC 6s (almost all inline 6 cyls in the world) are internally balanced naturally.

For the flexplate, it depends whether both vehicles have the same starter. Ford starter = offset bolt hole in flexplate and ring gear is closer to the trans. XJ style = even holes and ring gear teeth closer to the motor. If both are Ford style, just line the holes up (put the bolts in to be sure) and mark through the hole in the web with a spritz of spray paint so aligning it in the car is a breeze.