Thanks for the reply, so much stuff I gotta dissect it a bit to get it all cleared.
You want the PCV hooked up (it was in the front hole on the valve cover and goes to the back of the carb.) The carb was set up to run with this "vacuum leak".
Ok, so that hose (it was loose) goes into the same size hole in the back of the carb (which was plugged by PO). I'll get that connected.
[quote carnuck]The charcoal cannister hooks to the 2 large hoses on the top front of the carb. That just catches fuel vapors from the tank and puts them down the carb on start up so you don't smell raw fumes. [/quote]
The cannister isn't going back Those hoses are blocked.
Well, if you like the smell of raw gas...
You will need to vent the fuel tank or it will either pressurize and force excess fuel in the carb (poor economy) or cause fuel to spray out when the cap is removed.
[quote carnuck]I'm not a fan of EGR valves but unless you deal with the ping by retarding timing or going a colder range of sparkplug (I run NGK BKR6EK which are same as VW uses) or replace the timing chain/gears with a roller set from a '91 up 4.0L (retarding the cam cures ping). Especially if you do the head swap, which is mainly done to get rid of the plastic valve cover you don't have.[/quote]
You lost me, what's cold sparkplugs have to do with smog on a '80 Eagle? I have the vacuum for the distributor connected, is that what you mean?
The colder range plugs cut Ping, which is a common problem on the late '70s/early 80s 6 cyls. It's the reason the very next year after yours they added a knock sensor which controlled the timing and the carb. I also would add a GM HEI dist (search Ebay for Skip White to see one. GM inline 6 cyls are probably rare where you are) By going a colder plug, I was able to advance my timing more without ping or miss and I have a fair bit of power.
[quote carnuck]Speaking of the carb, grab it and see if it's at all twist-able. If yes, then the lack of idle is because of the vacuum leak in the mid body and/or clogged idle tubes (I cross #1 and #6 wires and make the motor backfire to clear it, AFTER making sure the carb body is tight and intake isn't loose/sucking air.[/quote]
Will give it a twist and the intake a shout, before trying your tip on #1/#6 wires (or just taking out the idle tubes and piano wiring them).
I recall the earlier tubes being larger diameter ID than the compu-carb version and less likely to clog.
[quote carnuck] That hose going below would be to the tcase for E-drive which some '80s had. It locked the tcase so front and rear axles turned the same speed. [/quote]
Ok, so where should this connect, it was already loose. To the carb or the intake or neither?
I thought it was already hooked to intake? Are you talking about the large diameter hose? That's the AIR system inlet.
Pics of mine:
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/carnuck/library/AMC%20Eagle?sort=3&page=2I have AC and kept the vapor cannister but dumped the AIR pump. (had to realign the belts slightly but I plan serpentine belt later.
[quote carnuck]The heater controls are also vacuum so there should be a vacuum ball for that. [/quote]
vacuum ball? haven't seen one, except the cruise control. I'm guessing this is something that should be connected to the same outlet as the cruise on the rear of the intake manifold?
[quote carnuck]Yours may have the early idle speed control box near the heater under the hood hinge (I removed mine). [/quote]
I'll check it out.
[quote carnuck]If you have a catalytic converter, you need to remove it or gut it without the AIR pump or your floor may catch fire. When the cat falls apart on it's own (usually preceded by popcorn sounds from the exhaust) it often blocks the muffler and turns into a cork, suddenly dropping power (mine did that to the previous owner. The 998 snapping the converter and dropping out all fluids on his way to work was the last straw). After removal of the cat and cleaning the muffler (shop vac before putting the new pipe on), it now has plenty of power.[/quote]
No catalysator, and will not put one in.
Me either till I go EFI.
[quote carnuck]On the AIR pipe (hose behind the carb) you can get a 3/4" rubber pipe cap (I think they use them here for heater lines. They are on the HELP! rack in most parts stores) and clamp it off for now. [/quote]
AIR pipe, that the one that comes from the exhaust manifold? If so, it's blocked already (bolt clamped to a short hose) and i'll remove it totally - looks better without it and I am redoing the entire engine bay and painting the engine, etc. after I get it running correctly.
Thanks again mate!
PS. I plan to run the engine with Valvoline MaxLife 15W50 (semisynthetic for high milage engines), I've had good experiences with it on my 242cid and 258cid engines in the past.
Napa branded oil is made by Valvoline, so good choice!