Front hub removal/installation

[Draekon]

I finally got around to replacing the hubs in my Eagle with some ones with new wheel bearings.  When going through the procedures listed here:
http://amceaglesden.com/guide/index.php?title=Front_Wheel_Bearings
I found that there were a few things that I did differently that helped and thought I would share.  Hopefully this can help someone out in the future.

The parts you will need for the actual rebuild of each hub are
TIMKEN SET 26 (x2)
TIMKEN 3942 (x1)
An O-ring

Listed in some places is another seal, TIMKEN 3553.  This seal goes on the inside of the knuckle, and should also be replaced.

I am not sure what the purpose of the O-ring is, but it was there from the factory, so I installed a new one.

Most shops will never have dealt with pressing bearings out/in of a hub assembly like ours, as it is usually a part that is replaced whole.  As such, it might take them a little longer to do the procedure, if they are even willing to work on it.  (I had a machine shop straight up say no to doing it).  The shop I ended up having work on my hubs took close to 3 hours rebuilding the 2 hubs.  Some of the time was due to not having the Eagle specific tools like the plate to press the assembly apart.  Make sure that whoever you take it to has a good idea of what will be involved just by looking at the assembly, and is confident that they will be able to do a proper job at rebuilding it.

As is written in many guides, you will want to at least loosen the axle nut while the tires are on the ground.  If you have the sport alloy wheels like I do, this means you will have to jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the center cap, reinstall the wheel, put it down, loosen the axle nut, and then jack the car back up for the rest of the procedure.
The axle nut takes a 1 3/8 in socket.  A 36 mm socket is very close to the same size, and worked fine for me.

The procedures I read did not mention anything about removing the axle half shaft, but I found that I needed to remove it in order to get to the lowest of the 3 hub bolts.  Removing the half shaft also makes it much easier to remove the steering arm bracket.  A helper would make unbolting the half shaft from the differential much easier.  I found myself having to throw the car in gear, removing one bolt, taking the car out of gear, rotating the half shaft, and repeating.

The hub bolts on mine took an E-14 socket but my 6-pt 7/16 in socket actually worked better.  The E-14 socket I have needs to be on perfectly straight, otherwise it likes to pop off.  My 6-pt 7/16 in socket had plenty of contact area, and was more forgiving with its positioning (which helps for the bottom hub bolt).

Be careful not to bend the dust shield during assembly or disassembly.  I accidentally bent mine a bit, so when I took it for a test drive, I got a terrible metal rubbing sound.  Turns out the dust shield was rubbing ever so slightly on the edge of the brake rotor.  Sounded like I had seriously messed something up.  This actually happened on both sides, even though I was being careful the second time through.  So you might want to just inspect the dust shield in the steering arm area before putting the wheel back on.

Here is the order in which I found works the best:

0) Remove wheel center caps if equipped
1) Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer, axle nut, and washer.
2) Raise the corner of the vehicle that you will be working on, and support properly.
3) Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and remove the brake caliper.  Make sure to support the brake caliper properly (it should NOT be hanging from the brake hose).  The usual method is to use a wire hanger to support it.
4) Remove the brake rotor and set aside.
5) Disconnect the axle from the differential side by removing the 6 bolts. (This step is why I didn't raise up the whole front end.  I was able to loosen the bolts by having the car in 4wd, and the transmission in gear, taking it out of gear to rotate the axle.)
6) Slide the axle out of the hub assembly.
7) Remove the steering arm bracket from the knuckle.
8.) Remove the three carrier bolts and remove the hub assembly and dust shield.
9) If replacing the seal on the knuckle, remove the seal.

Installation is the reverse.

[vangremlin]

Thanks for the added info, this is great stuff!  Thumbs up to you!

[BenM]

I have found using an old screwdriver, one you don't care about, placed through the brake caliper into the fins of the disc sufficient for the halfshaft-to-axle bolts. I wouldn't try that with the axle nut, though.

[Draekon]

I have found using an old screwdriver, one you don't care about, placed through the brake caliper into the fins of the disc sufficient for the halfshaft-to-axle bolts. I wouldn't try that with the axle nut, though.

I could see that working well.  I didn't think about that, so I had already removed the brakes.

[eaglefreek]

Air tools are your friend in these situations. 

[MortenB]

Have someone to step on the brake pedal so you can remove the axle shaft nut.

[MortenB]

I found that the lower of the three carrier bolts was hard to get at.  On mine, they are external torx bolts requiring a torx inside socket.  Not much space to get the socket on the lower bolt unless you unbolt the lower ball joint or maybe just jack the control arm up (that might give a little more clearance; I thought of that afterwards).    Make sure to clean off the bolts first and make sure the socket goes all the way on.  Mine had some rust, but let loose without stripping out or breaking.  I hammered the socket on the bolt to make sure I got a good grip.  Upon reassembly, either get new bolts or at least put the cleanest bolt in the lower hole.  I only replaced the inner wheel bearing, since it was the one that looked bad.  It also made it fairly easy to do myself without special tools/plates.   On the original bearings, there is a spacer between them.  The new bearings' inner race was thicker, eliminating the need for the spacer.  That caused me some reassembly problems until I figured it out.  I suppose I really need a half thickness spacer, but I went without.  Don't think it's a problem. 

[Draekon]

Have someone to step on the brake pedal so you can remove the axle shaft nut.

That works if you have a helper.  If doing it alone (like I was), it is easiest to have the wheel on the ground when removing the axle shaft nut.

I found that the lower of the three carrier bolts was hard to get at.  On mine, they are external torx bolts requiring a torx inside socket.  Not much space to get the socket on the lower bolt unless you unbolt the lower ball joint or maybe just jack the control arm up (that might give a little more clearance; I thought of that afterwards). 

There is definitely minimal space on that bolt.  My external torx socket didn't fit well, but my 6-pt 7/16 inch socket fit well enough to remove those ones.