Wheel bearing seals, as opposed to Axle shaft dust slinger

[v8beetle]

Does anyone know what an axle shaft dust slinger looks like? Does it look similar to a seal? I can't post pictures at the moment, but parts in hand indicate it looks like a seal that slides over the axle and mounts into the spindle itself in the same hole that the bearing seal mounts, though the bearing seal would seem to mount toward the outside of the car and the dust slinger would mount inward. Any advice would be appreciated. Someone had their hand previously in this front end before me, and would just like to ensure it's reassembled properly. I will include pictures later this afternoon if I can.

[rmick]

look at these pages http://wiki.amcevolution.com/images/0/0e/10frontsusp033.jpg
http://wiki.amcevolution.com/index.php/File:8brakes005.jpg

[v8beetle]

How does this schematic fit into that, when it shows a different piece entirely which as I said according to the parts I have in hand, the dust slinger looks much the same as the bearing seal.

http://amceaglesden.com/guide/images/6/6a/Frontbearingfigure2.jpg

[profeagle]

FYI- there is no oil slinger in eagle front hub assy. Here is how it goes - the hub, seal, bearing and race, those parts are mounted into the carrier, then you have the inner bearing and race followed by the spacer. this is then mounted through the dust shield and then is installed an o-ring around the carrier, this assy. is then mounted to the steering knuckle pin [ what you are calling a spindle, spindles are only on two wheel drives ]. There is a seal in the back of the knuckle.

Caution : all bolts must be fastened to proper torque values

Hope this clears up any misunderstandings, if not, just ask.

And happy Eagle-ing 

[AMC of Houston]

Well, the AMC parts books show "something" there.   Depending on the year, the books list it as a "shedder" or "deflector".    Maybe a tin piece pressed on the outer CV hub??   Kinda like what is on some diff and transfer case yokes??    Now I'm curious, and may have to go crawl under one of my Eagles for a look.

[profeagle]

You are correct, there is a tin piece set over the outer cv joint and I just noticed that a piece of that joint is called a spindle and that is what the shredder is placed on.
Hope this is what you need to know and you can now get the job done?  I just went out to my storage shed and had a look at my spare axle shafts to be sure. I have done this job many times, but many years ago. 

[v8beetle]

I guess the question was in what proximity to the backside of the knuckle was the dust slinger, as the CV axle mounts flush once torqued to spec. How, if at all, does it come in contact with the backside of the knuckle and or seal.

I'm trying to rule out a clearance issue with the hub assembly itself. Any idea  whether this piece is vital, necessary, and what it's true function is on the vehicle. The reason I ask, I had the hubs rebuilt by a local machine shop, mounted everything and torqued to spec. 100 Ft Pounds. Before reassembling the brakes I attempted to turn the assembly and it failed to turn whatsoever. Now, Either the bearings aren't seated into the carrier correctly, or there is a clearance issue elsewhere.

[eaglefreek]

Sorry, I can't help you, but would love to see a thread about your V8 Beetle I assume you have.

[v8beetle]

Used to have about 10 years ago, but where I got the kit can be found online. http://www.kineticautomotive.com/
Divorce required me to sell the vehicle unfortunately.

[profeagle]

I guess the question was in what proximity to the backside of the knuckle was the dust slinger, as the CV axle mounts flush once torqued to spec. How, if at all, does it come in contact with the backside of the knuckle and or seal.

I'm trying to rule out a clearance issue with the hub assembly itself. Any idea  whether this piece is vital, necessary, and what it's true function is on the vehicle. The reason I ask, I had the hubs rebuilt by a local machine shop, mounted everything and torqued to spec. 100 Ft Pounds. Before reassembling the brakes I attempted to turn the assembly and it failed to turn whatsoever. Now, Either the bearings aren't seated into the carrier correctly, or there is a clearance issue elsewhere.

I will hazard a guess here after some study of the axle shafts I have in storage. It seems the slinger is part of the axle spindle itself or it is a seperate piece on others, in any case it appears to have 0 clearance against the seal to protect from the elements I would think.

I need to explane my early comment about spindles, I just ment that Eagles don't have that item as part of the steering knuckel as two wheel drives do [ old cars of course ].   

FYI - torque on axle nut is 175 ft-lbs acorrding to my factory service manual, but correct turning problem before torque-ing, [ but then you knew that ]

You say it won't turn - is it in two wheel drive ? maybe both front wheels of ground ? How did you manage to torque the hub nut unless it was prevented from turning ?  When the axel shaft was removed, the slinger should have staved with it so should not be a problem. Are you doing this yourself ?
Try backing off the hub nut, see if it turns now ? if not, remove the bolts at inner axel end and try [ hold axel up with wire or strong string ]. Did the hub turn in the carrier before it was installed ?

[v8beetle]

Axles weren't installed yet as those were being replaced as well due to torn grease boots and yes I knew the applicable torque settings. Both wheels were off the ground. The hub assembly was installed back into the knuckle/spindle, and the torx bolts were set to the recommended setting of 100 ft pounds. It was after that, that I put back the steering brackets, also 100 ft pounds, and the caliper mounting brackets, again, 100 ft pounds. As I went to install break pads, rotors and calipers, I tried to turn the hubs themselves, and they didn't budge. There was no axle in place, nor anything impeding their ability. So as I said, I'm wondering if the machine shop didn't get the bearings in the carrier correctly as all the seals were correct, the install was correct, and someone needs to slap the amc engineer for not dropping that lower ball joint to give easier access to the lower hub assembly bolt. Yes I'm doing this myself, and have done many similar things of this nature, including rebuilding engines, transmissions, cylinder heads, and even wheel bearings on things like chevelles, camaros, trucks, vans, you name it. Never had this issue in over 20 years of working on cars. As for the hubs turning before install, yes, it was a tight turn though, very snug.

The reason I suspect the bearings are seated incorrectly, is that when I picked up the reassembled hubs from said machine shop, they hadn't even greased the knuckle side bearings, nor had they redone the bolt holes as I had requested. As I said, someone had their hands in this car before I got it, and the seals in at the time were basically disintegrated.

[profeagle]

Well if I had this problem, I would disassemble everything including the carrier/hub assy. I would want to know for sure that the bearings and cavities were properly packed with the right grease and the correct bearings were used. Do you know if this the case ? I suppose you could remove all brackets and then loosen the torx bolts holding the carrier and see if it turns now. It is possible the torque is distorting the carrier maybe ? and binding an already too tight an assy. However, I think that is really a long shot, but maybe ?  The manual says 75 ft-lbs torque for the carrier bolts not 100,  brackets go 100. So perhaps one step at at a time backwards but you must be sure of the greasing because of what you say there may not be any grease in it at all ?

Clean up bolt holes with a thread chaser and bolts also. Use loctite when reassembling.   

[AMC of Houston]

One more silly thought - was the issue noticed after you installed the brake pads and calipers??   A friend had a "lock-up" issue on his '85 after he installed the calipers.  Turned out he had the brake pads on backward (inners where the outers should be, and vice-versa).

[v8beetle]

Pardon my typo earlier I was in a 100 frame of mind and fingers got ahead of me. Torque was set correctly, and it was still bound. I'l disassemble everything and recheck to see what it could possibly be.

[profeagle]

That's OK, keep us posted on what you find.

And as always, happy Eagle-ing