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1/4 check valve

Started by jim, April 08, 2013, 05:12:16 PM

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jim

Hey, Jurjen,
I believe you were the one to discover that our Eagles had the check valve in the return line, so maybe you can answer a couple of questions about it.

Which way does it flow? 

What is the purpose?

Thanks
Jim
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
"The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people;
that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed."
--Thomas Jefferson to John Cartwright, 1824. ME 16:45
What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
08 Impala
01 Yukon 4X4
(There's more to life than fuel mileage)
83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
88 Eagle white woody wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
86 wagon parts car
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/AR/Little_Rock.html?bannertypeclick=miniStates">Click for Little Rock, AR Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150

vangremlin

Jim, here is what I found in the 1981 TSM about the check valve.  Hope everyone can read this.

1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

carnuck

AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

BenM

Not mentioned, it reduces the chance of fuel draining out of the supply lines which reduces cranking after the car has sat for a few days.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

jim

Quote from: BenM on April 10, 2013, 12:18:50 PM
Not mentioned, it reduces the chance of fuel draining out of the supply lines which reduces cranking after the car has sat for a few days.
This is what I was looking for. I had hoped this was the case.  If the 88 sits up for a couple of months, it is very difficult to get gas back to the carb.
So, even though I have the Motorcraft carb, I reinstalled the dual outlet filter and connected the top outlet to the return line.
BUT - now I have a major gas leak from the top right front of the tank.  I suspect that the rubber hose deteriorated from being out of use so long.
I have not replaced the check valve.  Since the valve was inside the gas line most of us did not know it was there.  I'm sure almost all were lost when hoses were replaced.
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
"The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people;
that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed."
--Thomas Jefferson to John Cartwright, 1824. ME 16:45
What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
08 Impala
01 Yukon 4X4
(There's more to life than fuel mileage)
83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
88 Eagle white woody wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
86 wagon parts car
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/AR/Little_Rock.html?bannertypeclick=miniStates">Click for Little Rock, AR Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150

BenM

The cracked and rotting hoses are probably the cause. Air is smaller and less dense than gas and will go through those hoses much easier.

Even with the check valve you're going to be lucky to have a whole week before it drains back to the tank or (especially) evaporates. I don't want to lead you astray on how much it may help with bad lines, which is probably not at all.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

macdude443

I've been looking into re-connecting the return lines in mine.  The vent (smaller metal line) was plugged when I bought it and the return line was wide open.  I filled the tank a week ago and after driving for ten minutes I noticed gas running out of the open return line under the hood.  I plugged it and have been driving it like that for a while.  I've decided to reconnect it to something, so I bought the 3 way filter and a check valve.  I no longer have a charcoal canister (po removed it).  I suppose it's ok to use this in-line valve from BMW, PN#16 14 9 068 988?  Was going to run the top hole of the filter to the check valve and then to the open return line.   I haven't had any issues with starting, though.
1982 Eagle SX/4
1986 Eagle Wagon

BenM

Quote from: macdude443 on May 28, 2013, 12:08:02 PM
I've been looking into re-connecting the return lines in mine.  The vent (smaller metal line) was plugged when I bought it and the return line was wide open.  I filled the tank a week ago and after driving for ten minutes I noticed gas running out of the open return line under the hood.  I plugged it and have been driving it like that for a while.  I've decided to reconnect it to something, so I bought the 3 way filter and a check valve.  I no longer have a charcoal canister (po removed it).  I suppose it's ok to use this in-line valve from BMW, PN#16 14 9 068 988?  Was going to run the top hole of the filter to the check valve and then to the open return line.   I haven't had any issues with starting, though.

The plugged vent is why the gas came out of the return line.

Gas in an underground tank is a constant temperature, within a few degrees of the mean yearly temperature of wherever you live.

In a normal mid-latitude area where the ground is 58* the cold gas gets pumped into your tank and absorbs heat and expands as it reaches ambient temperature. (The vapor expands more than the liquid.) Without the vent line the pressure is forced out somewhere else, at a lower connection in the tank than the vent line, a connection in the liquid gas.

Sometimes the gas cap leaks enough to allow air in, sometimes it doesn't, but even a basic mechanical fuel pump can create enough suction to collapse a fuel tank.

Plugging up the vent is just a problem waiting to happen.

I haven't a clue why someone would remove a charcoal canister. It provides no performance gain to remove it and makes your car smell like gas on a hot day. It allows moisture, dirt, and insects a direct route into the tank. It creates the possibility that liquid fuel may drip onto a hot exhaust.

Even without the vacuum purge working it does most of its intended functions.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

macdude443

Makes a lot of sense.  I was speaking to my brother tonight and he reminded me that he picked up a spare charcoal canister for me.  I'll just put it back in.  Would the check valve on the return line still be necessary?

Sorry if I'm hi-jacking the thread!
1982 Eagle SX/4
1986 Eagle Wagon

BenM

Definitely put a check valve in the return line. It's not necessary, but it helps with a number of little things.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

macdude443

My mistake.  The vent and return lines were wide open under the hood.  No sure why it leaked.
1982 Eagle SX/4
1986 Eagle Wagon

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