No-Go and then Go; why?

[flamingchariots]

My wife drove her '84 automatic/6 Eagle to work (about 35 miles).  She phoned me saying it "wouldn't go" when in drive and was desperate because she travels between three different schools (at least on that day).  So I drove to her, switched cars, and attempted to drive home.  The engine sounded fine.

Sure enough it felt like the clutch was slipping--but it's an automatic.  My thoughts went to transmission problems.  After driving it about 5 miles, it died.  I was able to get over to the berm and called for a tow.  The tow truck driver detached the driveshaft and towed it to a mechanic.  I should mention that it wouldn't hold when placed in park but wanted to roll, even after the driveshaft was reattached.
 
I got a call from the mechanic a couple hours later.  He attempted to drive it forward and in reverse without success, but with a lot of tat-tat-tat sounds.  He then put it in 4wd and drove away no problems.  He put it back in 2wd and it drove just fine.  He did not investigate it further. 

Any ideas on what happened and why?  My wife is leery of  driving it now. 


Kevin
Medina, OH

[Amc1320]

Sounds like it could be what's called "false neutral "

It happens when the transfer case is not quite in 2wd or 4wd

Check to make sure the 4wd switch is fully engaging and staying, a vacuum leak can let it slip out of one or the other by not keeping constant pressure on the switch

Good luck with it

[carnuck]

1/2 in 1/2 out of 4x4 OR a rear axle is spinning inside the hub. (common on 2 piece diffs)

[profeagle]

False neutral for sure, had that happen to my Eagle one time, at first it's hard to believe until you check it out.

If the hub was spinning on the axel it would stay that way and not go OK again as the mechanic did when testing. I also had that experience on my 82.ugh.

Happy Eagle - ing

[carnuck]

On a Pacer I had the rear hub was loose when I got it. When it was cold, it drove fine and then it would start to slip as it warmed up, especially when I went up a hill. My fix? Get out the welder and lock the hub to the shaft. Got another year out of it as a daily driver then the pinion gear snapped. (motor and trans went into a Chevy van)

[BenM]

It's a good time to go through all the vacuum lines and replace them. Heat and oil destroy them over the years.

The plastic line ends are sometimes available in the "Help" section, but a small piece of rubber vacuum line oven the end can make a connector.

Some years have a canister hidden inside the driver's side fender for the 4wd, check to see if you have a line going into that area, it's common for that one to rust out if they used the metal can instead of the plastic ball.

[eagleman]

My 86 wagon did that and I thought,well thats just great now the trans is gone.Then I got to looking and found in was in false neutral. Took a nine sixteenths box in wrench and moved the lever on the transfer case and could move it from four wheel to two wheel just by moving the lever all one way or the other. I knew that I had replaced all vac lines so figured they were fine so I removed the vac canister on the drivers side front fender and found a hole in the back side and not letting it hold vac. I repaired the hole after sand blasting it and repaint and now it works as new. Was sure a big relief cause I was sure I had a trans problem. A lot of sweat for a small little hole.