Odd Electrical Issue

[recomer]

So yesterday, drove my Eagle to work (14 miles each way), and when I sent to start in the morning, as it was a little colder than normal, was kind of sluggish cranking. Otherwise noticed nothing else odd. Drove to work, no issues. When I was leaving to go home, it started out very slow cranking and then nothing. I looked over all the switches and I didnt leave headlights on or anything else. I got a jump start, fired right up, but notice ammeter was to the left just about a needles width in the red. Figured battery was charging, warmed car up, drove home. Ammeter move up out of the red. This is where I noticed the odd issues...when I turned on wipers or headlights, it would move back into the red again. When I tured on turn signals, the meter turned into a metronome and moved in and out of the red.  Alternator is relatively new (Dec 2011), Battery is relatively new (Oct 2011). Belts are tight, dont see anything loose..Any ideas?

[eaglefreek]

Give the battery a good charge, clean terminals and check connections to the alternator. Then check voltage with a volt meter. When you say new alternator, I assume you mean rebuilt. Unfortunately, the quality of rebuilt parts have declined in the past several years. I wouldn't rule the battery out either. I just replaced the one in my 86 that I bought in '11. It had a dead cell.

[recomer]

Sounds like either it isn't charging or the battery is bad. Try a load test on the battery first,

Thanks. Its a sears and should still be under warranty. Will give that a try.

[recomer]

Give the battery a good charge, clean terminals and check connections to the alternator. Then check voltage with a volt meter. When you say new alternator, I assume you mean rebuilt. Unfortunately, the quality of rebuilt parts have declined in the past several years. I wouldn't rule the battery out either. I just replaced the one in my 86 that I bought in '11. It had a dead cell.

The alternator was from Napa and yes, a rebuild if I remember correctly. WIll give it a clean up, check connections again and see what the voltage is.

THanks

[Billman]

I went through 3 alternators (reman) in an S10 from Napa before I got a good one

[recomer]

I went through 3 alternators (reman) in an S10 from Napa before I got a good one

Just got back from Sears... the battery passes all tests but Alternators only putting out just slightly above 12volts. Looks like thats where my issue is. NAPA parts (2nd NAPA alternator in 2 years) Time to find a better brand.

[eaglefreek]

I take my alternator and starters to a local rebuilder. I seem to have better luck that way.

[Bird-o-Prey]

I have had the same issue with my altenator on several occasions.  Ususally, it's the voltage regulator inside the altenator.  Depending on how much $$$ a rebuild shop wants, it may be cheaper for you to buy a rebuild kit yourself and fix it yourself.  I buy rebuild kits with the electronics, bushings and bearing for about $25 CAD from Lordco.  I imagine you should be able to find one at NAPA for a similar price.  It only takes me about 40 minutes to pull, rebuild and reinstall my altenator and it saves a bunch money.  My $.02.

[recomer]

Been searching a bit for alternators and found that most the local parts stores have generic rebuilds. I looked at the receipt of the one thats in there now and while the part number on my reciept says its a 55 amp model, the case is stamped 78 amp. No telling which is correct.

So I spread out my search online and have narrowed it down to one on Summit Racing manufactured by High Technology Automotive and by Powermaster. The one on summit I'm still trying to find more info on, the one by Powermaster I found all kind of info on. Little more pricey but not considering they are higher amperage, might be worth the extra $$.  The High Tech one is 140 amps (at $149.00) and the Powermaster is either 100 ($120.00) or 140 Amp ($141.00)

[Baskinator]

I generally like overkill too just to be on the safe side, but you really only need those higher amp alternators if you're running heavy sound systems or lots of accessories. The stock ones are plenty sufficient for driving and light audio. I couldn't tell you where to buy the best one, or even what brand, but just make sure it has a good warranty

[Jurjen]

You can make a small DIY job of it:
http://www.amceaglenest.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=Alternator_Rebuild

[carnuck]

I have the rebuild kit sitting on my shelf. Next alt for my Eagle will be 75 amp double pulley.

[recomer]

Ended up ordering a new 100A Powermaster unit. Should be delivered Thursday/Friday...I aint playing with the rebuilt units again on this car.

[carnuck]

Power (bad word) don't honor their warranty and the alts generally last less than a year.

[BenM]

I have an one-wire on another car that I'm going to pull out when I put it back on the road. I didn't know at the time what the difference was, but I do now. I have also learned that the stamp on the case is the factory marking. On a rebuild it could be anything as they mix-and-match cases, but I'd expect the receipt is correct.

Here is a good listing of part numbers for alts