Where to find parts to rebuild/fix Transfer case

[captspillane]

With some looking I finally found the thread that discussed this last November. In that thread I posted alot of pictures from when I tore down several transfer cases for comparison purposes. The pictures are now a few pages back because of new discussion items.

http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=36862.15

[Eagle1984]

For someone that is trying to get ride of any possible part not working is it worth getting the NP 119 over the 129, how well does the cable to transfer case idea work?

The idea of putting a cable actuator on the transfer case is a poor one. The shifter needs about a pound of pressure applied forward to keep in 4WD and rearward to keep in 2WD. It does not click into position and stay there on its own like a NP242 in a Cherokee would. The only only cable shifters I know of are meant to be used with a NP231 or NP242, they don't work for the 129. The vacuum diaphragm was designed to pull constant tension in order to keep the shifter from popping into "false neutral."

When the transfer case gets stuck between gears the car will lurch forward, but not actually drive. It will make severe whining noises. This is what I mean by false neutral. The shifter is stuck between 4WD and 2WD and must be put back into gear and held there. It is not "Neutral" like a Cherokee transfer case would have. It will damage the transfer case if you leave it there.

If you own an Eagle with a 129, make sure you keep a 9/16th wrench in the glove box. I've had to crawl under an Eagle to pop it back into gear about a dozen times. The car has to be towed if you don't have that wrench with you.

I posted a picture on here or on the other thread showing a piece of rope tied to the shifter. I use a three to one mechanical advantage "Z rig" pattern to pull about a pound of pressure onto the shifter to keep it fully engaged. I leave it tied like that permaneantly. That essentially makes the 129 behave exactly like a 119. I prefer the 129 over the 119 slightly because I've had to crawl under, untie the rope, and tie it rearward during mechanical failure in the past. That lets you tow it or remove the front axle.

Okay then, does someone have a diagram or step by step directions of how to hook up the vacuum for just the transfer case for someone that has never done any type of that work before in there lives and has no idea of where any of the parts are on it? Not trying to sound rude or anything it is just that I have zero car experience when it comes to working or modifying cars.

[Eagle1984]

my parents just picked up a parts car 1983 Eagle Sedan for 300 dollars. Owner said it ran fine until he lost the keys and the engine started acting up. Is that a good price for one. They are thinking of using the transfer case off of it.

[priya]

The 119, 129, 229 all have the same coupler. It isn't worth repairing. The critical silicone fluid it needs to operate with is toxic and out of production. That is why its so hard to find a company willing and even able to offer a rebuilt coupler. I am also suspicious that this company is "rebuilding" it but not refilling it. That would be a glorious waste of money.

[Priya] Can you tell that the unit you received is sealed and filled with the proper amount of silicone fluid? Does anything in their documentation confirm the details of the fluid and how it was filled? It needs to have a certain percentage of fluid to empty space in order to allow thermal expansion. Too much fluid and it will lock up prematurely. Not enough and it won't lock up at all. Do they expect you to adjust the fluid level during bench testing?

It seems entirely possible to me that a company would be willing to clean up and rebuild a VC and send it back to you with no fluid in it and no means to purchase the fluid. Rebuilt does not mean refilled, ready to install. It obviously would not be worth the rebuild cost if it still doesn't function afterwards.
 

We removed my transfer case today and Ward dismantled it.  Ward bench tested the old VC and there was very little resistance to turning.  We put the new viscous coupler in the vice and put a torque wrench on it and it took 25 ft lbs to turn just as specified in the Eagle technical service manual for a good viscous coupling.  So, if you want a rebuilt viscous coupling for your NP119 you can buy it from Midwesttrans.com and they do put in a suitable replacement viscous coupling fluid that works as it should.

[captspillane]

So, if you want a rebuilt viscous coupling for your NP119 you can buy it from Midwesttrans.com and they do put in a suitable replacement viscous coupling fluid that works as it should.

That's great to hear. Thank you very much, Priya, for following up with that and checking the quality of the work. That's invaluable! Eggs!

[priya]

Thanks Captspillane.

[carnuck]

I'm surprised no-one has jumped on my NP129 for $100 in good shape yet.

[priya]

I'm surprised no-one has jumped on my NP129 for $100 in good shape yet.

Someone will want it at some point, just repost your ad every so often.

[carnuck]

I'm coming up for a major culling before I move this spring

[greymarooneightytwo]

Just wondering, why no mention of the np231 here?

I've heard that it's a very common case in junkyard jeeps, and is often in easily salvageable condition, because of the lack of viscous coupling...

Not willing to give up the viscous coupling and full time high in exchange for four wheel low?

I'm usually in 2wd anyways, I figured if I ever have transfer case issues I'd swap to either a 231 or a 242.

[carnuck]

NP231, like the NP242 has a couple issues. #1, it comes in 21 or 23 spline input, #2 it has a deeper input than the Eagle or FSJ tcases (15/16") so if you just toss it on the Eagle trans, you'll have only about 1/2 the spline making contact. #3 is the slip yoke output (fixable with a slip yoke eliminator). You still need new driveshafts to get the right length AFAIK.
   Jeep NP208 is another option, similar to NP231, but you only need a longer rear driveshaft (it's about 5" shorter overall than an Eagle's tcase but the front yoke is the same position)

[priya]

Just wondering, why no mention of the np231 here?

I've heard that it's a very common case in junkyard jeeps, and is often in easily salvageable condition, because of the lack of viscous coupling...

Not willing to give up the viscous coupling and full time high in exchange for four wheel low?

That's how I feel.

[carnuck]

If you get an NP229 (or NP228) then you get a bolt in replacement with (or without) viscous coupler that has low range. That's why I have a 727 and NP229 in my wagon because I had planned on towing with it.