For those of you whose power locks have weakened to "power assist" locks

[WoodenBirdOfPrey]

I got up the energy tonight to putter around in the garage.  I didn't want to take on anything big, so I set out to get the back windows rolling up and down smoothly again.  Some wd-40 to blast the gunk out and white lithium grease to get everything working smoothly. 

While I had the door panels off and the paper peeled back I decided to take a look at the power lock mechanisms, and see if I could figure out why they weren't working right.  Virginia, my 88 parts car, and the "crapmobile" movie car all had the same issue of the power locks being too weak to do any more than wiggle the knob, so I'm guessing this is a common problem.  The solution, at least for Virginia, was quite easy. 

I first pulled the actuator motor out (2 bolts and slip off the linkage rod).  The motors on mine seemed to be moving freely, but while I was in there I pulled the rubber boots back and shot some wd-40 in them to help loosen them up after 25 years of service, it seemed to make them work quicker and with more power.

I think the bigger issue is the locking mechanism itself though.  I again used my tried and true method of blast it with wd-40 and exercise it a few times to loosen up the gunk, blast it with wd-40 again, exercise a few times, then spray on a good coat of white lithium grease.  I focused this mostly on the locking mechanism, spraying it from inside the door, but I also made it a point to grease all the other pivots including the one directly below the lock knob. 

I put it all back together, and initally it would unlock the door but not unlock it.  I started the motor to boost the system voltage, and boom the lock worked perfectly so I exercised it up and down several times with the switch, then shut it off and it continued to work fine. 

I repeated the same process on the other side and the results were the same, except this time I didn't need to start the car to get enough power.  The only one left is the passenger side front door, I ran out of time tonight.

Does anybody remember if the driver's door is supposed to lock and unlock with the power switch?  Mine doesn't do as much as twist, and I don't really want to take the door panel off just to find out that AMC didn't include an actuator on that door from the factory for some reason.  Of course all I have to do is walk up the hill to the parts car and I'll have my answer.  But it's all the way up there.

[WoodenBirdOfPrey]

I was planning on putting keyless entry on it eventually, its nice to have. Where did you mount the unit and make the. Connections?

[mechanic80]

I recall there being a remote lock system from the factory using a 5 spade relay. There are many remote actuator kits available from the site that shall not be named, and I think patching it into the pigtail (wherever THAT is) for the locks should work.  I'll have to give that a try.  Anyone know where that harness is?

[NYEagle]

I was planning on putting keyless entry on it eventually, its nice to have. Where did you mount the unit and make the. Connections?

All I did was go to a car stereo place and have an inexpensive alarm installed. You get instant keyless entry + the bonus of having an alarm! They even installed a solenoid to pop open the trunk. It's the 3rd (Aux.) button on the remote. Best $100. I ever spent 

~ Joe in NY