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[doubey420]

JUST PICKED UP AN 82 EAGLE SX/4. RED/BLK EXTERIOR WITH BLK INTERIOR. BONE STOCK. DEALING WITH FLOAT PROBLEMS CURRENTLY. THINKING SOME VACUUM ISSUES ARE CAUSING ME TO NOT GET 4WD. ABOUT 5 WIRES CUT AND SPLICED TOGETHER IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.(REFERENCE TO A ENGINE WIRING DAIGRAM FOR 4.2L WOULD BE GREAT) FRONT LEAF SPRING MOUNTS ARE A LITTLE RUSTIER THAN I WOULD LIKE BUT SEEM TO BE SOLID STILL. DASH ILLUMINATION LIGHTS AND GAS GAUGE NOT WORKING.(CLEANED GROUND ON TANK) MISSING THE GRILL AND DOOR HANDLES. I ALSO HAVE TO SETS OF FOG LAMP WIRES... A PICTURE OF A FACTORY PLUG END WOULD SOLVE THE ISSUE OF FIGURING OUT WHICH ONE DOESNT BELONG. ALSO WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST TIRES THAT FIT STOCK HEIGHT? ANY ADVICE OR DIRECTION ON ANY OF THIS STUFF WOULD BE GREAT. WANTED ON OF THESE FOR 10 OR 11 YEARS NOW SO I AM DEFINATELY WANTING TO FIX UP ALL THIS LITTLE STUFF.

THANKS,
JUSTIN

[El Matador]

The dash illumination may just be a matter of the headlight switch being turned all the way down.  Pull the knob out and then turn it clockwise as far as it will go, and see if that lights up the dash.

As for the cut wires and such, some pictures would help greatly in tracing those problems.

Personally I wouldn't go too nuts with big tires.  I usually run 205-75-15, but the absolute biggest I would go on a stock Eagle is 215-75-15.

[WoodenBirdOfPrey]

I just got LT215-75-15 BFG AT's on my stock wagon and I get rubbing when I turn, I'm going to have to do some trimming or lift it a couple inches to make the noise go away.

It had thoroughly worn out 215-75-15 Goodyear Wrangler RTS's on it when I bought it and I didn't have rub marks in the fenders when I got it, so the BFG's are probably a little taller than average even though they're the same size.

[doubey420]

sorry bout the caps. everything is in caps here at work so i didnt even notice.

i will get a couple pictures of the cut wires. i tried turning the knob while the lights are on with no luck. dummy lights work. digital clock in gaugecluster goes away when the lights are turned on. fuse is good. no signs of mouse or rodent damage. the interior is very very clean with 2 maybe 3 bad spots through out plus headliner. but having 194,000 miles it could be the light switch is just bad. i havent really looked into yet.   

before i forget i have a serpentine alternator bracket and i am running v-belts. besides using a heat gun, pry bar, 2x4, screwdriver and three people to get the belt on it works fine but it is not adjustable. so anyone with one laying around let me know how much. it is an I6 with a/c. i used a new belt so not in a big hurry.

has anyone used 99-04 wrangler half door door handles? any fabrication necessary?

as for the tires i was looking at 205/75's guestimating the sharp turning radius was going to hinder the possibility of larger tires.

as far as mechanical issues this car doesnt seem to have anything major. so i just want to thank everyone that helps me figure out all this little piddly stuff out in advance.

[mudkicker715]

The belts are adjustable. All 3 of them.

A serpentine would need a correct backwards rotating water pump as well.

[doubey420]

i have four belts... air pump to p/s pump, water pump to crank to a/c, waterpump to crank to p/s pump, a/c to alternator. when i looked the mounting bracket up online it looked nothing like the v-belt bracket but resembled a serpentine bracket with some modification(bad welds made the fab work pretty noticable). so i did a little more work to it and made it work.

i think 205's are going to be the best route for me.

thanks for the heads up on the door handles. it would've probably taken me awhile to figure out something that simple.

[rohnk]

Anybody have a part number for those door handles and a place to buy them?

[doubey420]

i was gonna try the jeep dealership one of these days. i kinda wanna put my door panels back on. is a rear main leak common? is there anyone that manufactures the plastic bumper corners? brittle little guys crumbled off the car.

[WoodenBirdOfPrey]

Nobody makes the bumper covers.  The front ones are the same on all body styles so they aren't too hard to come by, you'll have to find another SX4 or a Kammback for the rear end caps.

If you're getting an oil leak that appears to be coming from the rear main seal, check the valve cover gasket first.  It always looks like it's coming from the rear main seal because that's where it ends up running to, but if you wipe down the block and run it a while and check again, you'll probably see the oil is running from higher than the output shaft.  If you have a plastic valve cover it's pretty much a given that it will be leaking.

[doubey420]

very good point. i forgot about the stupid valve cover.

it looks like it is coming from inside the bellhousing that is why i assumed it was the rear main. i havent seen a drastic change in oil level so not very concerned but i will have to wash it all down and see what happens.

i though about making up end caps for the bumper and forgeting the corner peices even exist. i dont think it is that noticable.

lol. i just remembered running over my tailpipe. the exhaust was rigged up under the car.(i shouldve taken a picture) anyways ran it over and it came off. is there any common exhaust upgrades done since i have the manifolds and a downpipe only right now? seemed like a pretty simple and free flowing exhaust for a 4.2L.

i am in the process of a LSX swap on an old project truck i started building before i joined the military and was wondering if anyone had ever attempted to put a LSX motor in one of these? just out of curiosity

[doubey420]

went through the vacuum for the 4x4 and the colored plastic lines for the front have been cut up. i fixed them up with regular vacuum but was wondering if anyone with a parts car might have some undamaged ones in their garage or parts car or know where to locate new ones? i am hoping the 4wd works now.

went through and cleaned up the vacuum mess last night. i am curious as to where the air pump lines run...can someone give me directions to a diagram of some sort?

[doubey420]

good call. thanks for the link. i found one but it was missing the air pump stuff. someone had edited it a little.

[doubey420]

     got the refurbed carb put it on fixed up the vacuum to follow the diagram minus a lack of vacuum line long enough to go to the accel/decel solenoid. now it is missing.  every once in awhile it smooths out for a second or two and then right back to missing. cap, rotor, wires, plugs are new and i triple checked everything. it didnt do this before i messed with the vacuum and with the old carb. so lost here. i know it is something simple.

atleast one dead cylinder except the dang thing idles fine. my next check in my mind is a compression check. it also sometimes acts like it is out of time when attempting to start but not always. i am driving it now seeing if a couple miles on her will fix'er up. any ideas are appreciated. thanks