My long awaited Eagle - A project in the works

[Will]

looking good so far.  keep up the good work.

[macdude443]

Thanks

[Billman]

This thread inspires me to get to the bottom of my honey do list so I can get to work on mine.

[max98059]

if you need a radio bezel thats in good shape i have one for free just pay shipping. great build. so what type of transmission are you going to use

[thereverendbill]

as a side note for anyone with a leaky sunroof ....... clear RTV IS NOT A FIX!!!! (comming from the guy smoothing out the roof)

[macdude443]

The sealant they used when they put it in was still plenty solid.  The leak was caused by bad weatherstripping.

Bill, I pulled the doors and brought them with me to work on this week.  There are so many small chips that it looks best to sand the whole thing.  I can do that as well as prime it after work and have them ready by next weekend.

Thanks for the radio bezel offer.  I actually got the original bezel with the car.  It has a wagon bezel installed for the din style pioneer.

[max98059]

well thats good. i am putting in a double din dvd player in my project so i am not going to cut up a good bezel.
it looks like you have your hands full. so what did you find to be the best way of getting the tar off? i have been scraping my whole car and my arm is getting sore.

[macdude443]

I scraped it up.  Most of the driver side was so rusty that it just peeled off.

[thereverendbill]

good deal, I'll give you a call about the same time on saturday and we can get the car pushing farther forward ....

[SleepsUnderCars]

looking good so far!
 let me know if there is anything else you need besides the piece Bill asked me about for the right door.

[macdude443]

Hmm, a pair of black visors with metal mounts and a decent AMC emblem, haha.

By the way Bill, I also had my buddy weld the last part of the floor and that small cut in the door skin.  He also attempted to fix the outer rocker hole but it didn't go over so well.  If you have a welder, I may need some assistance with that part before paint.

[thereverendbill]

By the way Bill, I also had my buddy weld the last part of the floor and that small cut in the door skin.  He also attempted to fix the outer rocker hole but it didn't go over so well.  If you have a welder, I may need some assistance with that part before paint.

remind me on friday about it so I can pack my truck accordingly ...... I should have my toolbox reinstalled by this weekend as well

[priya]

For the rust in the rear hatch, I wire-wheeled out as much as I could.  Then I bought a can of Eastwood Rust Converter and soaked it.  Let it cure for 48+ hours.  Then I soaked it with Eastwood Red Rust Encapsulator.  Let it run down into the seam.  Let that sit and cure for a week or two.  Then I came back, scuffed it and sprayed SprayMax 2K Epoxy Primer (in a can) on it.  I did that today.  When it cures, I have a caulk gun loaded with seam sealer that I'll put in the seam.  They shop will paint over that when it gets done.  I'm hoping with garage storage, it'll hold off the rust for a few years.

That's the aproach I'd take.  I think it'll last quite a while as long as you have the surface clean and dry before you put down caulking and paint.  I know the rust converter I use recommends wiping down the area its applied to with water after 24 hours.  When I do that I make sure I dry it with a towel and compressed air very quickly afterwards.

[macdude443]

Hmm, never heard of using water that long after the conversion process.  Mine say to use it right after the process to remove the excess.  The product from Eastwood I use here takes a good, long time to cure, but the instructions say to topcoat it, or add encapsulator after.

[macdude443]

So I removed all the trim and the decals from the doors and sanded them down.  There are like 30+ little chips in the paint from where stones hit the doors.  On the first door, I just sanded down to get them as smooth as I could, then I put high-build primer/surfacer over them.  They we still visible, so I added a few more coats.  I haven't sanded it yet.  I'm assuming when the car is block sanded they'll go away?

On the second door, I used a strip disc to take the chipped area down to bare metal.  Then I did the same thing.  On this door, you can clearly see the areas where I took it down to bare metal after the primer/surfacer dried.

Are any of these methods the right one?  Is there a trick to removing a bunch of tiny dings/chips when you re-paint a whole car?