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choke fuse

Started by brownbear, October 05, 2011, 11:10:52 AM

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brownbear

having problems with my eagle not warming up in the mornings.  It takes 10 mins before it will idle down, so I turned the key forward and checked the wire going to the choke and I read no voltage.  Is there a choke fuse or fuseable link somewhere, or should I just run a new wire to the choke?

GRONK

There should be a choke fuse in the panel if wired properly.

If not, any 12V source that is hot in the RUN position (ONLY in the RUN position) will work perfect.  Don't use an ACC positioned source.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

brownbear

It's weird but when I turned the forward and checked for voltage I had none, so I started it up and checked again and I had strong voltage.  It still took about 10 mins for it to kick down.  I was told the heat from the manifold is what makes the car idle back down once it gets hot enough.  I also noticed the voltage would drop to under 1 volt until I reved the motor then it jumped back up and then kind of bounce around.  Is the choke wire tied into the starter some how where it only gets voltage when the car is running?  Does this mean there is something wrong with my choke?

ammachine390

I don't believe there is a choke fuse, but there might be a fusible link. But, you should NOT have voltage going to the choke with the key on engine off. The oil pressure switch is what turns on the choke. Once the engine builds oil pressure, it completes the circuit turning on the choke, this is so the choke only turns on when the engine is running. The reason for this is because people would turn the key to on, engine off, leave it there, then in a few minutes the choke would be open, and the car would be harder to start. Plus it helps save the battery.

Try checking it again, see if you have 12 volts when the engine is running.
Dan
1981 AMC Concord DL 258 Auto

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BenM

I would guess either you have low oil pressure (I believe the choke triggers higher then the light) or a bad relay for the manifold heater. The relay is triggered by the choke feed.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

brownbear

I have 12volts while it's running and I have no idea if my oil pressure is low.  I will look for the sensor and see if it can be cleaned?

GRONK

Add a ground to your choke retainer.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

ammachine390

If you have 12 volts while running, and your oil pressure switch is good, then you should have enough oil pressure.
Dan
1981 AMC Concord DL 258 Auto

Click for Villa_Park, IL Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150

brownbear

the choke retainer?  where is that, one of those 3 screws that hold the choke together?

brownbear

I unplugged the choke and ran a wire straight from the battery to the choke to see what would happen.  After a min. or so the choke plate starts to open up, so to me the choke works, but why won't it idle down when it's cold?  why does it take about 10 mins if everything is working right?

mudkicker715

In the past I have run a wire from the little post on the solenoid nearest the firewall. If key is on its powered.



Manitowoc WI

GRONK

QuoteI unplugged the choke and ran a wire straight from the battery to the choke to see what would happen.  After a min. or so the choke plate starts to open up, so to me the choke works, but why won't it idle down when it's cold?  why does it take about 10 mins if everything is working right?

Because you probably need a better + or a better - connection to the choke.

Run a nice short ground tot he choke retainer if you have a single pole choke (+) if you have a dual pole choke (+ and -) then you MUST run a + and a - anyway.  I also suggest checking and replaing the + lead to the choke.  12V doesn't meen it is flowing the amperage needed for the choke.  Could simply be bad wiring on the + side or not a true ground on the - side.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

milliard431

back in the day I always replaced them with a good old fashioned manual choke

carnuck

The power doesn't get to the choke unless the motor is running (it goes through the oil switch). Sounds like the choke needs to be adjusted open slightly. I'd also lube the linkage and make sure the vacuum break is working.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

GRONK

NEVER lube choke parts.  They will collect dust/gunk and the choke will not operate properly.  No lithium grease, no WD, no mouse milk, nothing.  The choke needs to operate as dry and clean as possible.

If the choke worked w/ direct voltage, I think the answer is very clear.  The + and - need to be addressed.  There are many ways to have a proper working choke and eliminate the oil prssure switch.  See above reply.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

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