Is it worth it for this newbe??? 84 eagle

[bigskyeagle]

Hello everyone!
Help a newbe with some advice, wisdom, or just help me laugh for crying!
OK so I plunged into the world of eagles last year. I bought an 84 auto eagle with 200k on it and a rebuilt engine with 100k on it and a rebuilt carb for $800. Since then these are the things that gone wrong on it.
The back latch for the hatchback has cracked and broken and I cannot find a back latche hinge without having to pay $300 for someones none running torn up AMC.
The drivers door handle has quite working and the door has to be opened up for work.
The linkage with the auto broke and had to be welded with the result that the tramsmission shop that did it neglected to notify me that first gear was no longer working as a stand alone gear choice. They charged me $250 for the privlage of that one weld!!!
the engine burns about a quart every 500 miles yet always is faithful and gets me were I need to go.
The front ball bearings are in a need of replacement.
Gas shocks are pretty worn but I could get about 6 months more....
needs =carb replacement or rebuild as the engine is missing like it does not have fuel delivery on a pretty consistant basis. The vacume was so messed up when I got it that after a month it would not idle properly so I had a guy fix it as I dont know anything about AMC vacume for about $100
The 4x4 is making a large clunk and slipping out of 4x4 about once in every 20 times when I go up our long offroad hill.
The back brakes have been grinding and need replacement with the rotors probably needing replacement, but the front entire brake system was gone through by me and replaced.
The MPG are 18 and I dont know if that is normal with the auto.....
I dont have a garage but just a tarp lean to to fix my AMC as we go into winter!
It is not pretty, but just transportation. I messed up the door with a tree srump and my father-in-law busted the back bumper that needs baling wire and duct tape!!

OK I know it is alot of work and I dont have alot of money to replace it as I need a 4x4. I live off grid and 3 miles up a 9% grade mountain road that my Eagle loves climbing. I have a 87 Subaru with over 200k that needs an engine pull and all of the seals replaced as it leakes oil everywere. Gets 24 MPG
 I have a 72 ford F250 4x4 that is down and  needs axle work on the front and though it works the compression is not that good and it blows smoke in the morning... it gets 10 mpg


So what would you do if you were in my shoes and could not afford a mechanice but just the parts??
Positives are.... My wife loves the AMC and supports fixing!! She finds it the best ride out of what we have! It has new studded winter tires.. I am willing to try to get it ready for another winter!
Thanks for your advice...
Bigskyeagle

[DaemonForce]

A few points I can address:

You can get half-height paddle handles off of some Jeeps but they'll be flat black instead of chrome. Figure out what is causing strain on your door first. Try lifting it when open. If you have a lot of slack, replace your door hinge pins and bushings as soon as you can. You don't want to deal with replacing the striker.

The auto transmission linkage shouldn't have to be welded. The linkage itself can be replaced for $12. The replacement shifter is too expensive though. The safety linkage in mine broke one Monday morning a while back and now I just drive it with the safety off. The problem I have in this area is at night because the lighting wires setup for the shifter are horrible. I need to redo this soon.

Your engine shows a continuous drop in oil. It's either using oil or losing it. Check your crankcase ventilation valves and if they seem right, check the seal around the oil pan for leaks. I'm not telling you to drop the pan but if you suspect that to be a problem, figure out how to do it and replace the seal with one of good quality.

As for the front bearings, it's probably the upper ball joints like we've all replaced. Check them for physical damage. If they appear "exploded" at the top that's a good sign you'll want to replace them. Figure out a good practice for grinding the rivets off of them so they can be replaced. If you're dealing with steering noise, before you suspect the LOWER ball joints, just grease everything. I've missed this one zerk for 4 years until this morning: Drop the front skid plate and on the passenger side connected to the sway bar you'll see a part that needs greasing. Do that. Also while the plate is still off, look at the sway bar bushings for wear. The one next to my steering column was all chewed up. Finally found my steering noise. Replaced. :/

If your engine is missing, check the plugs and especially the wires. The carb shouldn't have to be the first thing you mess with. If you still have the problem, check your fuel filter and fuel pump.

As far as I'm able to tell about slipping 4x4, you are probably experiencing what everyone on here tends to call a "false neutral" and should probably check your vaccuum lines for leaks.

Your mileage is about the same as what I'm getting. I have a VERY low idle but the engine is still an inline 6. Swapping a manual transmission or moving to a smaller engine would raise mileage but either of these is a lot of work and I don't have the parts or patience.

Your Ford is currently a waste of space. I wouldn't bother with it unless it's your only reliable transportation. My F250s are all from 1972 and they're just garbage on wheels at a steady 5MPG.

All of what I mentioned here strikes a note with me because I've dealt with it all. I am just finishing up a VERY long rebuild with my Eagle and I've only spent about $240. In short, transmission valve body blew up, torque converter gave problems, crankcase pressure was blowing too much oil out of the engine, cooling lines were shot, vaccuum lines were leaking, transfer case studs were damaged, starter solenoid was sticking, drivelines were missing bearings and I'm currently fixing an exhaust leak. I'll probably overhaul the engine at the end of the year but that's about all I have to do to it. I've gotten used to tearing this type of car apart. I only wish there was more light in the day for doing so.

[jim]

To keep it in 4X4 until more pressing matters are resolved, you can tie back the lever on the side of the transfer case.  I locked my front axle in with a hose clamp and wired the transfer case in 4X4 for the winter.