Swapping new half-shaft assembly?

[DaemonForce]

I'm having a bit of a dilemma going about this. I have a front outer CV boot on the passenger side that appears to have torn within the last 24 hours. I probably drove the Eagle about 3 miles with it like this and I don't hear any clicking noises or anything. Normally I would just reboot this thing but I need this ready by next week for very long trips and I can't risk anything even LOOKING wrong let alone going wrong while I'm 100+mi away. Rather than take this as it comes I'm just going to replace both half-shafts. Rather than do my own assembly, it appears much cheaper to buy two pre-assembled units and swap them in. Does anyone have any experience with these or am I taking too much of a risk?

It looks really stupid easy to me but the real problem I have is with a senile engine mechanic that pesters me to NOT do this. I don't want to spend the $400 for a tire company to replace these when I'm far more comfortable doing all the labor myself but I just want to get this in and done while dealing with as little drama as I can. Am I wrong?

[jim]

There has been a great deal of discussion about this.  Many of us have done it.  It isn't rocket science but is rather labor intensive.  It can be difficult to remove the big nut on the outer end and also the bolts on the inside.  There tips about those issues, and there is a really good write up in the eaglepedia.
Some of us, me in particular, have had problems with remanufactured half shafts.  I had several with incorrect spline ends.  I have never had a problem with a new half shaft.
Do lots of research on this site.  I just hope that information wasn't lost in the recent data loss.

[DaemonForce]

It can be difficult to remove the big nut on the outer end and also the bolts on the inside.

This isn't a big concern to me...Yet.

Some of us, me in particular, have had problems with remanufactured half shafts.  I had several with incorrect spline ends.  I have never had a problem with a new half shaft.

Suggestions?

Do lots of research on this site.  I just hope that information wasn't lost in the recent data loss.

I tried looking up some stuff about this and something from Google usually pointed me to a part of this forum that either doesn't exist or I don't have the permission to view it. I've seen a few things about CV half-shafts on the Eaglepedia but it's not very in-depth. Do you believe it's a better idea to get a new CV boot kit with a new half-shaft just in case I have a problem with the remanufactured shafts? Like I said, there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with what I've got other than a torn boot so I might be able to save it. I'm not expecting a problem with these remanufactured parts but if it happened to you there's a pretty good chance it would happen to me as well. This car is sort of a giant pink spotted unicorn like that when it comes to certain things that should be so dead simple. I don't really have a lot of room for fail even though I'm supposed to have the time to be doing this.

[maximus7001]

It is quite easy to do. If you only have one nasty boot then only one shaft really has to be changed. Your eagle does not even have to leave the ground. Six 8mm allen bolts and the big center nut, 36mm or 1 3/8" will both fit, you might need a 1 7/16" if the nut is not original or the new one is that size.

The hub end comes out last and goes in first torqued to 175 foot pounds (with the wheel on the ground) then further tighten to align the cotter pin (do not loosen). The 8mm flange bolts get 45 foot pounds in a pattern like lug nuts.

As far as drama goes the newer cv boots being used on these recently can and probably will rub on the grease fitting of quality replacement lower ball joint like moog. Factory lower ball joints have no fitting so no rub. Also reject any shaft that is not assembled correctly. As in the boot straps being misaligned or crooked.

This link will show you the only solution for the rubbing while still being able to grease the lower ball joint, made by Scott Drake industries, a regular 90 degree fitting will kill the boot quickly: http://www.aapd.net/cmpdetail.aspx?ID=4005

[DaemonForce]

It is quite easy to do. If you only have one nasty boot then only one shaft really has to be changed. Your eagle does not even have to leave the ground.

The thing is, I know what causes every other part on this car to fail. I DON'T know what tore this CV boot especially since I made note of it being in great looking condition the night before. Whatever the case, the boot is torn and that more than likely means I'll need new bearings, a new seal and axle as well as the new boot. If I can avoid messing with this until I have a time where I'm free of interruptions, so much the better. Is it normal for you guys to swap out pre-built axles or do you tend to try salvaging whatever possible? The real reason I ask is because I don't know anyone that has done this before.

Also reject any shaft that is not assembled correctly. As in the boot straps being misaligned or crooked.

I'll keep this in mind.

This link will show you the only solution for the rubbing while still being able to grease the lower ball joint, made by Scott Drake industries, a regular 90 degree fitting will kill the boot quickly: http://www.aapd.net/cmpdetail.aspx?ID=4005

This is cool. Thanks!

[maximus7001]

I would not be worried about bearings unless you have an issue with them. They are quite expensive to replace. I just finished completely redoing a hub and it cost $100 for parts and about $135 for a machine shop to rebuild it. Although $10 of it was for the grease gun tube and I got the remainder for my grease gun.

[DaemonForce]

I would not be worried about bearings unless you have an issue with them. They are quite expensive to replace. I just finished completely redoing a hub and it cost $100 for parts and about $135 for a machine shop to rebuild it.

WHY would it cost you that much? I have no idea what I'm doing and even I believe you're doing it wrong.

My list has a pre-assembled half-shaft, an outer CV boot kit and an inner CV boot kit. More than likely something will happen to the other axle pretty soon if these really found a way to wear out on their own. I'm going to attempt to salvage the current axle as a possible replacement when that happens and ultimately replace it as a very last resort. I can't see myself spending more than $180 on axles, boots, tools, grease and other maintenance stuff before going to someone for rotation and alignment. I have too many spare parts around here anyway. There's sure to be something useful in my junk pile.

[eaglefreek]

I've driven with a torn boot for a year without any problems. I finally replaced it because I got sick of all the grease slinging out. It's not too difficult to do. Air tools definitely make the job easier and I would recommend a small torch to heat the bolts that hold the half shaft to the axle flange. They typically have Loctite on them and can be a bear to loosen. I remember reading here about the boots tearing and someone noticed the number of pleats were different than the factory and that contribute to the premature tearing. The most important thing is torquing the axle nut properly so that the hub bearings don't fail.

[DaemonForce]

Oh God, today was a real trip. I got the wheel off, finally figured out how the caliper comes off after I told my grandfather he was stripping the bolt(Torx end means TORX END! -_-). 2x13mm bolts out so far, now the 3x12mm ones that come off...The one at the bottom is a bit difficult to get to without moving the arm that goes underneath the axle. I'll somehow remove that tomorrow morning but I can at least say they were firmly rusted shut like one would expect.

I know I already said I want to replace the axle but I also see the value in salvaging the one I intend to remove. I want to reboot it. Does anyone have anything to say about the Dorman 614003 boot? The only thing that worries me is the type of clamp used in the kit. I know the one on my currently torn boot has ears that get pressed inward but I don't have any special tools related to doing this. My grandfather is scared stupid about anything related to steering and brakes and thus knows nothing about this and has none of the tools to work on any of it. I have way too much courage to say no to something I don't know but there are various clamp styles for these boots and I kind of need to know what it is before getting it. Can anyone point out what should be painfully obvious? :/

Also, what is with these split-design boot kits? Really? Is it worth trying to cut corners by making an inferior seal and quickly ending up in the same situation(if not worse) at an even more inconvenient time? I just don't understand this. :/

Oh yeah, one more thing: I notice there are a ton of grommets in really nasty shape. Sway bar, ball joints, other areas I'm not able to identify yet...All have nasty rubber grommets. Is there an easy way around this? I kind of want to avoid buying several replacement kits if I can and these really need to be in far better shape than they are right now.

[mudkicker715]

To replace a half shaft you technically do not even need to remove the tire. So the caliper could have stayed.

Obviously you do not want a split boot.

[DaemonForce]

To replace a half shaft you technically do not even need to remove the tire. So the caliper could have stayed.

No it couldn't have. This is an Eagle: a constant work in progress. My progress with maintenance has been slower than most would deem favorable. In fact, it has been very very bad. Because of this, I have a lot more work to do than just replacing a simple CV boot and my assumptions as to the condition of everything around it has been far better than it really is. In short: It can't be trusted.

In just the steering area I see several pieces that are ready to fail any week and I can prevent this right now. Leaving the wheel on doesn't change the fact that it's true. Don't get me started on the rest of the car. I have a time and place to fix the rest of this but I prefer to take care of failing parts as I see them.

[Whuntmore]

Some of us, me in particular, have had problems with remanufactured half shafts.  I had several with incorrect spline ends.  I have never had a problem with a new half shaft.

I didn't know you could get new half-shafts.  all I see here in reman shafts.

[Canoe]

I didn't know you could get new half-shafts.  all I see here in reman shafts.

Part No. NCV82001 November 15, 2010 $171.18 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_New-CV-Axle-Shaft-Assembly-GSP_20870611-P_945_R|GRP60007____

[Whuntmore]

Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.

If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?

[Canoe]

Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.
If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?

Go compare the population of Canada vs. the States.
I forget the exact numbers, but for a rad I believe it was one choice for ~$400 CAD. In the States, there were several choices. I got a premium 3-core for $263.
Alternators: one reman choice ~$230?, vs. several new choices for less (and as little as $60), including a 98 amp 12SI @3:00 with warranty I got for around $100.