slight whistle noise after new front axle and hub

[maximus7001]

Greetings.

Finally got the new half shafts in there and the driver side hub rebuilt.  Have driven it about 200km since then. Later at night when it is cool enough to drive with the windows down I can hear a very quiet whistle noise coming from the driver front wheel area. I have tried coasting to a stop with the engine off in neutral and drive, makes no difference with brakes or no brakes. The noise starts when going slower than 20km and continues down to a stop.

The center nut was apparently tightened to 175 ft/lb. Does this value change after being driven for a few days? Anyone remember values of theirs when rechecking torque and if it needed to be tightened and by how much?

The shield was painted gloss black.

 

[AMC of Houston]

I have heard dry grease seals make that kind of noise.   Maybe the hub seal didn't get a fine coat of lube on the seal lip(s).   As a test, you could put a shot of WD40 into where the outer CV goes into the hub.   Maybe it would get on the seal and quiet it down for a little bit (if that's the problem).

[txjeeptx]

I can also think of fresh CV boots squeaking as the folds/bellows come into and out of contact with each other. You can put a light coat of WD or your preference of rubber protectant on the new CV boots to see if they're the source of the squeak.

[maximus7001]

Well, well, well, we found our little whistle. The half shaft is wrong. Both shafts were bought at the same time, same box & part # and one has a bigger outside joint and boot. It bolted up alright and works ok except the lower ball joint grease fitting is rubbing on the boot and has worn halfway through it. This is the second time in less than a year that I have had major problems with fenco brand. This is going to cost me $75 to r&r this junk. Last time it was a six month old new fenco water pump on my van that exploded and took out the fan, clutch, belt and coolant plus a tow and $200 in labour.

Check this out, the new ball joint is even a lower profile than stock.


This is the other side, obviously smaller diameter joint.

[txjeeptx]

Quick short term fix is to remove the ball joint's grease fitting(if you can), and replace it with a plug or an inverted/recessed type grease fitting, and run that oversize CV until its time to replace it again. When you go to grease that ball joint, you'll have to remove the plug or get a grease needle and inject it through the boot or through the recessed fitting, if you can get it in there.

[maximus7001]

The part store has got me another half shaft from a local rebuilder (Autoline). I have not made it there to pick it up and inspect it yet. I cut the grease fitting in half with an air saw as a temporary fix. About half an ounce of grease has oozed out of the topless grease fitting since. The whistle is still there.

Also the inner cv boot is leaking and flinging grease all over the place.



Oozing grease:


This came from the inner boot:

[txjeeptx]

Wonderin what application the incorrect 1/2 shaft came from - possibly a Jeep Liberty? Maybe a Dodge Dakota pickup?

CV grease is some nasty sticky stuff, too bad about the leak, but you'll have it fixed when you get the correct shaft in.

[maximus7001]

Wonderin what application the incorrect 1/2 shaft came from - possibly a Jeep Liberty? Maybe a Dodge Dakota pickup?

CV grease is some nasty sticky stuff, too bad about the leak, but you'll have it fixed when you get the correct shaft in.

I am guessing that whatever it was supposed to be from has a larger turning radius since I am getting binding on full steering lock when turning left.

[mudkicker715]

Wonderin what application the incorrect 1/2 shaft came from - possibly a Jeep Liberty? Maybe a Dodge Dakota pickup?

CV grease is some nasty sticky stuff, too bad about the leak, but you'll have it fixed when you get the correct shaft in.

I am guessing that whatever it was supposed to be from has a larger turning radius since I am getting binding on full steering lock when turning left.

4 cyl eagles had smaller halfshafts. They bolt up and work in my experience of using them. However my knowledge of seeing them smaller is from what i seen at the boneyards on 4cyl eagles versus my 4 6cyl eagles, and all other 6cyl eagles i seen.

[maximus7001]

Went to get the new shaft from the parts store today, came from a local rebuilder (autoline). Opened up the box and guess what was inside? Yes you guessed right, the wrong shaft again. Is there anywhere that has the correct shaft anymore? Is anyone else encountering this? Did anyone else have a problem with a cv boot rubbing on the zerk of a lower Moog ball joint? Can anyone check the clearance on their Eagle and maybe post some pics?

The only guess I have is that since there is a shortage of proper cores that all the rebuilders are substituting something else that bolts up.

[maximus7001]

While waiting for yet another shaft from my parts supplier I went for a ride today and looked at half shafts from 5 different part stores. They are all the same, mind you they are assembled better but still have that large offending boot.

Once the new shaft is in the only solution for the rubbing is this, made by Scott Drake industries: http://www.aapd.net/cmpdetail.aspx?ID=4005


I am surprised that I am the only one who noticed the contact with the grease fitting. I am sure that everybody else just did not notice and is running it like that wondering why they are going through boots.