That diagnostic connector diagram will be helpful, maybe not now, but definitely in the future, thank you very much.
I should be able to track down at least the temp switch from that. Do you know how they're supposed to work, such as if the motor is running and the switch is open, would it be 12V and when it closes it's 0V? Vice versa?
Yes, it does have the stepper motor on the Carter BBD, I'm not entirely sure if it works.
I don't know if it's a California model, I doubt it. No stickers survived and most of the stamped plates are not very legible thanks to a Maaco paint job by the PO. I stripped the paint, this was a BAAAAAAAAD paint job. I'm surprised they didn't paint over the chrome it's that bad.
A little history, my grandmother bought this Jeep for me back when I was 16. The only major problem I had was one of the transmission cooling lines sprung a leak and emptied the tranny before I knew about it. This caused the 727 to cook itself.
That was repaired and later I went to school the next county over, seeing as this beast gets about 13 MPG IIRC, I opted for a more economical Subaru hatchback that got 27 MPG. The Jeep sat and while I intended to sell it, some family issues interfered and it never happened. It's last inspection sticker ran out in 1996.
Here it is 16 years later, I've got kids, we all ride dirt bikes and go camping.
Believe it or not, we used a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am as our hauler. However, kids grow up and cars grow old. With 232,000 miles on the Pontiac, the tired old engine was struggling to pull three youth/adult bikes and a "mini", four people and gear. Not to mention packing for a trip was a choreographed dance like puzzle solution which the only benefit was the ability to build a "wall" of sleeping bags or packs of clothing between the two kids. My daughter who was riding the mini grows like a weed and is now as tall as her mom at 11 years old. She's now riding a youth sized bike which is just slightly smaller than a small adult model, in fact, many women ride this size bike and it fits them well.
It was time to move to something better suited to hauling a trailer and gear and something with more space on the inside since riding areas in PA are pretty far from where I live and we often ride out of state.
Enter the Jeep, again. However, it's been a long journey because I didn't mothball it properly when I parked her all those years ago. If you're interested, the complete journal is here:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10152657 If you're into restorations, or as I'm calling this one a "Rust-o-ration", I think you'll appreciate it.
The reason I did the head swap was because when I attempted to tune the carb using a vacuum gauge (I'll admit, I'm not very well versed in this, but following the guideline "try to achieve the highest possible vacuum at idle"), the gauge went berserk: (bad animation, although accurate, I intend to make a better one later)
I know this means several possibilities, but they're all related to the head, most likely requiring refreshing the valves, and I doubted that it was something as simple as a loose spark plug.
One cylinder only had 90PSI of compression as well.
Also, the valve train was very noisy which was initially blamed on clogged lifters.
So I decided since I needed to pull the head, I may as well upgrade it.
(this is also detailed in the thread linked above, page six: post #58)
Long story short, I found my valve train noise and most likely my funky vacuum was due not to a valve problem, but several bent push rods, which I'm keeping my fingers crossed will arrive at PepBoys this week. While I already had purchased the head and most of the related items, even throwing new push rods in is no guaranteed solution since what ever bent them in the first place would likely bend the replacements too, push rods aren't exactly the strongest components.
It definitely makes more power, starts easier and is quieter (I have the 0.060" too short 4.0L push rods in so I could get it to the inspection station). Unfortunately, I can't credit anything to the head swap since my old valve train was so screwed up. Others have reported a 40 hp increase if you do the head and fuel injection. I personally believe that the head and exhaust manifold alone would make a huge increase over stock because the design of the manifold is so much better, the combustion chamber appears to be smaller than the 258 and most of all, the valves appear to be the perfect maximum size (again, if you're into this, you know that there's such a thing as valves being too big).
Also, compression on all the cylinders is within reason, 145-160 PSI.
I'd definitely give this a shot on an Eagle 258 or 4.2L motor. I'm not sure if the Eagles ever came with the 232, but if they did, I'd research the swap for that too.
The one thing I'd be concerned about, not having researched this for an Eagle at all, is the exhaust after the manifold or header - I don't think you'll luck out and be able to make the baby Cherokee down pipe work, so you should plan on a trip to an exhaust shop after you've buttoned everything up. I'll be more than happy to share anything I've learned from the head swap if you'd like to know.
Topic: Help me put my wiring back together (Read 11333 times)