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Electric transfer case vacuum servo?

Started by rohnk, June 21, 2011, 10:20:51 PM

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rohnk

So I was thinking about replacing the vaccuum servo on the transfer case with an electric motor to switch between 2 and 4 wheel drive. The benefit to this would be better reliability than the vaccuum system. I know these work well when they work but vaccuum lines leak or break all the time. Just thought of the modification as an idea. Thoughts?

eaglefreek

It's been talked about in the past, but I don't recall anyone doing it. Do you have an idea of which servo you would use?
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thereverendbill

there is a writeup in the eaglepedia of a cable operated unit
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rollguy

Quote from: thereverendbill on June 21, 2011, 10:57:44 PM
there is a writeup in the eaglepedia of a cable operated unit

I think a cable would be the best.
1980 Eagle Turbodiesel Wagon (only 2 known to exist as of 2008)- 7-7-2011 Flight to it's new nest @ Rambler Ranch
1983 Eagle Wagon  Tan over Copper
1982 Eagle SX4 "ALTREGL"  (avatar photo)
1982 Eagle 4 Door Sedan  Copper over Satin Black
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1985 Mitsubishi pickup (2.3 Turbodiesel)

rohnk

I read the article about the change to a cable and I like the idea but don't like that the handle sticks out of the floor between the seats.

My thought would be to try and keep the existing switch location and appearance but modify it to switch an electric solenoid. I have no idea what servo or solenoid to use as I haven't thought it through that far, but I was interested in the idea.

Maybe an electric solenoid from a garden tractor lift mechanism would work. It wouldn't need to be anything really heavy as the lever does not require a lot of force to switch between 2 or 4 wheel drive. A bracket would need to be fabricated of course, but all of that could be hidden under the skid plate.

twoslowinwyo

check these out, you might find what you need here. i have used this co. products in the past and they make good products. LAZ

http://www.solenoids.com/
LAZ
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rollguy

Quote from: rohnk on June 22, 2011, 09:08:12 AM
I read the article about the change to a cable and I like the idea but don't like that the handle sticks out of the floor between the seats.

My thought would be to try and keep the existing switch location and appearance but modify it to switch an electric solenoid. I have no idea what servo or solenoid to use as I haven't thought it through that far, but I was interested in the idea.

Maybe an electric solenoid from a garden tractor lift mechanism would work. It wouldn't need to be anything really heavy as the lever does not require a lot of force to switch between 2 or 4 wheel drive. A bracket would need to be fabricated of course, but all of that could be hidden under the skid plate.
Some (or most) garden tractors have a linear actuator (12v) for raising and lowering the deck.  The problem with something like this, is that force they exert will break something if the gears don't quite line up.  If there is some type of solenoid that has enough power to shift the gears, but not enough to FORCE them into meshing (thereby breaking something), that would be good.  It would also need to be slow actuating.   Something fast like a starter solenoid would surely break something.   That is why they engineered the shift mechanism with vacuum in the Eagle.  Vacuum will put a small amount of pressure until the  gears mesh.  Most of the later 4X4 shift mechanisms are electric actuated, so you may want to look into how they operate. 
1980 Eagle Turbodiesel Wagon (only 2 known to exist as of 2008)- 7-7-2011 Flight to it's new nest @ Rambler Ranch
1983 Eagle Wagon  Tan over Copper
1982 Eagle SX4 "ALTREGL"  (avatar photo)
1982 Eagle 4 Door Sedan  Copper over Satin Black
1985 Eagle Sport Wagon October 2007 ROTM (SOLD)
4 Biofuel powered Benzs ('98 E300, '82 300 CD, '82 300 TD (wagon), '80 240 D)
1983 GMC Van (6.2 Diesel)
1985 Mitsubishi pickup (2.3 Turbodiesel)

rohnk

My dad took a convertible top motor from a T-bird and mounted it on his John Deere 110 to raise and lower the snowblower and mower deck. The way he has it wired it that it only moves when he is holding the momentary switch that gives it power. This gives him infinite places to stop throughout the motion of travel on the motor. I know, WAY to much torque for this application, but a simple idea.

My thought is that is the length of travel on the shifting arm is (for the sake of discussion) 1/2", then I would use a slow moving solenoid powered from 12V with a degree of travel of 3/8". This means that if the gears were not meshed when activated, it would simply stop at it full length of travel (or as far as it could travel) and hold pressure until the vehicle rolled a little bit for everything to "click" in. You could control the amount of pressure by moving the solenoid forward or backward slightly to increase or decrease pressure.

At least this is my simplistic view of the idea!

GRONK

What about something as simple as a 12V idle solenoid form a Motorcraft.  Positive engaugement, short throw, inexpensive.  I have about 500 of them if you want to try.  Pay shipping and I'll send you a few.
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"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

rohnk

Thanks for the offer Gronk! It is a good idea to try those. I'd have to use one for the front axle and one for the transfer case. The throw on the front axle is 0.64" if I remember right from the Eaglepedia. I don't know how long the throw is on the transfer case. How much movement do those solenoids have?

GRONK

Probaby a little over 1/2"  I'll dig some out.  I believe some are sdjustible too.  I have used these for all sorts of things in the past.  VERY simple to work with.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

jim

Quote from: rohnk on June 22, 2011, 12:19:27 PM
Thanks for the offer Gronk! It is a good idea to try those. I'd have to use one for the front axle and one for the transfer case. The throw on the front axle is 0.64" if I remember right from the Eaglepedia. I don't know how long the throw is on the transfer case. How much movement do those solenoids have?
To simplify it you could lock in the front axle and eliminate one complete set up.
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rohnk

Nice idea to lock the front axle. I didn't think of that! What is a safe way of locking it that is reversible in case it doesn't work out? I'd hate to weld the thing together and mess soemthing else up!

rollguy

Quote from: rohnk on June 22, 2011, 03:56:03 PM
Nice idea to lock the front axle. I didn't think of that! What is a safe way of locking it that is reversible in case it doesn't work out? I'd hate to weld the thing together and mess soemthing else up!
Hose clamp around the shaft of the shift fork.
1980 Eagle Turbodiesel Wagon (only 2 known to exist as of 2008)- 7-7-2011 Flight to it's new nest @ Rambler Ranch
1983 Eagle Wagon  Tan over Copper
1982 Eagle SX4 "ALTREGL"  (avatar photo)
1982 Eagle 4 Door Sedan  Copper over Satin Black
1985 Eagle Sport Wagon October 2007 ROTM (SOLD)
4 Biofuel powered Benzs ('98 E300, '82 300 CD, '82 300 TD (wagon), '80 240 D)
1983 GMC Van (6.2 Diesel)
1985 Mitsubishi pickup (2.3 Turbodiesel)

mudkicker715

Quote from: rohnk on June 22, 2011, 03:56:03 PM
Nice idea to lock the front axle. I didn't think of that! What is a safe way of locking it that is reversible in case it doesn't work out? I'd hate to weld the thing together and mess soemthing else up!

Its in the eaglepedia



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