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  • November 21, 2024, 09:36:31 PM

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Author Topic: ball joint removal  (Read 11323 times)

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Offline shanebo

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2011, 11:49:28 PM »
Dude...I went to autozone today...I was actually thinking about getting ball joints for ginger....The cheapest set was over 200.00!!!! Looks like those will have to go on my mile long wish list for now....Maybe ill just focus on the oil pump or  tie rod bushings...or somthing a little less spendy....I could have had my tranny rebuilt for the cost of that stupid insureance bill!!....It cuz my wife got like 6 hefty tickets she didnt tell me about over the past year.....That was the price for six months, but its still 300.00 higher than it was last december.
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Offline maddog

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2011, 02:29:48 AM »
maybe it's a good thing i'm single. :rotfl: i found out today that my left front wheel bearings are on their way out so i had a fun time today trying to find the right ones. oh and i'm pretty sure that o'reilly's hates me now. >:D >:D :rotfl:
1998 CHEVY S10 (DAILY DRIVER/PROJECT) INTIMIDATIN'
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1983 AMC EAGLE LIMITED WAGON-SURVIVOR (gone)
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Offline vangremlin

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #17 on: June 26, 2011, 11:38:39 AM »
Dude...I went to autozone today...I was actually thinking about getting ball joints for ginger....The cheapest set was over 200.00!!!!

Looks like you can get them from Rock Auto for much less, probably $60-100
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
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Offline AMCKen

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2011, 01:07:50 AM »
At one time, and maybe still, the lower joints were considered not replaceable. You were supposed to buy a whole new lower arm with the joint already riveted in. Perhaps there wasn't supposed to be enough room for bolt heads that near the CV boot. 
Rivet heads underneath? How can you tell? The part that sticks out on the top of the upper arm is what you'll be knocking off.
39Master85w.partscar,67Marlin343,68AMX343,70Machine,73Matador2drht401,
73-74-75-76GremlinXs,75PacerX,76Hornet2dsd,76-77Matadorcpes,
2-77AMXs304,78AMX304,78GremlinGT,78Concordsw,79Concordhb,79PacerDL304,
2-79AMXs304/401,2-80AMXs258/401,80SpiritDL304, 80Eagle4dsdn,3-81SX4s,
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Offline shanebo

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #19 on: June 29, 2011, 02:05:08 AM »
Dont sweat it Maddog...Auto Zone will always take ya back...LOL :rotfl:
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Offline maddog

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #20 on: June 29, 2011, 02:52:42 AM »
they never got rid of me infact i have one of their rewards cards. as for the rivits the flat part is supposed to be on top right. and the lower ball-joints are replaceable i just have to remove the strut rod to do so.
1998 CHEVY S10 (DAILY DRIVER/PROJECT) INTIMIDATIN'
1980 AMC EAGLE WAGON (PROJECT) EAGLE EYES
http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=30758.0
1983 AMC EAGLE LIMITED WAGON-SURVIVOR (gone)
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Offline AMCKen

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Re: ball joint removal
« Reply #21 on: July 04, 2011, 01:38:34 PM »
Which ever part of the rivet is on top is the one I knock off. So to me, it doesn't matter which end it is.  ;)
39Master85w.partscar,67Marlin343,68AMX343,70Machine,73Matador2drht401,
73-74-75-76GremlinXs,75PacerX,76Hornet2dsd,76-77Matadorcpes,
2-77AMXs304,78AMX304,78GremlinGT,78Concordsw,79Concordhb,79PacerDL304,
2-79AMXs304/401,2-80AMXs258/401,80SpiritDL304, 80Eagle4dsdn,3-81SX4s,
81SpiritGT,2-81Concord4dsd,82Eaglesw,2-85Eaglesw,2-80J20/360,85J10/258,2-88Eaglesw,
94Sentra2dsd   (42)

 

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