Summer Job!

[68AMXGOPAC]

I think you've got that left hand washer on backwards for the strut rod bushing.

X2 on that it is backwards for sure, I just looked at mine in the garage, not sure how it is it ended up that way for you.

[68AMXGOPAC]

maybe it was manufactured incorrectly. My bushings and washers were seperate from each other, I have never seen them molded together like that - so I don't know what to say now ?? But your suspicion is correct, it looks wrong and surely isn't compressing much bieng that way with  both of the contact points ( washer to bushing) bieng the smallest of surface area on each.

[Baskinator]

Who knows, maybe they sent me the wrong part. I know RockAuto got about six other things wrong in that order, so it's quite possible. But they did seem to be holding firm, much better than the old bushings. It's not that hard to change it if I have to, and maybe they'll get fixed when I get an alignment later.

[ammachine390]

Mine are the same way. I am guessing you bought Moog bushings. The washers and bushings are made as 1 unit

[Baskinator]

Yep, Moog bushings. I heard they were the best ones, and they were also the cheapest.

[maddog]

when i put new ones on Eagle Eyes the ones they gave at the parts store were just like that so i fixed them to the way they are supposed to be.

[mach1mustang351]

I have these Moog bushings as well and I haven't installed them yet.  What is interesting about the "backwards" washer is they are stamped which position they are supposed to be in.  It would probably take a phone call to Moog but this may have something to do with these being "problem solver" parts.  Just a thought. 

[Baskinator]

It's too bad they didn't just put a little slip in the box showing how it should look, that would make it much more clear.

[Baskinator]

So I got to see my Eagle over the weekend. Replaced the Carter vacuum choke pull-off with a new one I got a while back. Charged the battery and she started right up with no problem. I added some more fluid to the trans after checking once, but didn't get to re-check the level because I ran out of gas.

The Eagle is nestled safely under my carport with a new cover to protect from the elements. It will remain there until summer time again when I get a chance to seriously work on it. I got another car recently to get me around, so I've decided to go the extra mile and do either the 4.0 head swap, or just drop the entire 4.0 engine in. I'm working on a deal to acquire a '91 H.O. with the entire stock FI setup, so I can eventually replace the carb. If I'm able to remove the current engine at some point, it will allow me to do a much more thorough rust protection/paintjob on the engine compartment.

The dreaming has only just begun, but the wheels are in motion to make it happen. This baby will be awesome when I'm done with it

[Baskinator]

I am getting a fuel injected 4.0!!!

The email I received from the gentleman:

Hi Phil,
 
I can deliver it this week-end for no gas money to your place in Schwenksville for $400 - $65 = $335 cash total.  I have attached all the pics I have of the motor and associated parts so you can see them full size.  If there is any specific pictures you would like I can take them tonight and send them to you tonight.
 
I went to your link on the SX website a few e-mails ago and the only thing I request is that you include my e-mail in your updates on your progress with your project.  The other thing I think it would be best if you came to my house first in Westtown just off of Routes 352 and 926 to see what you are getting just to make sure this is what you want.  Then I could follow you back to your place.
 
I will also include some manuals I have that have wiring diagrams to help you wire it up.  It won't be easy but you can do it.  You can even use me as a resource for technical info / guidance.  My comanche was an 87 with a standard 4.0Litre with Renix - Bendix (French) fuel injection and what I was going to upgrade to is the 91-96 4.0 Litre High Output with Chrylers fuel injection system.  I have been modifing cars for a long time.  I have ASE Certification as a Master Automobile Technician since 1984.  I don't know it all but what I do know I'm willing to share, and I do know what I do NOT know when it comes to cars and you will too!!
 
As a side note I used to live in Skippack a long time ago and I am very familiar with the area and I would love to relocate back to that area (especially on 12 accres!!!!)  but I don't think I could convince my wife!!!
 
Anyhow, let me know what you think.
 
Thanks,
Howard

This is the entire '91 H.O. 4.0, 80,000 miles, with both manifolds, valve cover, 2 fuel rails and sets of injectors, complete wiring harness, throttle cable(s), 2 ECMs, flexplate and flywheel, distributor, new oil pump, new timing chain and gears, new water pump, new thermostat, new engine mounts, manuals with wiring diagrams, some gaskets, an engine stand, and free delivery- all for $335 and trades for a Pneumatic Stapler and a halogen work light. I got lucky on this find, and I'm so excited! I should be going home this coming weekend to buy it and start a new chapter on my Eagle.

This was supposed to be a rebuild and swap candidate for Howard's late, great '87 Comanche, but unfortunately for him (and Jeep lovers everywhere) the Comanche was totaled and the swap was never completed. Now the torch is passed to me, and I WILL complete my Eagle no matter what it takes.

[Baskinator]

Well haha, that would be cool. But one of my main objectives is to make it more fuel efficient, and I really don't wanna have to use anything but regular fuel. If it was just going to become a "few times a summer" show car, I wouldn't mind, but I would rather be able to drive it often. I'll turn my next Eagle into a stroker when I can afford performance parts 

[Baskinator]

Yesterday's haul:


Engine looks good, just needs a bit of cleaning up and de-rusting. The great part is it came with almost every gasket and part I will need to rebuild and install the MPI, plus a few extras.

I still have a few things to do today, so I'll update again later. I started tearing it down yesterday, but didn't get real far.

Exhaust header is cracked in the couple usual places, but either my brother will weld it for me or I'll get a $90 one from the 'bay.


Intake with a spare throttle body


Valve Cover and timing case ready to be cleaned up

[68AMXGOPAC]

I would go with the one Captspilane recomended he found on the bay, seems it has flex pipe where it needs it so it doesn't crack, if you can swing it.I need to do the same for my 4.0 if I ever get to put it in , as it has the solid exhaust like you are showing.

[captspillane]

You're on a tighter budget than most, so I'm assuming that you won't use the expensive Hesco CPS kit. This is something I'll do as well since the Hesco kit is relatively fragile. The Crank Position Sensor can be installed on your TF998 if you buy a flexplate with the proper notches. Here is some information I found today.

You need to get a flexplate from a 1991 to 1995 YJ Wrangler. (A 93 to 96 Grand Cherokee supposedly has the same flexplate). You can use either the square XJ sensor or the round YJ sensor. If you use the round YJ sensor you just need to drill a half inch hole in the bellhousing. If you get the square one you will need to make a much larger hole in the bellhousing. You put a thin piece of cardboard the thickness of a matchbook cover on the sensor and then adjust that snug to the flexplate. A new sensor actually comes with the cardboard in place. I attached a picture from the Novak website with their solution.

A Renix style flexplate and an AW4 flexplate will not work. 1990 and older sensors had different trigger notches. The AW4 flexplate puts the torque converter 5mm closer to the transmission, which will quickly do alot of damage.

I've also seen evidence that the 97-04 sensors use 5 volts while the 91-96 use 8 volts.

All of the Jeep transmissions are clocked the same except the NSG370. That has the same notches clocked differenty on the flywheel to match the different hole. You'll have to measure the spacing between the bellhousing bolts on my AW4 or AX15.

http://www.amceaglenest.com/images/PDFS/Joshs%204.0%20Walkthrough.pdf
 

[Baskinator]

The header will depend mainly on whether or not I can afford it, but hopefully I'll be able to by the time I actually install everything (shooting for sometime near the end of summer).

I'm glad you linked that write-up, Dave. I feel like I've seen it before, but I don't know where. I might just get one of those flexplates new when it comes time, they're about $50-60 online.

My wiring harness will take some major sorting out, and I hope the ECM/PCM modules are usable. The good looking one was chopped off like an inch from where the wires go in, and the other that's still attached has a broken case.

I started by removing the valve cover, timing case, intake/exhaust, ignition coil, spark plugs, wires, dipstick tube, and pretty much every bolt I could take out, except for the oil pan and head bolts. The bolts are currently soaking in vinegar, which has worked wonders on the bolts that held my seats and seatbelts in.

I attempted to clean all these attachments, but I didn't have enough time at home to really get to them. I almost finished cleaning up the spare throttle body in carb dip (left):



I also tapped just about every bolt hole I could- valve cover, timing case, mounts, coil, water pump, thermostat housing, and intake/exhaust:





I know it's been done, but I was thinking about painting the AMC logo onto the block. I'd probably paint the cylinder head black or silver then, and the valve cover I think will be polished aluminum/silver color. The car is going to be all black eventually.

Going back to the Eagle, I once again tried to get the correct level of fluid in the transmission to drive it. Upon adding gas and fuel stabilizer, I got her started up and pulled the dipstick out, only to have the end of it break off in my hand. Ahh! Oh well, I'll get it next time. Also discovered a leak in my heater core, right where the one hose attaches. I'm pretty sure it's not the hose, but I need to take a closer look later.