Vacuum Line Questions. Please Help.

[amc78concord]

I've been researching here on the nest how these pesky vacuum lines work, and I must say I'm utterly confused when I look at my '83 woody wagon...  My friend who I bought it from told me it had a new engine put in, but it sure doesn't run like a new engine...

I've tried to re-run the vacuum lines a few months ago like on my Dad's mint '87 Eagle sedan...only to have it run worse.  Then I did more research back then and found out there were different vacuum setups between the years.  I don't know why I can't take the same AMC motor and run it the same as another one??

Anyways, I had the valve cover replaced a while back ago and after that mess happened, it ran really bad.  That's when it really ran badly.  Before, the car would have a hiccup or two every now and then, but after the valve cover job it ran extremely poor.  That's when I tried to run it like my Dad's '87 to no prevail, but did help it to run a little better.

Now, I want to make it run perfect.  But here are the issues: 1. My EGR Valve is completely missing off of my Eagle.  Do I really need it? 2. The EGR CTO Valve is there, but broken off the manifold.  3. The 1982/1983 Vacuum diagram shows that I should have a 5 prong EGR CTO Valve, my Eagle only has a 2 prong EGR CTO Valve.  I looked at Bird-O-Prey's modified vacuum diagram, and he shows a 5 prong EGR CTO Valve... Is there a way to run a simplified vacuum diagram with only the 2 prong EGR CTO Valve?

I went to my local O'Reilly Auto Parts Store and ordered a new EGR Valve and EGR CTO Valve, but I ordered the 2 prong...Now I realize that I need a 5 Prong CTO Valve for my year of Eagle and Bird-O-Prey's modified diagram... I went back into O'Reilly today and asked if I could get a new 5 prong CTO Valve.  They said they couldn't get them anymore...!  Then I went to Napa, asked them the same thing and they said it costs $160!!!!    But they still couldn't get it anyways... $160??? For a little piece of plastic and copper... wow.  Can someone help me figure out how maybe I can run it with only a 2 prong CTO valve?

Thank you

[Draekon]

Looking at my TSM, the 4 cylinder cars used two separate CTOs.  The EGR CTO was a two prong, and the Spark CTO was a 3 prong.  Maybe you can try to reroute the lines based on a combination between the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder routings.

[ammachine390]

Well this is kinda wierd, the diagram that I found in eaglepedia shows that it should have a 2 prong cto valve.
http://www.amceaglenest.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=1983_6_Cylinder%2C_49_State%2C_High_Altitude%2C_Auto_%26_Manual_Trans%2C_W/WO_AC

The 5 prongs were the dual cto valves. One side controlled vacuum to the EGR, and one side controlled vacuum to the EVAP signal canister purge valve.
Anyway, you can use the 2 prong. However, depending on how yours is set up, you may lose the EVAP purge.

[BenM]

How much of the computer is still in the loop? With a little creative routing, you can replicate most of the emissions functions with some vacuum lines.

Anyway, I'd avoid connecting anything but the air cleaner motors, the ported vacuum advance (to the ported vacuum port on the engine side of the carb), the choke pull-off and the 4WD if the computer is not connected. If it is, just hook up the two vacuum switches on the passenger side. One gets ported, and the other gets manifold vacuum.

Don't worry about the three solenoids on the top of the valve cover, the evap, or the egr until you have the car running smoothly, then tackle them one at a time. Don't connect the heater controls until later, and make sure that the 4WD holds vacuum.

You may have a lot of things connected up right, but there may be leaks in lines and canisters. Make sure you get fresh hoses, and pick up some of the rigid nylon tubing (Like this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nyloseal.php). They sell black tubing under "Help" at the parts store. It gets brittle with heat and age, but doesn't collapse like rubber tubing.