brake drum adjustment problem

[kajsdf]

finally got around to replacing the shoes on my eagle, and i successfully re-assembled everything....problem is, when i go to put the drums back on, the shoes are out too far to get the drum back on...it appears that the cylinder is still pressurized a bunch -- does anyone have any suggestions? 

thanks for any help

[Sunny]

You didn't touch the brake pedal with the drum off did you?..
Sometimes they blow the piston and spray brake fluid everywhere..
Sometimes they just extend the piston, to the point that it won't go back to being seated.. So the brake shoes will stay 'pushed out'.

[kajsdf]

no, i didn't...

the shoes were worn all the way to the frame, would that have anything to do with it?  they were on the car when i got it and i wouldn't be surprised if they were the original shoes (only 87k miles)

[Jurjen]

The wheel cylinder pistons should be easy to push back in.
Use a C-clamp if required. They may be rusted tight.
If so, they should be taken apart and cleaned.
New ones are a good option too, since they cost about $10 each.
Did you turn back the auto-adjuster at the bottom?

[Sunny]

If they were that worn. It's probably what Jurjen said.
They probably were pushed out.. and rusted out.

[BenM]

Open the bleeder when you push them back in, that makes it much easier.

[eaglefreek]

Most likely the adjuster like Jurjen said. You need turn the star wheel to adjust them in. If the wheel cylinders don't go in, you may have a clog in the lines. If that is the case open a bleeder valve and then try to push in the wheel cylinders. If they go in with the bleeder valve open your clog may be in the rubber line going from the line on the chassis to the lines on the rear end.

[kajsdf]

thanks for the suggestions, guys...they all seem likely...the pistons were pretty clean, though. 

the bleeder screw is the skinny one, right?  is it a hex key or torx (it's dark out and i can't go look)

[68AMXGOPAC]

Did you turn the star adjuster back in all the way?? and make sure your emergency brake isn't on.........only 2 things besides the wheel cylinders I can think of.

[kajsdf]

e-brake is off and star wheel is in all the way

[Jurjen]

You will probably have to shock the bleeder nipple free.
I mostly use a 2 pound hamer and punch and hit it sideways twice at a 90 deg angle.
If you can use a hex socket to open the bleeder.

[68AMXGOPAC]

You will probably have to shock the bleeder nipple free.
I mostly use a 2 pound hamer and punch and hit it sideways twice at a 90 deg angle.
If you can use a hex socket to open the bleeder.

You are kidding right ??

[dkoug]

While we are on brakes

82 eagle Wagon, brake pedal going down a bid to much to my liking and new 5000 clicks ago..  I know with some other cars by backing up and applying the brakes it will make adjustment to the brakes (thinking rear brakes).

What is the method on these wonderful Eagles.

My 78 Concord brakes are also new with about 2000 clicks, when applied with normal pressure no squeal but with a slight pressure the pedestrians know I'm in the neighborhood-lol

Solution???



thanks

dkoug

[Jurjen]

You will probably have to shock the bleeder nipple free.
I mostly use a 2 pound hamer and punch and hit it sideways twice at a 90 deg angle.
If you can use a hex socket to open the bleeder.

You are kidding right ??

Nope, I would never make jokes like that.
When I started working on cars, I have broken a few bleeder nipples.
Normally the nipple is rusted tight, so if you hit it twice (near the base as possible) you will shock the thread free.
By the the way this also works on the Philips head screws, you find on many seventies Japanese motorcycles.

[Jurjen]

.... and on the Allen bolts used on the CV-shafts of the Eagle.
I got them out without using a burner or damaging the hex recess.