OK, now WHAT ?

[LaGuardia]

It seems the "fix one thing - another one to fix shows up" thing is happening here.
Today, while I was checking oil level, belts, and ordinary stuff I found out the fan pulley is somehow "loose".

Yes, that's it. It moves if I move the fan. It was OK some months ago, when I replaced all the belts. I'm sure about it.

Now it moves together with the fan, it reminds me of a tooth that's going to fall. (It's gross, I know, but it's the closest example).

Everything is working good on the cooling side, I noticed just because I turned the fan by hand while checking stuff.

How deep am I into trouble ? Anybody been already there ?

[Jurjen]

Not sure what you mean.
You can rotate it when it is cool: it has a thermal coupling.

[JayRamb]

It could be the thermal fan itself. If it moves a little, it's time to replace. They should be tight. If it moves you are OK. Do you notice a high rev noise (fan kicking in) at cold temps?  I got mine off evilbae for $25.00.

[BenM]

Sounds like your water pump bearings are going. If the fan moved without the pulley, I'd suspect the clutch. Anyway, this is something I've done in a driveway many times.

You just need a handful of sockets and wrenches. The hardest part is making sure you get a good pump, I've gotten a couple lately that had core shift so bad I couldn't trust them. Ours should be Aluminum, so avoid any cast steel pumps and you probably won't run into the problem.

The better AMC pumps have 7 or 9 fins, the basic ones are five fins on the back. More fins is more coolant volume. There are high-end aftermarket pumps with a disc tacked on the back of the fins. These flow even more water and can help if you have had any cooling problems, but generally cost twice as much.

When you pull everything out, take the shroud loose first and then a towel over the back of the radiator helps protect it and your knuckles. Then check you fan clutch. If it is smooth and tight, clean it of well and reuse it. If there is any wobble or unevenness when you spin it, it could contribute to wearing out of your pump bearings, so replace it too.

It'll take you a couple of hours if it's your first time as a lot of brackets attach accessories to the pump, just go slowly and keep the bolts straight. Also, make sure you don't over torque the aluminum parts. I have a small 3/8 Craftsman socket wrench that is the biggest thing I'll use working on aluminum parts after cracking a couple.

[LaGuardia]

OK. Sorry I didn't explain better. By "moving" I don't mean "rotating" around its axle (that would be alright).
I think BenM got the point. It seems a bearing issue. Lately bearings don't love me, that's for sure 

Well, new water pump needed, it seems. Suggestions ? Advices ? My only source for "new" parts is RockAuto, shall I go with them ?

But (this is the part that really worries me) do you think I can drive the car anyway ? How long before doing major damage ?

[IowaEagle]

I would agree with Ben.  The water pump would be my first suspect.  And, don't get a rebuilt one, new ones are not that much more money.

[BenM]

It'll go until you start seeing coolant weeping out, but keep an eye on it. I wouldn't be planning any long trips.

It might inconvenience part stores, but find one that will let you look at stock. They interchange with nearly every late 258, and I believe V-belt 4.0 engines too. They usually have 4+ in their computer, so if you don't think one is a good one, have them pull another.

I don't know what good ones RockAuto has, but places like 4WD and Quadratec have them too. Call some place up and talk to them, see if they can recommend one or what their return policy is.

[IowaEagle]

LaGuardia is in Italy, so availability may be limited.

[BenM]

Sorry, I forgot! I can't help with online ordering, though. I hope someone else has experience with that.

It's also possible to rebuild them, but I've never done that myself.

[mudkicker715]

Just make sureto show us correcrt rotation. In other words pic us the set up.

[LaGuardia]

Here we are. Coolant is weeping out. I guess the car is bound to another period of forced rest. I hate that.

Rotation, well, I have no pics at hand now, but the set up is as follows:

three separate belts (no serpentine), standing in front of the car, the fan (and the pulley, and the pump) turns clockwise, and it sucks air through the rad.

I think the fan clutch is stuck, too (if I try to spin the fan by hand, even if everything's cool, it doesn't move until the belt starts to slip), and maybe that's the culprit for the pump failure. I'll replace it too.

RockAuto lists several pumps for an'81 LTD wagon. As far as I can see the main difference is about rotation: serpentine belt equipped cars need counterclockwise,  no serpentine (like mine and most of the others) need clockwise, always standing in front of the car.

Also fan clutches seem to follow the same classification: I think I'll need all "clockwise" stuff.

Am I right ?

(I'm sorry if I seem confused and confusing, but I'm just a little bit frustrated )

[thereverendbill]

I did a search on rock auto and they have 2 pumps that show the impeller.  in the pictures they are the correct pumps.  hope that helps ya out   

[BenM]

Yeah, that's the right direction. That's the most important thing.

Earlier 258s used a different length shaft, but there should be no confusion with anything between 1980-1988. They all should be the exact same water pump as far as fitment is concerned.

[LaGuardia]

Thank you all for the input... parts should be on the way. I ordered a Cardone (new, not reman) pump w/gasket, a new thermal fan clutch (mine was obviously shot, I guess that's why the pump failed), a new rad cap and a new rad peacock (something tells me I'll break the old one, I'd better be prepared).

I'll be draining the circuit and removing lots of parts, so I think it will be great time to install that new thermostat, thermostat housing and rad hoses I had sitting around in a box since last order.

I just hope the parts will be here for friday, so that next weekend I can start (and hopefully finish) this new job. Until then, I'll have to share (again !) my wife's ride and use (again !) the train to get back home from work at night. It's the second time it happens this year...

As usual, I'll have lots of questions, I think I'll have to browse the Forum again to gather the needed info...

Basically, I'll need directions to:

1) safely drain the cooling system with minimal mess (I hate the idea of coolant all over the place, call me a stoopid but I don't want my dog to mess with that stuff);

2) replacing pump and t-stat without breaking stuff (I guess I'll have to deal with frozen bolts AGAIN);

3) properly refilling and purging the system (don't want air bubbles to hang in there).

Any suggestions, tips and advice are welcome, as usual.

I'm writing this without looking at the car, but there's one thing that worries me: I saw that replacing the pump implies removing some brackets, and one of them (it seems) has to do with one of the bolts holding the valve cover. I'd rather not mess with it, as it's still tight and doesn't leak a drop of oil. Do you think I can leave it alone ?

[IowaEagle]

IIRC no valve cover bolts have to be removed.  Make sure the small hole on the t-stat is pointed towards 12:00.  One thing I do, is if you have a flushing tee is to raise the hose it is in higher than the the rest of the cooling system and then open the cap far enough to let any air escape as you finish filling the system.  Did you get a new t-stat housing too?  Not to jinx you, but the like to crack on me if I don't have a spare one lying around.  There are two kinds available, the pot metal type which like to crack and the better cast iron ones which are bit stronger.  I tighten those two fasteners alternately.