An Indication that your Pinion Seal Might be Toast..

[ynwa]

Okay that was a little sarcastic but I do have a problem here.
I expected the outer bearing to pop out with some minor coaxing, however it is well stuck and all of the exploded views that I've looked at show that it should pop out. Also there is an indication that several rollers from the bearing have disintegrated.

Could someone share any helpful ideas before I pull the carrier and smack it out from behind.. It looks like I shouldn't need to do this.  Thanks !!

[Eagleearl]

I was able to cut one out with a die grinder and small grinding bits after trying and failing with a slide hammer.
Seal should pop out and inner bearing slide off shaft. If it will not you may have to tear it apart.

[ynwa]

Hey, thanks for reply. Seal isn't the issue, it's the bearing that I expected to 'slide off the shaft' which is stuck and ain't budging. But thanks I just needed to confirm that it 'should' pop out.

I might ad some heat to the equation.

[ynwa]

I'm out of ideas here. I've got a completely seized pinion bearing that will not budge. I've tried a filed nail head, vise grip, hammer trick but I'm totally lost now. Can you folks share your most frustrating, yet successful pinion bearing extraction stories?! I've not got a dial indicator and I'm really not looking forward to setting up the R+P if I have to pop the bearing from behind... Thank you!!

[rohnk]

This might be a dumb question, but is there a snap ring on the shaft that keeps the seal from sliding out? The only thing I could think of would be to try and drill into the race and screw into it, one on each side. That gives you something to "bite" on  and put a puller on it. I saw that on one of the Sunday car shows on Horsepower TV a couple of years ago. I think they were doing an axle bearing but same concept I guess.

[shanebo]

OUCH!! 

[tougeagle]

Try weaving several lengths of mechanics wire around the roller bearings and back out, use as many of them as you can and tie it strong, then put a prybar or breaker bar through where you tied all the ends together and twist it...

[ynwa]

Hey.. No snap ring. Just complete seizure.. Actually I've looked for a couple days and haven't found a very clear exploded view of the D35. I'm also looking to confirm axle removal as I'm doomed to replace everything. 

weaved some wire through, suspended by weight of the entire rear end and still no movement. Intermixed with smashing of various drifting 'medium' hehe... she's stuck proper!!
Really not looking forward to resetting the rear (only ever done one in mech school way back when).... 

[tougeagle]

you could try heating the diff casing in the bearing area, on the outside, with a small mapp gas or propane torch to see if that will loosen it. Always works for stuck suspension components when an air hammer/4lb sledge isn't enough.

[mudkicker715]

Did you remove the fatastic 4 bolts on the other side of the brake pad holder thing.

[BenM]

Along with heating the outside, I've used cans of compressed air, upside-down, to apply a nice frost to the wedged in part. Usually in a Heat >> Penetrating Oil >> Freeze  cycle. Between the oil and the mechanical act of heating and cooling I've gotten some pretty stuck  parts free.

The other thing I've done is carefully work on the sacrificial part with a Dremel bit or a small drill bit. Sometimes you can relieve enough stress to allow the stuck part to flex.

The worst one was getting a halfshaft off of a parts car to return as a core so I could take my Eagle down to get the halfshaft. It was much easier though, since both the nut and the shaft were sacrificial and I could ruin the thread with the drill. Two runs with a wire bit down between the nut and bolt and it came off easy! I definitely didn't have a nut cracker that big.

[LaGuardia]

It somehow reminds me of my adventures with the broken rear shaft and the "rounded bolt" front hub...

From personal experience, I can say that along with heating - beating - cooling - oiling, a good amount of swearing helps, too.

[68AMXGOPAC]

I guess with looking at it again.My McGyver skills set in and - I would notch that inner race enough to get the rollers out and the just deal with the inner and outer race of the bearing seperatly.You should be able to cut them through and pop them out.Any nicks on the inner surface of the boss shouldn't be a big issue as the seal will keep the fluid in and it runs through the bearing anyways.Just make sure it is smooth enough to accept the new bearing with no issues........just thinking back on how I got the axle bearing out of the 52 Molines I did last summer , and only my opinion.The axle itself was probably bigger in diameter than that bearing itself.On the other side I had to have a 40 ton press "pop" out the axle from the houseing.That made quite the "POP" !!

[ynwa]

Did you remove the fatastic 4 bolts on the other side of the brake pad holder thing.

Heh, I did (one side) but then decided I should keep trying to pop the bearing. Setting up the Diff again will be a drag.

you could try heating the diff casing in the bearing area, on the outside, with a small mapp gas or propane torch to see if that will loosen it. Always works for stuck suspension components when an air hammer/4lb sledge isn't enough.

Yep, had the propane going. Set wire loops around bearings to Bar supported by Jacks holding rear end in the air. Nothing. No budge. Not a single MM of movement. Heated to smoking gear oil and drifting heavy ball peen onto cedar 2x6.. nada.

Along with heating the outside, I've used cans of compressed air, upside-down, to apply a nice frost to the wedged in part. Usually in a Heat >> Penetrating Oil >> Freeze  cycle. Between the oil and the mechanical act of heating and cooling I've gotten some pretty stuck  parts free.

The other thing I've done is carefully work on the sacrificial part with a Dremel bit or a small drill bit. Sometimes you can relieve enough stress to allow the stuck part to flex.

The worst one was getting a halfshaft off of a parts car to return as a core so I could take my Eagle down to get the halfshaft. It was much easier though, since both the nut and the shaft were sacrificial and I could ruin the thread with the drill. Two runs with a wire bit down between the nut and bolt and it came off easy! I definitely didn't have a nut cracker that big.

I like the upside down compressed air trick. Also like the word 'Sacrificial'.. haha.. I suspect this will be the route with some overpriced drill bits and a dreml...

Cheers for the help!

[ynwa]

@68AMXGOPAC - hah, nice.. I like this route as well.. "Sacrificial Bearing"