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  • November 24, 2024, 09:24:41 AM

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Author Topic: Discussion of built driveline  (Read 101507 times)

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Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #90 on: December 20, 2012, 11:30:06 AM »
Yeah, the GM controls would be tunable.

I'd need a $300 EPROM emulator, but that's about it... The software's not very expensive.

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #91 on: December 23, 2012, 08:20:46 AM »
I blasted and painted an Eagle oil pan Friday night... it needs another coat, though.

I picked up the 4.0 yesterday, but haven't snapped any pics. It's in the trailer under a tarp right now... Should be able to get it into the garage next weekend.

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #92 on: December 25, 2012, 10:01:30 AM »
Are there any reinforcements for the 4.0 oil pan side rails available?

GM made them for later small block Chevies... I figured that if there's any other engine on the planet that would have such a thing available, it would be the 4.0.

Edit: Like these:


« Last Edit: December 26, 2012, 01:21:02 PM by eaglefreek »

Offline captspillane

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #93 on: December 26, 2012, 12:40:30 PM »
Reinformcement rails? Why would you need them?

Felpro makes a $40 oil pan gasket that has metal reinforcement inside of rubber. It's called "Permadry." It is a one piece design, so both sides and the connecting pieces across the front timing cover are all intergrated into one reusable, amazing gasket. I love them. I only use RTV on one side to seal them to the oil pan, then a dab of RTV at each corner. They work for a long time and never need to be replaced if you take the pan off.

They also make a Permadry timing cover gasket that works better than anything else out there. The metal reinforcement keeps the bolts from squeezing out the rubber, keeping a more even tightness across the whole gasket surface. Unfortunately you need a late '87 to '90 258 head or a 4.0 head to have the right bolt pattern to use the Permadry valve cover gasket.
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #94 on: December 26, 2012, 02:47:29 PM »
The flange on the pan I have is a little bit bent... I can straighten the flange, but wanted some assurance I wouldn't end up chasing my tail in the form of an oil pan leak.

I initially bought the 4 piece cork gasket, but I've read that one doesn't work worth a :censored:. I've read about the '95+ Cherokee gasket. Is that the same as the Permadry?

I have a 4.0, so it sounds like I can use the Permadry timing cover gasket as well. The engine might already have one as it was recently rebuilt.

2nd coat of paint on the pan came out great. I'll be moving the 4.0 around to the garage as well as blasting and painting the 3.54 front diff next weekend.

Offline captspillane

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #95 on: December 26, 2012, 09:00:19 PM »
Rockauto lists it under 82 AMC Eagle as part #OS34308R for $16. The Permadry plus valve cover gasket is also listed for a '92 XJ as part # VS50522T for $30. That's cheaper than when I last bought a set. Most places sell them for $40. Of course with Rockauto you pay for shipping too. If you get your old pan straight enough to look good against a ruler or straight edge, I would trust this gasket to hold up. The cork four piece ones are about $6 and they're junk in comparison.
Currently Inspected and Insured as of Jan 2013:
-1985 Eagle Station Wagon 258 T5 Stickshift
-1980 Eagle Station Wagon 258 Auto Fuel-injected with GM TBI

Minor Repairs Underway:
-1982 Eagle SX4 258 T5
-1981 Kammback 2.5L Iron Duke T5

Restoration Efforts Near Completion:
-1982 SX4- 401 NV3550
-1983 SX4- 4.5 MPI NSG370 (6 Speed)

Restoration Efforts Underway:
-1985 SW- 4.0 MPI AX15
-1982 SX4- 4.0 AW4
-1981 SX4- SD33T NV4500 (Turbodiesel 5 speed)

Future Rescue Efforts- '85 Maroon SW, '87 Limited SW, '84 Limited SW, '87 4 door Sedan, '81 2 door Sedan, '88 White SW, '77 4 door Hornet, '74 2 door Hornet, '79 Spirit AMX, '81 Kammback.

RIP- Red '81 SX4, '84 4dr Sedan, '84 SW, '81 SW, '80 Spirit, '83 SW, '83 4dr Sedan

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #96 on: January 02, 2013, 05:07:43 PM »
So I just called a ChryCo stealership and was quoted the following:

Code: [Select]
Desc                PN      QTY Price
Flywheel bolt       3170524 6   $ 7.70
Pressure Plate Bolt 6035626 6   $ 6.02
Bellhousing Bolt    6503299 9   $ 7.70
Pilot bearing                   $31.27

He also told me that the same part number was listed for all bellhousing bolts, which I don't think is the case.

Does anyone have the specs for these bolts?
Is there a place I can look the info up? For example, there are GM and BMW parts catalogs online from 3rd party sources, which let me look up parts and descriptions... anything like that out there for Chrysler/Jeep?

Did the bellhousing bolts change between '91 and '00? My block uses 3/8" bolts at the top locations and 7/16" bolts at the side locations, which obviously would not carry the same part number.

Edit: Grrr... Why don't code tags use a fixed width font on this forum?

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #97 on: January 06, 2013, 02:39:58 PM »
Bolts are taken care of... CarQuest had a Mr. Gasket kit for the flywheel and clutch bolts. I'll just use hardware store bolts for the bellhousing.


They also make a Permadry timing cover gasket that works better than anything else out there. The metal reinforcement keeps the bolts from squeezing out the rubber, keeping a more even tightness across the whole gasket surface. Unfortunately you need a late '87 to '90 258 head or a 4.0 head to have the right bolt pattern to use the Permadry valve cover gasket.

Did you mean valve cover or timing cover?

Is TCS45117 the correct number for the Permadry timing cover gasket? The description says that it must be used with OS34408R.

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #98 on: January 07, 2013, 09:49:54 AM »
Still haven't taken any pics of the 4.0, but got the front diff bead blasted and painted this weekend, along with the engine/diff mount brackets. The pinion snout bracket will need to be cut & welded to clear a rib on the side of the 4.0 block that isn't present on the 258 block.

Offline mudkicker715

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #99 on: January 07, 2013, 11:39:44 AM »
Most grind the rib on the block



Manitowoc WI

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #100 on: January 07, 2013, 01:22:40 PM »
I'm fine with updating the bracket.

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #101 on: January 08, 2013, 12:19:45 PM »
Are there Perma-Dry gaskets for the diff covers?

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #102 on: January 12, 2013, 11:13:54 PM »
Engine:



Front diff, pre-bead blasting


Bead blasted


Diff and brackets painted


Comparison of Eagle and Jeep engine mount brackets.
Obviously, the Jeep brackets only mount the engine and don't have also to carry the front diff.


Comparison of Jeep and Eagle oil pickup tubes:


Frustrating... The Eagle oil pump pickup is fully seated in the Jeep oil pump, but the hole in the securing strap does not line up.
Do I need an Eagle oil pump in addition to the pickup?

Offline carnuck

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #103 on: January 13, 2013, 04:05:06 PM »
I would just notch the opening to fit the pump, although it looks like the pickup MAY have been bent to that position because I had zero trouble with this before except when I rolled the motor over onto the pickup before removing.
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: Discussion of built driveline
« Reply #104 on: January 14, 2013, 10:16:10 AM »
It doesn't *LOOK* bent, and my dad says he was careful when removing it from the 258 pump...

BUT, the strap doesn't fit and it hits the pan when I try to drop the pan over it. The bottom of the pickup is 8 1/2" from the pan rail on the block and the pan itself is 8 3/8" deep.

I guess the only conclusion to draw--especially since no one else has had this problem--is that it got bent somehow... I guess I'll just bend it back until it works, but I won't be able to work on it again until this weekend.

 

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