Dangit Birdman, you know my autistic feelings about this car. Taking the computer out isn't illegal around here but my OCD would keep me up at night!
It's a little different for later model Eagles but for the 82 model year the computer has no direct control of the spark timing. It requires the use of a three connector "Yellow grommet" Duraspark II module. The extra connector permitting for electronic spark retard. It cannot advance timing beyond the base timing. This is why stock Eagles have such advanced base timing.
For the '82 Eagle when the CTS and the TAC switches say the coolant and air cleaner temperature is cold the computer electronically leaves the timing alone so for cold running it's "more advanced than normal" and the only thing that can change it is the vacuum and mechanical advance. In that regard this means it can still
technically manipulate timing indirectly using the Sol-Vac to bump the idle speed but that's it. It has three levels of idle speed to play with and they are not adjustable once set to spec.
Once the two switches satisfy the CeC retards spark timing and adjusts up and down from there as it needs to. This is why an Eagle with disconnected or faulty temperature switches (or you replace the uncommon yellow grommet with a more common two connector blue grommet module and leave the computer disconnected) can knock so badly on hot days. It doesn't retard the spark timing for the hot engine and acts like its over-advanced.
That I have seen in the 84 and later Eagles I have salvaged parts from the computer intercepts the TACH going to the ignition module directly and plays with spark timing from there, presumably because the CeC now runs double duty for both engine management and the knock sensor, so I cannot say for certain how that later system works. Amusingly if you buy a Carter Engine Knock Eliminator it does the exact same thing and intercepts the TACH before reaching the Duraspark.
Among the countless hours I've been under this hood all the related systems have been tested and are known good. Since the problem is only happening with the engine cold we can immediately rule out computer intervention.
Anyways I inspected the cap and rotor and found them to be fouled. That would certainly cause the peculiar cold miss on a cylinder that had good compression.