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  • December 21, 2024, 09:10:00 AM

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Recent Posts

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1
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by SpectreMkVIII on Yesterday at 08:00:26 PM »
And undo all of my hard (not at all) work so far? Kidding, of course. I can do without the EGR stuff, I'm sure it'll be fine.Thanks everyone for the help so far!
2
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by 89 MJ on Yesterday at 07:50:31 PM »
I'm thinking that I would move the EGR vacuum port to the intake manifold (actually I'd get rid of the EGR, but you might want or need to keep the EGR) and plug the vacuum advance vacuum line to the spot on the carb.
3
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by SpectreMkVIII on Yesterday at 07:44:19 PM »
So, PO put a Holley 2300 on this thing, list number R1929-S. This thing came off of a 50-60s Ford V8 and has a grand total of 2 vacuum ports on it, the lower one connected to the PCV and the other is what I connected to the EGR loop. Should I tee off the EGR line and hook in the advance to it?
4
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by SpectreMkVIII on Yesterday at 06:34:20 PM »
Got it, I'll see what I can find. My 2300 doesn't seem to have that many vacuum ports on it
5
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by 89 MJ on Yesterday at 06:08:13 PM »
Quote from: SpectreMkVIII on Yesterday at 05:12:43 PM
I read through the axle lock process, seems simple enough. Unfortunately it will have to wait since I just got some snow up where I am so I'll have to wait for it to settle down a bit before I decide to slide under the car and bash my knuckles against cold metal. That leaves the distributor advance, which no longer has a home. Thoughts?
That will have to be plugged in on the carburetor somewhere above the throttle blades. Anywhere below the throttle blades will not have vacuum at WOT.
6
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by SpectreMkVIII on Yesterday at 05:12:43 PM »
I read through the axle lock process, seems simple enough. Unfortunately it will have to wait since I just got some snow up where I am so I'll have to wait for it to settle down a bit before I decide to slide under the car and bash my knuckles against cold metal. That leaves the distributor advance, which no longer has a home. Thoughts?
7
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: I can't find/purchase Front Springs
« Last post by Ludworks on Yesterday at 02:29:12 PM »
Okay boys. I dug out and calibrated the micrometer. Here's the results.

Spring 1 measurements: 0.653-0.665  (Assumed 0.660)   Weight 10.120lbs   Height ~15"
Spring 2 measurements: 0.634-0.643  (Assumed 0.640)   Weight 9.625lbs     Height ~14 7/8"
Dimensions are hard to take due to wire distortion/helix so I've provided a range of measurements and assumed nominal dimensions.

There is a slight height disparity that I didn't catch before due to the surface the springs were resting on. It's may be due to sag, tolerance, or design. 

I was wrong before. I made the mistake of using digital calipers and assuming the springs were the same. I apologize. Vangremlin is absolutely right, the springs are side-specific. There does not seem to be any difference in shape. Unfortunately I've had mine out for a while and I can't say for sure which spring goes to which side. I would assume the larger spring is the passenger side due to the engine offset.

Evenprime there's no reason a good spring shop can't remake them. I'd take them in and at least see what they say
8
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by vangremlin on Yesterday at 11:30:20 AM »
Quote from: SpectreMkVIII on December 19, 2024, 08:32:00 PM
Permanent 4WD does sound like the simpler and more practical option, I would be interested in giving it a shot. What does it entail? Anything special?

Shifting the transfer case is easy, you just use a 9/16 or 5/8 wrench (I can't remember which) and using the shift lever on the case move it forward into 4WD.  You can use some bailing wiring or zip ties to hold it there so it doesn't slip into false neutral. 

For the front axle, you can go the more permanent route and open up the little case on the passenger side axle and slip a hose clamp over the shaft inside to hold it engaged.  Here is a how to:

https://amceaglesden.com/guide/Front_Axle_Lock

Or I think you could run a vacuum hose directly to just to the front axle shifter and I think that should lock the front axle so it's 4WD capable.

Sorry if I'm not very good with the terminology and I may not be totally correct on some minor details but those are the basics.  If I have any wrong Den members, please help me out!

Good luck!
9
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: I can't find/purchase Front Springs
« Last post by vangremlin on Yesterday at 11:20:38 AM »
I believe the OEM springs are different from side to side, to compensate for the fact that the engine is slightly off center.  How much of a difference it makes it real life, I don't know. 
10
Under the Hood & HVAC / Re: Redo Vacuum Lines From Scratch?
« Last post by MIPS on Yesterday at 12:14:58 AM »
I find with mine there's the additional driveline noise but also against the numbers that running with/without 4WD full-time doesn't notably affect MPG the engine needs a bit more throttle to accelerate.

Eagles with the front axle disconnect have a bit more vacuum routing than later models with just the actuator at the transfer case. Vacuum is ONLY needed to shift in/out and doesn't need to be present to keep it engaged/disengaged.
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